sepefrio

I've seen single receptacles GFCI's that also have a switch, but not just a single GFCI outlet period. Using the test button, when pressed it buzzed and tripped (and also reset). But my tester would not make it trip at this outlet nor at the other receptacle in the other bathroom that shares this circuit (not a GFCI outlet). I've looked on the web for a similar one but no luck. Anyone have any experience with this type. Anything special or just a broken/mis-wired GFCI receptacle? Click to Enlarge 8.34Â KB

This stuff is just laid around, not sealed and there is plenty of air on top of and under it. Its 'installed" just like you install your towel at the beach, lol. The main reason I say beach towel, is that it also looks like quite a few sea gulls paid it a visit. Yes I found at least 5 leaks in this section of roof alone, but there had to be a couple hundred, quarter size stains all over it that are either drip stains or bird droppings that got wiped off (but not cleaned) before it was installed.

Besides getting insulation facts wrong. First I can't remember ever seeing this foil without insulation attached. What is spread on top of the insulation looks like the exact same foil wrapped around ducts but does NOT have the attached insulation. It is a double ply foil, with woven threads, um, blanket. Maybe they were thinking of rolled insulation and this would have the same effect? The attic, which had several roof leaks and the HVAC sweating was very damp, musty and just smelled bad. Click to Enlarge 18.83 KB Click to Enlarge 16.21 KB Click to Enlarge 46.16 KB

Found this today, asked the renters about it, they said it was so their kid would not stick anything in the outlet. I just said OK, and moved on. And Yes it's in my report. Click to Enlarge 10.8Â KB

A-From power pole to the house to the meter, like a normal SEC, this is the one that is cut. B-I only see part of it, neither the beginning or the end and not in the panel. It first appears coming up through the wall directly above the panel in the attic. Click to Enlarge 20.36 KB Then it dives back into another wall roughly center of the house near the kitchen stove. Click to Enlarge 16.55 KB I think it's odd because of the size. Like I said it looked exactly like, same size and all, as the SEC on the exterior of the house. Um, busted. Since I could not find the beginning or end I could not test there and it was just too dang hot to hang out to long in that attic. My thermometer registered 132 degrees. So yes I used a volt stick and left. I think inside the wall where the panel is. I am guessing this only because of so many little things, not one conclusive thing. The meter, that has a broken lock, is back to back roughly with the panel inside. This second SEC type/size cable appears to lead to the same area yet I don't see anything of that size in the panel. It hard to describe what I'm thinking since I don't have an exact, this is how it is, is it wrong. I'm guessing or assuming on a lot. As such I know I can't get an actual for fact answer. Was just hoping for some good guesses. The power company is suppose to be there tomorrow for their look see, then depending what they do, the electrician. I guess the best thing is to just wait and see what they say/find.

I've been through my books for something that actually talks about wires passing through walls. The only thing I can find that relates to it is the distance from a framing member, the angle of the bend and protection from physical damage (E3702.3). But nothing more specific. It just seems to be left open to personal judgment concerning physical damage. I say it will get damaged, he says it won't. In the picture below, before I was even done taking the picture, the listing agent was saying "Grandfathered", "it's fine, it's been like that for 40 years". The fact that he was so quick to point this out made me think this home had been inspected before and the previous inspector had said something about it. Also, you can see the protective casing was removed just before it goes into the wall. Would it be safe to assume the rest of the line inside the wall it also unprotected as well? This is for the disposal. How would you write it up? Click to Enlarge 25.08 KB

I guess my explanation is just as confused as I am. My question is about the setup as a whole. I found what appears to be two SEC cables. One that runs through the attic and the other is an external. To be more exact, and I know the picture in the attic isn't the best but if you look at the SEC on the exterior, the portion running from the peak to the meter, then compare it with the line I found in the attic, they are the same type (but not the actual same line). My question is, why would they use the same type of line in the attic? My guess was a sub panel or the one in the attic was from a previous (now removed) panel. There is no sub panel or any indications of previous panels. Both lines are hot, but I only saw one going into the panel. I think there is something very funky going on inside of the wall. Just trying to guess what it may be. Again a correct answer is not really needed as I noted all of the individual problems, and we're not suppose to trace down every line in the house. Its just my curious nature. The only guess I can make that makes sense, is the line in the attic, was left over material and may be spliced somewhere inside the wall or maybe at the meter and maybe bypassing the panel itself?

