inspect4u

Les, You meant "inspected and confirmed", didn't you? Mike M

If that's just one corner, What does the rest of the house look like???? It's just amazing how things can deteriorate in 5 months! Mike M

FirstyLast, As long as the ceilings of the living areas in the attic have blown-in or batt insulation, the exterior and some interior walls would require no insulation, as you would only be insulating the attic. The interior walls that back up to habital areas would require insulation and this is why you are seeing batt insulation on those walls. My concern here is fireblocking. I'm assuming you're saying that when you look below the batt insulation you are seeing blown-in (loose fill) insulation. The wall is required to be fireblocked at the attic level. This can be done with wood (usually 2x4's), or batt insulation or other approved materials securely attached in place. The problem with loose fill insulation is that it tends to settle over time and leaves a void. However, loose fill can be used if it has been specifically tested for this purpose and demonstrates the ability to remain in place and to retard the spread of fire and hot gases. Like Mike said, as long as the "Hardi-plank" is properly secured, I see nothing wrong with that installation. [] Mike, your first line second paragraph, this may be but look at the subject title.[]

I don't know, I'm still voting for a sheet of 4x8 T-111 siding. I have seen the grooved sections open up like that giving the impression of a joint. Mike M

Thanks, Mike I understand a little better now. So, basically you're saying the ground will usually absorb the water before it becomes a problem. I'm used to the Texas blackland (clay). Like we say, "You stick with it during the summer and it will stick with you during the winter." Mike M

Looks like T-111 siding. It's a fir wood product, like Richard suggested. Mike M

I can't really tell what kind of material it is. Am I looking at debri or cobwebs, or is that fibers in the material? Irregardless, like Mike said, water is going to get behind it. As I said earlier, we don't have any basements around here, but if that window well is below grade how is it suppose to drain??? Are the landscape timbers on all three sides, or is the front open? Guess I'm just not getting the whole picture. Mike M

That's a whole different ballgame, we don't see any basements around these parts. But I do know with the average rainfall we get, that's gotta leak, as Richard stated. Mike M

Kurt, If you want a reference, go to IRC R309.1.1. It deals with duct penetration and states there shall be no openings into the garage. I take that to mean, ceiling, wall, or floors. Mike M

Also, you say the siding stops a foot above the window. Do you mean it ends at the soffitt with an eave overhang, or does some other material pick up from there? Mike M

Jodil, Yes, the window should be trimmed out. Around here, it is usually a 1x2 nailed and caulked around the frame. Also, is that wood to ground contact? Siding should have a six inch clearance to soil. Mike M

Chris, Brian I agree. That just says we are not required to. I do make note in my reports that if an item is at or close to its life expectancy (or as not been properly maintained) that it has limited life left. I say limited life because I have no way of knowing if it will last one more month, year, etc.,and I make sure the buyer understands this when I go over the report with him (her) orally. Mike M

Hi Jodil, This is from the Texas Standards of Practice that governs us: (2) The inspector shall: (A) inspect items, parts, systems, components and conditions which are present and visible at the time of the inspection, but the inspector is not required to determine or estimate the remaining life expectancy or future performance of any inspected item, part, system or component; Mike M

Thanks, Now why didn't I think of payne.com?[:-banghea Mike M

Thanks, Jim. I tried under Carrier and still couldn't locate instructions. Mike M

Mike, I have googled every search term I can think of for Payne's installlation instructions and can't find anything. Any ideas? Thanks, Mike M

Thanks guys, I'll advise the new buyer of the possible consequences. No, I'm not sure who installed the unit, I know the homeowners just replaced the gas water heater and I won't even go into all that's wrong with that installation. It is in a closet just in front of the furnace, however, it has its own upper and lower combustion air and exhaust vent, and has a door installed. The dryer is electric. As far the cat, well, he's on his own! [xx(] Mike M

Erby, Ok, let me try to understand this. Then the dryer could affect the burning operation of the furnace? I know most of the heat and humidity go out the vent, but not all, and if the unit is in a/c mode wouldn't the return be pulling the heat in, given the close vicinity? It's my understanding that the whole purpose of return air is so that the unit is recirculating warmer or cooler air, depending on mode set on, so that it doesn't have to work so hard all of the time cooling or heating the inside air. Myself, I'm in the learning mode, so am I in the ballpark or way out in left field? Mike meant the installer may have manufactured his own list in lieu of the manufacturer's listing. I think??? "You're never too old to learn, or to un-learn." Mike M

Thanks Mike, I'll check into the manufacturer's spec on it being located in a utility room. It is a gas Payne unit. I hadn't thought about the dryer which is located right across from the unit within five feet and I know the heat and humidity from the dryer has to play havoc on the return air. Mike M

Approximately thirty feet, the kitchen is across the hall from the utility room and the thermostat is located on the other side of the kitchen in an open hall way. Is this an ok install? Mike M

On today's inspection, I found the a/c-heat unit sitting on an open raised platform in the utility room. This is a new installation and the old unit had been located in the attic. There is no door installed on the utility room. My question is "Can this unit get adequate return air, being in the open like this?" The unit draws the return air from the bottom and there is a filter in place. I have seen them on raised platforms in a hall closet with the return air in the same manner, however, the plenum was enclosed with an outside grill. Mike M Image Insert: 114.34 KB

I agree with Mike, from the picture it looks like the top of the lintel is even with the top of the brick and not being supported. The lintel looks like it is sagging a little also. Mike M

Hi, long time listener, first time caller-so to speak. Jim's right. It's masonite (or hardboard) lap siding and very common in Texas. However, you won't usually find the clip at the butt joints, they're just butted together. It should be installed at least six inches above grade, but alot of the time it is ground level. Then it is crap, it moisture rots quickly and termites love it. It comes with a smooth face or textured face as pictured. Mike M