caryseidner

Les- I'll try that next time. It looked like asbestos to me. I usually see asbestos that has some type of bonding or coating in/on it. Not the stuff that would be used during a modern encapsulation, more of a paste or paper mache' that makes it hard and dry ("That's what she said" - Michael Scott; The Office).

Thanks (again) Bill. It does look like fur or hair in the photo. There was a paper or moisture barrier on the backside of it. Looked like some old and deteriorated form of batt insulation.

Thank you Walter.

Does this look like asbestos? Image Insert: 47.54 KB

Can anyone tell me what this is? I found it at an exterior wall in a crawl space. I swiped my hand across it to try and figure out what it was, and it disintegrated in my hand. Insulation? Foam backing for retro waterproofing system? Sorry. I know the pics suck. Image Insert: 46.9 KB Image Insert: 42.14 KB Image Insert: 45.98 KB

The transition area between the low and steep doesn't look that bad. It looks like rolled roofing to me because I don't see any bleed out. APP Mod Bit would be better. The lower courses of the vinyl siding are loose because he ran his flashing up the wall. That's good and I would give that a C+/B- if I were grading it on a curve because most carpenters (or roofers for that matter) wouldn't get that part right and I've seen a whole lot worse than. A metal counterflashing to transition between the siding and roof flashing would complete the detail. The picture you included in your second post is the one that's gonna cost 5K to complete![:-slaphap

Very true. However, when you find low flow it's nice to be able to compare it with the static pressure of the system. High pressure with low flow requires a very different fix than low pressure with low flow. - Jim Katen, Oregon Good point Jim. That's probably why I still keep it in my tool bag.

I bought one too a while back too. I don't use it anymore. Functional flow is more relevant, IMHO, than the actual number.

Ahh.... That makes sense Bill. There are 2 zones for this FAU. Thank you very much!

I saw this today during an inspection and I can't figure out what it is for. The two rectangular ducts are the supply and return right after (or before) the FAU. I assume this rod connects to a damper inside the round duct and there is a weight or counterbalance on the rod. What is it for? Why would you ever want or need to open this path? Why a weight/counterbalance? Image Insert: 42.27 KB

I believe it's because of the plastic components within the meter, that interrupt the bonding. Image Insert: 44.09 KB

A.Y. McDonald says that is an apparatus to add support/strength to the piping & meter.

I don't know anything about them myself, and this was the first time I have come across one. I had a commercial inspection in Indiana yesterday and there it was. I guess I will call McDonald in the morning and ask them what the heck it's for.

Does this McDonald Yoke Bar serve as a ground wire jumper cable? Image Insert: 57.5 KB Image Insert: 56.2 KB

Thanks Mike & Steve. I understand now.

I don't understand. I have seen main panels that have no main disconnect, and few enough circuit breakers that could allow someone to switch them all off with fewer than 5 hand movements. This is allowed...right? So then if an electrician were to install a 200 amp main disconnect, would you still consider it over-fused?

I've looked under shingles that were not sealed too. That's no big deal. I was referring to shingles that are sealed down well. I would not try to loosen one of those shingles, particularly if they are older.

I would not make a habit of peeling back shingles. The potential for damage to the shingle is too great and unless you are prepared to correctly re-seal them, I think you are opening yourself up to liability for future damage.

Mark, Yes, this is the roofers' bible. You can view the java version (5th ed.) online at www.nrca.net They also sell the CD which is easier to work with IMO, but it's pricey.

Brandon, I always love hearing that statement "It's caused no problem up to now". It makes me laugh. Here's some verbiage from the NRCA Roofing & Waterproofing Manual (4th ed.): Starter Course for Shingles The starter course is applied directly over the underlayment or ice dam protection membrane along the downslope portion of the roof. Its primary purpose is to shed water that may migrate through the joints and cut-outs of the shingles in the overlying first course. The seams need to be staggered.

I saw the same thing on an inspection last weekend, although I didn't think much of it as it was a 20 year old roof that was worn all over. Image Insert: 75.71 KB Image Insert: 63.78 KB Image Insert: 53.32 KB

That's right Kurt, but that's not how I understood your first post. Just thought it might be important to clarify how the NRCA defines "Ponding". Q: When is a pond, not a pond? A: When it's less than 48 hours old. Anyway...I didn't see any ponds in his photos, so that doesn't seem to be an issue on this roof. Please forgive my additional "Cliff Claven" tid bits regarding other roofing systems that do permit ponding. I thought it might be useful info for some of the other HI's that read these posts.

Walter, You're probably right. It's still okay for my European lawyer friends to continue using per se, right?

Ponding per say, is not always an issue. Most manufacturers of BUR and Mod. Bit. systems allow for some ponding, as long as it is off of the roof within 48 - 72 hours (depending on the manufacturer & system) after a rain. Some Coal Tar Pitch system are actually designed to be under water at all times. They are water cooled roofs and we don't see many of them in residential applications, but they do exist. Single ply systems like EPDM don't have any disclaimers in their warranties about ponding whatsoever, however they aren't usually warrantied by the manufacturer in residential applications.

Tough to say from these shots, but I will give you my input based on my experience. Hand railings on balcony roofs or roof top decks are usually attached incorrectly. This one looks like a leaker too and it should be corrected by a licensed roofer. Exposed roof cement is a dead giveaway. Anytime you can see roof cement, there is or shortly will be a problem. Roof cement is not UV stable and will dry out very quickly when it is exposed to the sun. Pitch pans can be used around small round or square post, but they need to be topped off every year or so with a pourable sealer. Photo 2 looks like an emulsion coating with a UV reflective coating applied to it. Beneath those coatings it looks like a smooth surface BUR (Built-Up Roofing) system. The part that is chipping away is the emulsion/uv coating, but there is a pretty good chance the roof beneath it is shot or the homeowner would have never even applied the aesthetically pleasing coatings to begin with.