I haven't seen this type of roof before and I'm curious if it is supposed to be this way or if there is suppose to be an additional cover? My common sense is screaming yes there should be. It hasn't rained here in about a week is way dry, but the natural valleys in the form should be acting like pools and just collecting standing water. Since is was dry I have to assume there are some type of weep holes or maybe they have already rusted through and that is how the water is getting out. I didn't walk this area to look more closely. This is an addition/Florida room. Click to Enlarge 32.44 KB Click to Enlarge 33.34 KB

First, there are more than enough problems here to fill a small book and I'm not asking to list them all. I, being the curious type, and just trying to figure some of it out. I found whats appears to be two live SEC's. One overhead that has multiple problems and one that runs through the attic. Like I said, both are live. The exterior one goes to the meter and the attic one drop into the wall just above the panel (the panel and meter are back to back). The lines going to the panel are also a smaller than the two SEC lines. I noted everything I found, including extreme electrical and fire hazard, and did the qualified and licensed electrician bit as well as recommended contacting the local power company. This is a 1967 home. My curiosity is, where the second SEC disappears into the wall mid house, is also the location of the 220 outlet for the stove. There is also an addition to the back of the house, so maybe there use to be a panel back there, but if that's so, why would the line still be live? I can understand a lazy Electrician not removing the line, but not killing it? I asked the client to keep me informed as to what the electrician says about the whole thing. But I am just curious if anyone might have a decent explanation/guess here. Click to Enlarge 42.22Â KB Click to Enlarge 35.36Â KB Click to Enlarge 29.2Â KB Click to Enlarge 25.66Â KB Click to Enlarge 18.82Â KB Click to Enlarge 17.1 KB Click to Enlarge 12.16 KB Click to Enlarge 14.28 KB Click to Enlarge 16.55 KB Click to Enlarge 20.36 KB

Just curious, lets say you come across a panel using all sheet metal screws. Do you re-install the panel with those same screws or do you leave the panel off. For the sake of the discussion, lets say there is no apparent immediate danger for putting the screws back in?

I have safety glass too, but no matter which pair I have or had they never work. Not really the glasses fault, I just forget them in the truck all the time and never wear them. I probably should tie them around my neck lol.

This is one of those "little" things I see on a not too frequent basis that although of course is important and should be noted, often gets blown out of proportion. IMHO, there is a simple and cheap fix to these problems that has paid for itself a couple of times over. I carry an assortment of panel screws in my truck and use these to re-install the panel. I don't consider this a "fix" as we have to put the screws back in anyways and if we re-install the panel with the wrong screws, aren't we just committing the same error we are pointing out? It's like $4 for a pack of 6 screws at the box store but I think it's one of those extra little steps we can take to make all sides happy without compromising any ethics or codes. I also carry things like the basic receptacle covers and insulation for HVAC lines. I might spend $100-$150 a year, but I am also convinced this has helped me get more previous client referrals and repeat customers. NOTE: This does not apply if for example the wiring is damaged or other problems exist.

Yes that is the firewall. The gap is over an inch I could fit index and middle finger in it. And I could not get a good look from the outside, too high (ladder didn;t reach) and covered by a tree. I have a roofing buddy and we are setting it up to go back with his gear and take a better look.

Is the separation in the picture below a result of the roof heaving? If facing the front of the house, this is on the left side. yes the white is sunlight. Click to Enlarge 16.7Â KB The truss 3rd from the left is missing a back side web member. Click to Enlarge 28.47Â KB The truss 4th from the left front side has a fractured web member. Click to Enlarge 16.95Â KB Click to Enlarge 25.35Â KB This is the house BTW,,,, Click to Enlarge 99.75Â KB Another BTW, yes I did look through out the house for other signs such as wall/ceiling cracks but found none. BUT! The whole interior of the house was painted about 2 weeks ago. So if there were any cracks, I wouldn't be seeing them.

