caryseidner
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Everything posted by caryseidner
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Happy Birthday Chad!
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It is also used in BUR, CTP & Mod Bit roofing systems as an overlay board over existing roof systems, wood decks and iscocyanurate insulation board. It is pressed into 1/2" or 3/4" (typically) and comes in 2' x 4' sheets. It is brown and does not hold up well when it gets wet. They also make tapered roof systems from it.
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We don't get cold enough around here to see that sort of thing, but I'd guess that the coloration of the "stalagmites" is due to the inclusion of combustion byproducts from previous use as a woodburning fireplace chimney (resins, etc) in the condensation. My thoughts as well. I have seen it with wood burners...and darker. The house was only 40 years old and I don't believe it's fuel source was ever wood or oil. Just natural gas. My (revised) guess is the color was due to the rust on the rain cap, which you can't really see in the photo.
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A "hole less" X-gallon water heater will always produce X-gallons of heated water. Right? So how could it all of a sudden be producing a smaller quantity of hot water? Maybe it is all of a sudden producing X-gallons of cooler water. I'm guessing that would mean a bad thermostat if the heating elements tested fine.
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Well Walter....you tried.
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They make an excellent roof, however it is not warrantied for residential application. The "best roof you can buy" is the one that is properly designed (and let's not forget installed) for the structure.
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Carlisle does not make mod bit.
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Is the shingle at the low side of the vent part of the shingle course, or is it just a cut piece of shingle that was applied over the metal base flashing of the vent? I can't quite tell from the photo. If it's part of the shingle course, it's wrong and a leaker. If it's applied over the base flashing strictly for cosmetics, I would say it's okay but kinda stupid. Even if its fully bonded to the metal base flashing and water could get trapped between the applied shingle and the base flashing, I can't see how water could get into the house.
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None that I know of.
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Brandon - Not with Mod. Bit. Some Coal Tar Pitch, EPDM & TPO systems can be installed and warrantied from the manufacturer when ponding conditions are present. However it would be extremely unlikely you would ever come across one of those "specially designed" systems on a residential roof.
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Any chimney on an outside wall venting gas combustion appliances has to have a metal liner. I might be wrong on this one, but it looked like it was on an outside wall. It is on an outside wall and there was not a metal liner in it. Thanks Kurt.
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This has bugged me for a while, but I finally was able to snap a couple of good photos that (I think) illustrate my question. Here is a P-Trap beneath a pedestal sink, or is it an S-Trap? Clearly this pipe moves in an S shape. How long does the horizontal portion, directly downstream of the 'P', have to be to make it a 'P' and not an 'S'. Or is that not the criteria? Click to View 45.71 KB Click to View 46.47 KB
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Yeah. I guess that's all it is. The parts that through me a bit were: 1) The color difference, but that's gotta be rust.2) I didn't mention in my original post, but these were the only two chimneys on the block that had the stalagmites. 3) I have never seen this before. id="indT">
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I saw these ice formations on a chimney cap of a house I inspected today. A natural gas water heater and forced air furnace are routed into the chimney. Outside temperature...DAMN COLD! (10 degrees +/-). The color in the photo is accurate. What the heck causes this? Click to View 27.71 KB The neighboring house chimney had the same thing on it. Except the color was white (newer appliances/flue = less rust?). Click to View 26.9 KB I'm guessing there is no problem with this, but I was wrong once.[]
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You're welcome Brandon.
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That IS GAF's ruberoid modified bitumen. Like Bill said, it's all wrong. All of the correct flashing details can be found at GAF's website.
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Bill, Why, and which light do you prefer?
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Kurt - Don't tease me. Give me some dirt!
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I got about 1 year out of my first battery, but I made the cardinal sin of trying to use it after the beam started to fade one day. After that it wouldn't hold a charge. I replaced the battery and bought a second ultra stinger. I rotate them a little, but I still use one of them as my primary. No problems with either of the batteries in 3 + years of use.
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Any one have an idea of an R-value????????
caryseidner replied to matto's topic in Attics & Insulation
I saw this once in an attic. Laughed my arse off! Click to View 45.99 KB Click to View 39.35 KB Click to View 46.19 KB And yes, they are all from the same attic. -
Jodi, I have never seen anyone use this method, but you mat want to try this. Click to View 90.82 KB
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Here you go. I didn't realize I had this. Click to View 46.82 KB
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Kurt, If you hit your "Alt"+"Print Screen" keys you can do a screen capture of the page. I usually than paste it into a MS word doc were I can crop and resize it, although there are probably other ways to do it too.
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Thanks Scott.
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Does anyone know of a good Dryvit inspector in the Chicago area?