sepefrio

Thanks guys

Trying to get the age of a Rheem condenser S# 4918M4493 1925 This is what my chart says Age: Four digits of serial number indicate date of manufacture where first two indicate the week and the third and fourth are the year. In the 1960s and early â€Ëœ70s this was the last four digits. More recently date of manufacture information is found closer to the middle of the serial number. Example: xxxx1872 = 18th week of 1972 ________________________________________________________________________ This S# is not exactly in the same format so posting just to be sure. Who agrees with 44th week of 1993?

LOL the AC drain is a separate issue Image Insert: 677.38 KB Went through my pictures again, and it's a bit, well, bright white, but you can see the gutter end cap and chimney and the separation between the two. Image Insert: 238.31 KB BTW, lets make this an education issue too. My guess at the condensation, how plausible is that? I don't think it can be proved except under actual conditions (in the winter with a fire going).

That actually makes sense, and since I couldn't get on the roof I didn't even think about it.

You can see the rust line along the aluminum siding. Do you think it is from the gutter above it over flowing/leaking or from the flue condensation? To make sure I'm clear, I mean when the fireplace is lit, the flue obviously gets warm and I'm thinking the warm inside/cold outside would create condensation. BTW, it's surface rust (but does not penetrate) and not a rust stain. Image Insert: 382.86 KB

I have a little saying about myself. I'm the smartest man in the world because I know I'm stupid.

Many curse words later, I found my own problem. It's a friggen split bus, thus only three throws needed. City inspector is still wrong but this panel meets NEC in this case. Typed the above as you guys were responding. BTW Neal. the top left breaker is not wired, thus only three breakers top half.

OK, I found the below panel and recommended it be replaced because it takes more than six throws to shut off all power. The owner called the chief city inspector here and he said I'm full of , well not goodness. Client won't buy unless it's fixed. Seller won't fix Agent is begging me to do something. Quote from Electrical Inspection by Doug Hansen, p 2.21 The main disconnect is not always a single switch or breaker; thre can be a total of up to 6 main disconnects [230-71a]. The NEC has never allowed more than 6 hand movements to disconnect power at the service. Any advice? Image Insert: 173.29 KB

Thanks Rob, I found the link to it. http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/21134540/vp ... 5#24946165

Well, two things I do agree with so far certainly. (Still thinking over some others). I'll find a way to get "Home Inspection" at the top of the brochure so they know the subject matter inside. qhinspect, as for the re-inspect, yes I only do it until closing too. I haven't had the problem of going back multiple times yet, but what you said is a good idea. Thanks.