Will I also get a discount on the signs to place in the yard when I'm done? "CERTIFIED DRYWALL FREE"

http://www.inspectorsinc.com/DYItestKIT ... DAodcCqhdQ

OK maybe a dumb question, but how can we test for it or is this something we need to add to our contracts stating that we don't look for it?

Oh, no Builder here (not new construction), sorry if I wasn't clear, "they" equaled the sellers agent.

A little note in my Realtor Association news letter. This appears to be gaining some momentum. Chinese Drywall â€â€œ Problems in Florida and Virginia Is Chinese drywall the new mold? The building industry is being hit by a bevy of lawsuits over drywall, manufactured in China that appears to be emitting nasty smelling, corrosive gases into peopleâ€â„¢s homes. Already, Florida lawyers have filed at least three separate lawsuits against the manufacturers and installers of the problematic drywall, including one case seeking class action status. Florida state health officials have said that the Chinese-made drywall poses no immediate health threats, but the material is having an unusual effect on air-conditioning units. It appears that gases from the drywall are corroding coils and causing frequent A/C failures. Even Floridaâ€â„¢s Lt. Governor, Jeff Kottkamp, whose house was built by a Florida lawmaker, is reportedly issues with his drywall. Click Here to read the full story in a recent Wall Street Journal article. There have also been reports of Chinese drywall problems in Hampton Roads but so far the problem seems limited. Your Governmental Affairs team is researching the issue and will keep you posted as new information becomes available.

Welcome, I already got a Topic for ya! I've held off on mold and air quality certs so I could focus more on core items and to keep my business simple. Well the more I am here the more I am believing having these certs are core and I simply need to get them. Can you recommend a course track, series of books, beginning middle end of process and such. Basically, if someone wants to do this and do it the RIGHT way, not the "just good enough" way, how is it done?

Vice starting a new topic figured I'd leach off of this one. M1307.3.1 Protection from impact - Appliance located in a garage or carport shall be protected from impact by automobiles. I have yet to see where it is written "how" to protect or what is adequate protection. Or am I reading this wrong? It says provide protection, but I could put a card board box in from of the WH and call it protection. This is the reason for my question. They say the appliances are protected. BTW, if you can't see, the posts are NOT sunken into the concrete. How would you call this? Click to Enlarge 34.02 KB

There was also this under the vent in the attic [:-tong2] Click to Enlarge 24.13 KB

So basically you think it was just a sloppy fix? That makes more sense tbh.

Came across this a couple hours ago and I have my hunch but would just like others opinions. First, I did not walk to that part of the roof, this is zoomed from the ladder. I had already slipped once on the roof (wind, pitch and just wasn't comfortable) and wasn't looking to break a leg or worse. Anyways, to me that looks like melted tar maybe. That is the vent for the gas furnace in the attic. I'm thinking the tar melted when heated up and began to "run" down the side of the roof. The real answer doesn't really matter as it's clearly leaking and I'm already calling it out. I'm just curious as I have never seen this effect on a vent like that, chimney yes, but not a vent. As I posted the pictures I looked at them again and thought, could that be whats left of a melted storm collar? Click to Enlarge 54.07 KB Click to Enlarge 43.07 KB Click to Enlarge 22.48 KB

The main difference between .com and .net is getting people to remember it. Like the example above, the first thing people also do is type www.ford.com. If they see your truck and remember "Studly Inspections" and saw a website listed, most won't remember the .net or .com. Most will just assume it is .com. So it is in the recognition that .com would be better. As for search engines, I doubt there is any ranking difference. And when people search for something, they read the top of the description and rarely even look at the actual link below, so .com or .net wouldn't make a difference. The only thing I would do if I was you, if you go .net, is make sure the .com version (assuming you didn't buy that too as it's already in use) isn't being used by a fellow inspector half way across the country or some porn site. Both those examples could cause the potential customer to just drop your company name all together and find someone else.