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palmettoinspect

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palmettoinspect last won the day on January 5 2018

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About palmettoinspect

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    USA
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    Home Inspector

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  1. Call one of the many "foundation repair companies" we have here in SC. I'm not sure whether I can give out company names on this forum so PM me if you'd like and I can give you a few of the names. These large "foundation repair companies" are capable of properly repairing your issue if it is indeed unsupported load points overloading the structure and not a foundation issue. Jim is correct that finding an experienced contractor is tough and the usual result from an inexperienced contractor is a floor with even more dips/sags and humps.
  2. Thanks for the reply guys! That's what I figured but wanted to be sure.
  3. I'm wondering what you all think about these cracks in these cast in place concrete beams in the pictures below. I rarely see concrete beams, much less some with cracks like this. I'm not too worried about the hairline cracks but worry about the larger and uneven crack in the beam where it bears over the CMU wall. There's not really any noticeable movement in this area. Home is 20 years old, the foundation is CMUs, the beams are cast in place concrete, the rest of the framing is all wood. Thanks, Kiel
  4. Worked for me. Try http://mylinkdrive.com/ and click on the US flag.
  5. I was finally informed on how to identify the age of Mitsubishi units and want to share. I've always resorted to calling them. Today I had 12 units to identify and the operated filled me in on how to look them up. Go to this site http://meus1.mylinkdrive.com/ and choose your equipment based on the model and service reference numbers on the label of the units. From there use the first number in the serial number to identify the age. I hope this helps. Kiel
  6. I've experienced many time what you're referring to with these Anderson windows. It's not just the single/double hung windows, but also the casement windows. I always do the "push" test where I open the window and push on the sill to feel for rot. Also, as you open the windows you can usually see the hardware is loose from the rot. My theory with the casement windows is the water penetrates around the lower hardware and cracks that form in the vinyl cladding. The moisture and rot at the single and double hung windows is likely from the exposed corners. Most windows I see are exposed to an extreme beach climate so the damages are pretty bad.
  7. Jim, Thank you for the reply! No, it's not a selvage edge, this fabric extended over the entire balcony. The wear pad idea sounds plausible. This is a multi-unit villa where the regime contractors maintain the exterior. I've seen multiple different materials used for these balconies on other units, but this fabric is a first. I plan to contact them for some clarification.
  8. I came across a balcony that uses Ipe decking over 2x4 sleepers. There's a thin layer of black fabric that's installed under the decking that tore very easily. I'm thinking this fabric is apart of a liquid/fluid applied deck system and the contractors forgot to add some layers! In the picture you can see a metal coping so there could be something else under the fabric, but the decking wasn't removable to inspect. The ceiling under the balcony is underpinned and didn't show any signs of leaks. I'm not aware of any type of deck systems that use just a fabric as a top layer. Is anyone familiar with one that does?
  9. Dang! I thought the mess I found today in a 600k condo was bad!
  10. I've come across these steel framed and concrete/stone decks on a few houses used around a swimming pools. Some do okay, some exhibited terrible failure after about 20 years from the pool and rain water deteriorating the steel "I" beams. I came across another one yesterday about 10 years old that isn't as bad, but eventually the steel "I" beams will deteriorate. This just seems like a poorly thought-out design for an open air deck around a pool. I know you can water proof these concrete and steel decks, but this one wasn't. Constant watering of the planter boxes, rain and pool water are clearly leaking through to the steel. My questions is if these decks are designed without water proofing, what would be the life expectancy of the steel framing and what preventative measures can be taken to help slow the rust and deterioration? Painting the steel seems like a never ending task. At what point is it considered normal and what point is it a mess?
  11. Yes, very easy to tear! Thank you all for the replies.
  12. I'm looking at this screen porch low slope roof that was recently replaced. It's a really ugly install. The roofer called in 90 lb felt, but it looks like the top layer of a granulated mod bit roof to me that was installed over the existing roof. Can anyone clarify from these pictures? Thanks, Kiel
  13. Dang, I couldn't imagine using a 350 lumens light anymore. I need 1000 lumens minimum. I'd suggest the Zebralight sc600f MK 3 plus. It's on sale for $79 right now. Zebralight has the best user interface of any lights I've tried. Super durable, stupid bright and plenty of run time. You can get the non protected cells required for the light right from Zebralight for about $7 each. A decent XTAR charger runs about $25. You'd be all set for about $135, and that includes the light, four batteries and charger. http://www.zebralight.com/SC600-Mk-III-18650-XHP35-Flashlight-Cool-White_p_174.html
  14. Jim, I see them from time to time on about 60-70s ranch homes. They're always over a double car garage where the home owners didn't want a post. I have no idea what they're actually called. The ones I've seen that are untouched seem to hold up pretty well. It's either these type of beams or some doubled up 2x8 or 10s sandwiched between a steel flitch plates that always seem to sag. How was it holding up? Kiel
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