CheckItOut

Try this link, it tells about moisture in concrete and how to test for it. A normal pin meter will not give you a proper reading. You need to drill a hole and place a probe in the hole for a proper reading, and the meter needs to be calibrated or have a concrete setting. http://www.concreteconstruction.net/ind ... eID=259135 Thanks

Anyone know what a pin moisture meter would read on a "normal" concrete floor? Normal meaning fully cured. This is a basement and house has been there a little over a year. I have read conflicting info on drying times for slabs from 3 months to 2 years.

Flow at the spigot seemed constant. Yes, a diverter and in the spigot. Yes, a tub.

Just curious is anyone knows what would cause the flow of water at a shower head to occasionally pulse or skip. It would flow, then every so often, there would be a pause, then flow would go back to normal. The pause was very short - maybe 1/4 of a second. All other plumbing functioned fine.

Some builders here are starting to install a weep screed in the cultured stone (wood framed wall behind stone). This house (new const) has one but they buried it in mortar. Better than nothing at all. Click to Enlarge 57.79 KB

I report it either way - it is a safety concern to me. The reason I was trying to figure out if it was "required" is to help the buyer. The seller will likely say no to this repair. If the buyer has something that says it is required, then that will help tremendously. Actually, the rehab code may apply to residential. It is just worded funny b/c the cover letter talks about houses but the code only references commercial codes (I did not read the whole thing but our numbering system is in the 1000's for commercial and that is throughout the rehab code. It also says "building code" vs residential building code.). Just a little unclear but I doubt anyone will figure that out when I tell them to reference the rehab info if they ask. Thanks for your comments.

That is the way it works here. Nothing written of course. Our commercial rehab code: "Where 50 percent or more of a handrail or guardrail on a flight or on a level is replaced, then this shall be considered a complete replacement and shall comply with the referenced sections of the building code. The repair or replacement of less than 50 percent of a handrail or guardrail shall be permitted to match the existing handrail or guardrail." I have not found where this applies to residential.

If not required I can tell folks that I suggest they make it safer. Required, I say a repair is needed. Difference is buyer pays or seller does.

Let's say you have a 1980 house and it originally came with horizontal rails to keep folks from falling through that had about 10" spacing between them. Now you replace all of the railing. Do you have to meet the current 4" spacing requirement? Typically if 50% or more of one thing is replaced, you have to update it to current standards. I say "thing" b/c I am trying to figure out if this is a system (ie, the whole deck), or just a component (rails). So, if you replace all of the railing and all of the decking planks that would be 50% or more of the system and then you would need to meet current standards. Right/wrong?

In our area, we need R-30 in attics which is about 8.3" of cellulose. I am trying to get your opinions on whether or not you think that material keeps settling over time. I know it will but for how long and how low will it go in normal situations (ie, no huge amounts of moisture)? For example, in a house that is say, 5 - 10 years old, I typically only find about 5-7". In houses that are 20 years, it is even thinner (generally). A manufacturer (Cacoon) states that it will settle 1" after installation and that it needs to be installed at 9.3" for an R-30. How many new houses do you see with 9.3"? My thinking is that paper that is continually exposed to moisture will continue to absorb it (and more readily than fiberglass) and will continue to get heavy and sink. And I am in NC where we have pretty humid months. With the loss of "height" comes loss of R-value. If correct my theory tells me the R-value will diminish over time and will continue to until some level of max compression is reached. ?

Time to renew so I am shopping and wanted to get your opinions on the two. Here is what I have found: Occurrence Advantages: Fixed Cost. Coverage for a policy period is fixed. You need not worry that on renewal your carrier might not be writing Home Inspectors any more or offered a price you cannot afford. Long-term Protection. Specific policy periods will provide protection into the future. Mobility. The occurrence policy makes it easier to change insurance companies without additional costs or potential gaps in coverage. Peace of Mind. If you have an occurrence policy and you need to cancel it, you forget to make a payment and are canceled, your insurance company decides not to renew you, or they decide not to write home inspectors any more you need not worry - you are still covered for 4 more years for inspections performed while the policy was in force. Disadvantages: Cost. Initially more expensive than a claims-made policy. CLAIMS-MADE COVERAGE Advantages: Cost. Initially less expensive than an occurrence policy. Disadvantages: Future Costs. Should the policy be discontinued by you or your insurance company you will need to buy “extended reporting coverageâ€

My thoughts are the same regarding the lack of definative answers - not much point in measuring. But, I thought I'd see what you guys thought since we are in different areas of the county. These buyers were from Jersey I think and they made it sound like it was a common measurement.

