drcr

A ridge vent by itself will vent an attic space. How efficiently, and the neccessity of which, depends on any number of variables. A code should be more like guidelines.[:-pirate]

Hi Mike, I went to the BuildingScience website and searched for the term "short circuit". No luck. A lot of info on ventilation, but I could not find anything about short circuiting the attic ventilation thing. Maybe you could point me to Listurbek's report on the subject or some other solid research. Thanks

hausdok, Just curious, what part of those "seemingly authoritative articles ", do you not agree with?

Installed properly, you pretty much have to cover the whole roof, they do a good job and will last a long time. Original wire loop snow guards on house built in early 1900's.

I would call that a gable cornice roof. Even though there is no cornice. Cut short at the corners, like the gable to the left in the post picture, that would be cornice return roofs.(if they were larger and had roofing material) In my mind, a pent roof is the same as a shed or lean-to roof, and a separate style of roof. Pent, shed or lean-to roof The above link was also a good example of a stand alone pent roof. But hey, with a picture and arrow, you can call it what you want.

Certainly not the worst. The roofing should be behind the lower 2 siding courses. The siding should be secured. The wall flashing tins are fine. No need to come down further if the rolled roofing (looks like sbs modified to me) is up under that third shingle course. Two more nails not in the danger zone. Much depends on the details we can't see. Such as the corner cut and seal at the wall. Or how far under the shingles the modified is run. Will heat from the interior cause an ice problem.etc.

Hard to tell much from those pics. Those valleys might have plenty of pitch to them and be roofed with a modified bitumin/flat roof material. I don't see a problem.

Chad, I was just bustin your balls. I see a lot of crap like that original job. Your flashing job is better than most "professional roofers".

Nice work Chad. You don't have the finished chimney pictures up. I assume you used a two piece apron/counter flashing on the front of the chimney? And cut the shingles back from the chimney at the saddle to keep them from sitting in water and to reduce debris build up?

You are right Jim. The NRCA does use the term "step flashing". As well as "base flashing" and "baby tins". They further confuse the point by stating ; D.Cap Flashings (counterflashings) 3. " Flashing hooks should be used to secure step flashings, and the vertical legs of the flashing should be secured with roofer's cement colored to match the masonry. Soldering of step flashings is recommended." Obviously referring to "stepped counter flashing". I guess I was going back aways for "soakers". It's still used in the UK. Maybe less confusion over there. (yeah right)[]

To "sort of" answer the question. I don't think so. There would be less metal to heat and expand, but also less metal to counter act said expansion. Six of one, half dozen of the other. Mainly just for looks. And there would be less confusion if the "step flashing" of "local jargon" was referred to by it's traditional name, "soaker flashing" or just "soakers". Does that help?[:-crazy]

Good advice there. I would add that those wood shingles may be white cedar instead of red cedar. In which case they will deteriorate much faster in those conditions. You might be able to tell by cutting a sliver off one of the shingles.

A stepped flashing would be better. A long piece of metal like that in the pic will expand and contract more, eventually breaking the caulking seal.

I like the idea of inspectors with ir cameras. I can't count the times new homeowners discover roof leaks that were painted over by the previous homeowner.

From what I can see in the pics. Two layers of shingles. The original shingle overhang was cut back from the edge. The eave pic shows some type of underlayment, probably cheap ice and water shield (although it does look like 45lb felt), and one layer of shingles. My guess is this house has a ventilation problem. Possibly the reason for the new shingles deteriorating. The roofer might have removed about 3 foot of the original eave shingles to install the ice and water. I agree the i&w should be behind the gutter and under the drip edge. Rake edges? That depends on local conditions. When I started installing shingles, looonnnng ago, we gaged the edge by measuring with the index finger. From the tip to the first knuckle crease is 1". The far end was cut with snips and a hatchet with blade and a chalk line. We didn't waste shingles up the rake to use as a gage. That is the basic scenario. There are a lot of variables. If the roof was out of square, you had to chalk vertical lines and measure to the edge. This was the time of 3tabs. If plywood was used for sheathing, and the carpenters ran it over the rake board, drip edge was installed to protect the plywood. Sometimes the rake board was warped or bowed and drip edge would be installed to make it look better. If I were in a high wind location, and still installing shingles, I think the new self stick starter strips would be the way to go on both the eave edges and the rakes. Lots of variables and regional variations.

Greetings I found this site through JLC. Looked interesting, but the main reason I registered is because I saw a sailboard on kurt's avatar.[:-thumbu] Thought maybe I could help out once in a while on the roofing forum. I have a couple sites (in sig below) that you may be able to find some useful (hopefully) pics or info.