OK let me state a couple of goals from this brochure. First, almost everyone here that states they don't use brochures (and some no advertising at all) are already established and don't need them. I'm not established, so I need a way to get those first calls to establish the name. I do office visits, open house visits and I am in a BNI group. I have gotten some business from each, and some repeat business. I know doing that alone I will have my hands full in oh say, 5 years, but although my wife says she wants to diet, I don't think a forced one is a good idea, lol. Every office visit I go to I leave business cards. The response to that 99% of the time is, "Do you have any brochures?" From the agents and front desk people I talk to, the majority of the time, the clients are encouraged to select their HI from the brochures from the table. They also tell me, they take brochures before they even look at business cards. Of course an agent might say this HI is better than that, but that is after the client has a couple in hand. As for the front page not saying anything about home inspections, that was my idea. I have studied the brochures of local HI's and again, they are 99% the same. Everyone starts with the company name at the top. I think the name of your company is useless at this point. None of us are Wal-Mart or McDonalds. Few if any buyers/sellers know a HI business by it's name. They don't pick it up because of the name. They pick it up because it catches their eye. Again, the vast majority of the offices I goto, the HI brochure location has nothing but HI brochures. So when the client is directed, they already know everyone of the brochures on the table are about home inspections. Why should I tell them what they already know? Another thing I did, and I'll admit it, I got this from Nachi-TV, then verified it in my BNI group, friends and family. I asked them, if you bought a house would you get a home inspection, they all, without hesitation, replied "Of course". Thus, unlike many brochures or other ads do, there is no need anymore to sell the idea of a home inspection. The client already knows they need one. What the brochure needs to do is to make them choose you over the other guy. I agree with the statements of " you need something to draw their eye and grab their attention to your brochure". That was my hope with the sunset picture and the "Next Step to Your Dreams" statement. A company name or logo doesn't do that. The rest of the pictures I was aiming for upper middle class look. And trying to stay with the style of homes around here. Although the sunset has nothing to do with inspections, quite a few people I've shown samples to have said it caught their eye and made them feel comfortable. Not all techy and already lost in Inspector-speak. From studies I've read and from advice from the local SBA, this is something I have learned about brochures. The front cover's ONLY job is to get them to pick up the brochure and not sell them anything. The inside cover needs to answer a very simple question they may have, quickly and positively. Thus the area I work in. Right from the start, they get a "OK good he works in my area". You now have two yes and zero no's, Then most people will look at the top middle of the brochure and thats where you need your name and tell them what you do. The right and left insides should support the middle. As for the re-inspections. It is said don't do it because you will have too much work. Well, when I have too much work, then I will consider it. But for now I need to separate myself from my competition to get work. Once I'm doing 8-10 inspections a week vice 1-3, I can remove/adjust that. But for now it stays as that alone has earned me a few jobs. I'm not stubborn, well yes I am, but I do listen to advice. But I use that advice to make my best judgment for my situation as I hope each of you would. None of us are in the exact same boat and different things work differently in different areas. For example, I will put some more time into the wording, but I also don't want it to be written for a college professor. I want the wife of the deployed sailor to read it, like it and hire me. BTW I do agree with the website. And mine needs work and updating. That is my next project. But since a good portion of HI's in this area are selected by the brochures in the office, I feel I need to get mine in there too.

Just a note. I just finished talking with a third electrician I know. All three said the same thing. No matter what work the person wants done, if they see this panel, the first words out of their mouth, well we start with a complete panel replacement or we don't start at all. And I did as suggested. I kept the two issues as separate comments, but I put them next to each other. I also gave them the link to the ny-inspect site to get further information. I knew what the right thing to do was, and maybe this ladies adorable baby that actually thought I was funny clouded my mind a bit making me want to scream DANGER DANGER DANGER! I'll tell you, this issue alone makes me feel so dam good that I won't do on site reports anymore. I get to think about reasonable comments now.

subject says it all. Sorry I can't post it as a whole it's a cheap program Cover Image Insert: 86.13 KB Inside cover Image Insert: 67.17 KB Back Cover Image Insert: 91.83 KB Inside left Image Insert: 88.9 KB Inside middle Image Insert: 100.71 KB Inside Right Image Insert: 87.24 KB

OK finally came across my first Federal Pacific Stab Lok panel today. It wouldn't have been anything truly special if it was for the others things I found too. Except for 1 socket in a newly installed wall that divided the garage (now utility room and baby room) every socket in the house had a three prong plug and no ground. OK thats important, but somewhat standard. Not a bells and whistles thing. What got me thinking was the attic. A 1940's house, walk in attic. Right about the top of the stairs into the attic there is a burn circle on the rafter. On the rather next to it, is a new light and wire. Along the rafter with the burn mark, it the clear outline )they painted over it) of what use to be the old wiring for the old light (where the burn mark is). In the middle of this, still attached, is the melted insulation of the previews wire, about a 4ft run. I found a similar run about 10 ft away. It is clear the wiring melted in place. Looking closer, I found several spots with fire damage. What I'm looking for here is, am I stepping out of place with my thoughts and I should just shut up and report what I see? I'm convinced, that the Federal Pacific panel failed at a previous date cause the wiring to overheat and catch fire. I think the new wiring was installed and the panel not addressed. Do I call this a fire hazard as a whole, or do I just recommend replacement of the panel and notify of the previous fire damage? I know I'll recommend an electrician to look at it, so should I just leave it at that and hope he does it right? I guess this is more of a moral question than a professional or maybe both. Do I just report as an inspector, or go with my gut and scream Danger?

