BornaRoofer

All single ply pvc ,tpo hypalon ect have a scrim and you can see the grid pattern on all of them. And the scrims are not made of fiberglass it is most likely polyester or nylon. They are all still being installed and could be any number of manufactures or types. A closer pic of the details may help.

My opinion is its a glorified tarp. Ok maybe a little better than a tarp. A good epdm roof will outlast a durolast. And durolasts standard membrane is only 35 mils vs epdms 45. Ponding doesn't effect epdm. It will eat at the seams though over time. Ponding is no good for any roof. Remove the ponding and use epdm. Theres also reinforced epdm thats just as puncture and tear resistant. Plus you can get a puncture warranty from some epdm manufactures on the reinforced membrane.

It may be a rib and not a seam but why would there be fasteners in a rib? It looks like a fastener to the right of the boot on top of the seam/rib. Either way it would be better if it was on the flat of the panel. Id have moved it prior to installing the panel.

I apologize I guess I didn't realize you meant you only recommend not going up and over when its 100 year old brick on both sides of the parapet. So 95% of everything built in the last 50 years should be flashed up and over as the entire roofing industry requires. Rarely are buildings built with brick on the inside of the parapet anymore. Its all block with waterproofing 90% of the time. Unfortunately the guy that roofed most of those buildings 100 years ago also flashed up and over. And you have to flash the wall at least 8" up so your still going to get the condensation at the base if your wall/bldg has excess moisture in it. If theres water vapor under the roof anywhere its not good. Hvac systems have zero effect on parapets but they do effect humidity.

I understand your concerns about sealing up parapet walls but I have to disagree. Whats going to keep the water out of the top of the wall? A metal cap with a caulk seam every 10'? Old clay crock? Copings leak and are the first thing to go in a storm something needs to seal the open top of the wall. Ive personally inspected and installed thousands of flat roof systems and some did have the conditions you talked about but it wasn't from the flashing sealing up the wall. It was from unsealed walls on the outside or condensation. Walls are supposed to have waterproofing behind any brick veneer with weep holes and block has to be painted or sealed to prevent damage. Condensation is not a roofing issue its a ventilation /hvac issue. Now if you had a specific designed vented parapet that may be different but ive never seen one.

The roof looks like its unsaveable. I couldn't list all the things I see wrong. Possibly reflashing and proper metal details throughout would give it a few years. Your supposed to go over the parapet and install a coping. Bar is used when your terminating to a wall you cant go over the top of or a wall end. I recommend surface or reglet metal not bar though. The field sheet goes 4" up past the cant then a separate flashing up and over the wall and 4" onto the field. You can tell if its a mod bit by the texture of the bitumen. Its rubbery and somewhat elastic if you push or pull on a piece.

Well on that boot site every photo the pipes are in the seams. I know for a fact that any weather tight warranty on a metal roof does not allow penetrations in the seams. You have to build curbs or crickets if the penetration has to fall in the seam. Its usually easier to just move the pipe. I also don't see any warranty given by the boot manufacture.

All I know is if theres a warranty its voided by installing penetrations in the seams. And right on the back side where the seam and boot come together at the 90 it already looks open.

That is the proper flashing for that type of pipe and that type of roof. Im not sure of height requirements. I do know that the pipe should have been moved to the center of the panel. No penetrations are allowed to penetrate or go over seams. And it probably should be clamped at the top.

Here we call them sleepers or just curbs.

Unless its spitting out oils grease or other chemicals from inside.

Whatever it is its been there awhile by the looks of the rusting and it hasn't blown off yet. Whats a swamp cooler do? Condition the air?

No thats the standard way to set air units. Usually 4x4's set on pads. The weight of the unit holds it down. In hurricane areas it may be different though.

You wont be able to tell from photos the type of material it really is. Cheap roll rfg will look the same as a good modified bitumen system in a pic. If its thicker and is kind of rubbery its mod bit. You have to know what you looking at. If its the good stuff it could get a warranty for up to 25 yrs. All that being said the installation is poor. The gutter Installation is no good for sure and id bet the seams need some tlc to.

Its definitly a pvc/tpo type roof. I don't believe its a durolast though. Durolast has factory seams,drain inserts(inverted boots) and one way vents. I don't see any of those on this roof. The seams on durolast also have the name molded into the factory seams.

It looks to me like a very poorly installed reinforced epdm roof that has been silver coated. No your not supposed to use asphalt coating on epdm but then again it looks like about the speed of that roofer. Epdm is made with a scrim if you want it for mechanically attached systems or improved puncture resistance.