Got an email from a client asking if I could measure the strength of electromagnetic fields from power lines. If I could, I don't even know if there is a proposed standard or number to go by. I know there are studies that show increased risk of leukemia living near these but for every study showing a hazard, seems like there is another saying the studies are flawed. Who knows. Any of you guys actually measure emissions from these things?

Les, I am using canisters now. Why have you had twenty plus units? Do you perform so many tests at one time you need so many or does the equipment just not last long? And yes, the e-perm reader requires an annual calibration. About the same fee as the Sun calibration fee. I do like the hourly reporting of the Sun, like the accuracy of the e-perm and the fact that one is only leaving inexpensive equipment on site. Like I said, they are two different systems. Just trying to weigh them and there is some good info here.

I realize they are two different types of devices and reporting options but just curious to hear from folks if they've used both and which they prefer and why. I would need four units to when all is said and done, the cost is about the same. Thanks guys.

[ 2006 IRC G2427.6.4 (503.6.4) Gas vent termination. A gas vent shall terminate in accordance with one of the following: 1. Gas vents that are 12 inches (305 mm) or less in size and located not less than 8 feet (2438 mm) from a vertical wall or similar obstruction shall terminate above the roof in accordance with Figure G2427.6.4. 2. Gas vents that are over 12 inches (305 mm) in size or are located less than 8 feet (2438 mm) from a vertical wall or similar obstruction shall terminate not less than 2 feet (610 mm) above the highest point where they pass through the roof and not less than 2 feet (610 mm) above any portion of a building within 10 feet (3048 mm) horizontally. Tim Thanks Tim, that's the one.

I can't seem to find my resource but I think the gas water heater vent needs to be at least two feet above any house wall within 10' horizontally. Does that sound right? Here is a pic from a new house I inspected today. No gable vent right next to it... that would be funny though. Click to Enlarge 24.84 KB

I see that occasionally as a repair for cracked/split neoprene collars. Many of them fail before 12 years. Click to Enlarge 9.77 KB Could be taller and ABS.

Looks like part of a boot is on top of a full boot. 12 yr old house with zero stains on the roof sheathing as visible in the attic around vent pipe. Due to the pitch, I could not physically get to it. Seen anything like this? Click to Enlarge 52.71 KB

Doing my usual check of the water heater elements and noted the settings on both thermostats to be 150 (water temp at kit sink was only 90.) I cut the top thermostat off (90) and checked the voltage at the bottom and got 75. Then checked the top one and got normal voltage with it in the off position - always on. Let the unit sit for a while then came back and same deal. I never heard the normal clicking on and off when adjusting the thermostats. Sound like a thermostat issue? Will be written up to repair but I am curious.

Thankfully I live in the South where we don't have to be too concerned with sissy PC-ness. We still call it the mail man, police man, etc. Not police person.

No steps. Guess its just one of those common sense things that I would install. Personally, I use my man door on the garage more than any other door including my front door on my house.

Inspected a house completed this year and noticed that the attached garage had an overhead light and a switch at the man door going into the house but no switch at the man door at the side entry. I could not find anything in the code stating that a switch was required at the man door. Anyone know of a requirement for a swith here?

Found a dishwasher with a drain hose that went out through the floor, into the crawl space where it dipped down about 3' below the floor, then up again through the floor under the kitchen sink then attached to the drain. I'd guess the hose to be a good 20' long. I don't know that this is a problem but thought I'd throw it out there just in case. I'd think the pump may be worked a little harder due to the distance.

I am possibly interested in an HP b/c I also get a nice discount. Did you buy one and if so which model?