Although most of the comments probably still apply there is a point being missed. There are three parties involved. Universal Sales Systems, Inc. is the training provider mortgage and realty are the students I would be one of the sponsors (money paid to Universal Sales Systems, Inc. not Realtors)

http://www.universalsalessystems.com/ I have been invited to sponsor a training seminar for the mortgage and Realty communities. The cost is is under $1000, I would be the only HI there, get an 8 foot table and can put any promotional materials there that I want. I will also get to give a 5-10 minute introduction of myself. So far they have 60 confirmed attendees. I got this invitation through my lawyer, who is also attending (he does closings) and he says there are completely legit. I see some goods things about this company doing the training on the net. Here's the question. For an HI still trying to get his name out there and recognized, do you think this is a good opportunity for the cost. Figure, it's not just the $1000 to sponsor it, but I'll need to get more promotional items too. What ya think? Would you do it?

I'd love to read some of your articles, can you post some links?

I got a call this morning canceling an inspection I had scheduled for Tuesday morning. Apparently someone went into the crawl space and cut out all the copper piping and stole it. I've seen reports of people stealing copper from telephone and power lines and stuff like that but from someones house? At least my neighbor (a plumber) got work out of it. This really is a sad world we live in sometimes.

So my gut was right. Even if I could have opened it, I shouldn't?

First off, as you can see, I couldn't remove the panel because of the shelf installed over it. Also, every outlet in the house, except one, that I tested show as Open ground. As such I referred the panel and the outlets to an electrician. But, lets say you open a panel and see a screw like this. Would you go further? Is there a reason for this? Top right breaker. Image Insert: 395.33 KB

Scott good points. Not sure about the sales thing as I don't sell it to them. One could say i do as it's included in the price of the inspection but the inspection will cost the same regardless if they take the warranty or not. As for being complacent, I don't think that applies to this. If a HI is going to be complacent, they will do it regardless of this. You could also say those that buy E&O insurance would become complacent. All insurance companies turn down claims. They don't make money paying claims. But you are right, if they do turn it down, the Hi will be getting called next. Some offer commissions others don't.

I offer the service through a different company. I have the cost included in the price and just present it to the client. It cost me about $17 per so i just add $20 to my inspection fee's. Only been using this service now for maybe a month, but all my clients have liked it. Some RE's have raised an eyebrow though. I guess if we offer the service "for free", then they can't sell them to clients. I also like the promotional stuff that comes with it. I use that to reduce my marketing costs.

Has anyone here seen or used this product? Opinions? http://www.greenswitch.tv/

Well I never got to use it, even with the a letter waiving liability. They stopped the inspection when I found crumbling bricks in the fireplace. About a dozen full bricks had actually already fallen out.

I inspected a house today, well part of it anyways (when I found falling bricks the Realtor said the FHA loan would never go through so might as well stop) that had a gas hot water heater. Since I didn't inspect it, I just quick looked it, I didn't get all the particulars as to why is was leaning but thats not part of my question. On the drive home I was thinking about it. First for this discussion, lets assume it's a brand new HW, and everything else was in perfect condition. But lets say the HW heater was on a concrete slab and angled at about 20 degrees. Does the mere fact that it is tilted cause a problem? If so what are they? I'm thinking that first, since it's gas fired, the flames are not actually burning straight up but at an angle thus not the way intended. I would think this would cause reduced efficiency but would it damage the HW? Also, I would think there is almost no way the exhaust would line up properly? I mean there could be angles but still, one side of the draft hood would be higher than the other. Oh yeah, the hazard of it falling over too. Anyways, what problems would a leaning HW cause? Is there any special difference between an electric and a gas (besides what I mentioned above) HW in this situation. Thanks for the incoming lesson.