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CheckItOut

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Everything posted by CheckItOut

  1. Thanks. Good enough. I kind of like the big flash myself but it may scare some folks.
  2. I don't know if there is a spec somewhere but I flipped the switch on the wall and was writing a few things down and I looked at the FP and no flame. I could hear the gas pretty strong and just as I went to turn the swithch off, poof! Big burst of flame, then normal fire. I cut it off, waited a little and thought I'd count how long before flames were visible... got to 10 then shut the switch off before a fire started. I would think it should start nearly right away but is there a spec somewhere so that I know in the future?
  3. No, it's not ok. It should be in conduit or some other sort of enclosure that provides physical protection from 18" below the surface of the ground to 8' above the surface of the ground. Ref: 300.5(D)(1). - Jim Katen, Oregon Thank you Jim
  4. Yes, it will get wet. I was using the term Romex but it could be and hopefully is UF. I know it can be burried underground but laying on top of the ground? It is under a deck where small aminals could fest on it.
  5. House today had a very low deck. So low I could not even begin to fit under there. I saw romex running from the house, on the dirt, over to... the hot tub. Is it okay to attach the wire to the deck structure with staples or is outside wire required to be run in conduit? If it were mine, I'd want conduit.
  6. House was built in 78 and has had a new roof installed in the last few years. I noticed that the roof has no drip edge installed. Does anyone know if drip edges were not installed in the 70s? Just trying to decide if I need to point it out or not. Thanks!
  7. I was pretty sure that if a circular hole was punched out in the interior of a breaker box but with no wire, the hole should be plugged. I can't find anything on this in my HI books though (I do not have electrical code books). House built in mid 80s. Thanks!
  8. All of the joints in the crawlspace looked like this or worse. Next time I'll try twisting one and see what happens.... I'll write it up as discovering a leak.
  9. I was told that heavy corrosion around copper pipe fittings was a sign of a future leak. Maybe due to seepage around fitting(?). It this right? Image Insert: 244.52 KB
  10. That is what I was thinking as well. Interestingly, around here they used to paint bridges but stopped several years ago. Now they are all an ugly rust color. Many eons ago they used to paint them with really cool orange lead paint - stuff weighed 35 lbs per gallon.
  11. I've always been told that lintels should be painted; if not they will rust and cause uplift. But the part that needs painting is buried or covered with brick and mortar and thus can't be painted after installation. So, is the idea then to paint the exposed parts so that rust will not begin there and spread elsewhere? If buried sections were painted real well to begin with I don't think the rust would spread. But if the burried sections were not painted I guess the rust could migrate to under the mortar(?). What do you think?
  12. Thanks Bob. The pullout looks identical to that one I saw but this one had more conventional breakers.
  13. Forgot to mention it is an ITE. You likely already knew that.
  14. Is a large pull block considered a main disconnect? This 1962 house had one panel and it did not have a throw for disconnect. I'm guessing that if you pull this there would be an opening ripe for fingers to get shocked. Would post a photo but something keeps telling me to log in.
  15. Kevin, The hangers you are referring to are like the "do not disturb" hangers on hotel doors? Do you put them on mail boxes? When I click the link to the HMI site, I see nothing but a colored box. Thanks
  16. Thanks guys. On his web site he mentions that something cannot be transferred to newer software versions when updates occur. How difficult is it to re-enter whatever this is that can't be transferred? From his site: "The bad news is there is no way to save your lists of dialog box items..."
  17. Still demo'ing inspection software and wanted to know how folks liked IR. Thanks!
  18. Thanks Scott. Got a quote from FREA as well but it is about $1K higher but the deduct is $1K as opposed to $2.5K.
  19. I've received a bunch of quotes and Lexington is pretty much right in the middle with price vs. deductible (I'd probably choose the $2,500 deduct which will run $2,565 for the first year with $250,000/$500,000 plus $400 for general liability). Anyone have experience with them? Any other recommendations would be okay too. Thank you!
  20. That is actually a decent idea... Thanks
  21. You kill me! I've read a bunch of posts and your vast expanse of vocabulary is impressive and humorous.
  22. I'm just starting my business and need something to give out to Realtors when I make an initial office presentation to the whole group. I thought a coffee mug with my biz info on it would be good b/c those sit on desks, Realtors drink coffee (or something like most people) and they generally do not get thrown away too quickly. Looking for something inexpensive like these mugs at $2 each. Once I return to their offices for a follow up and to drop off cards / flyers, I'd leave something cheap like a pen. What do you guys think?
  23. Saw someone mention using a bond as opposed to E&O for beginner inspectors due to the low cost of a bond vs. high insurance. I have investigated several E&O plans and rates vary from $2,500 to $3,900 - deductible is the big factor in price ($5K vs $1K). Anyway, can someone tell me a little more about using a bond for coverage? Thanks!
  24. Thanks for the input. I'll stick with PDF and mail if requested.
  25. I could not find a better place to post this so... Wondered how folks accept credit card payments for inspections. I could easily use paypal linked to my site but really want to know how it is done in person. With my former business, I'd use a manual imprinter, then call in the card. A time-consuming and not so professional method. The only other option I know of is to use an electronic scanner that will then upload the CC info to my payment processor. This looks like what you see in a store and I would power it via my inverter in my car. I am leaning toward this method for when I meet a client in person to accept funds. How do others accept CCs?
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