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palmettoinspect

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About palmettoinspect

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  • Location
    USA
  • Occupation
    Home Inspector
  1. flashlight bulbs

    Dang, I couldn't imagine using a 350 lumens light anymore. I need 1000 lumens minimum. I'd suggest the Zebralight sc600f MK 3 plus. It's on sale for $79 right now. Zebralight has the best user interface of any lights I've tried. Super durable, stupid bright and plenty of run time. You can get the non protected cells required for the light right from Zebralight for about $7 each. A decent XTAR charger runs about $25. You'd be all set for about $135, and that includes the light, four batteries and charger. http://www.zebralight.com/SC600-Mk-III-18650-XHP35-Flashlight-Cool-White_p_174.html
  2. site built truss

    Jim, I see them from time to time on about 60-70s ranch homes. They're always over a double car garage where the home owners didn't want a post. I have no idea what they're actually called. The ones I've seen that are untouched seem to hold up pretty well. It's either these type of beams or some doubled up 2x8 or 10s sandwiched between a steel flitch plates that always seem to sag. How was it holding up? Kiel
  3. 3 wire to 4 wire feeder repair

    Thanks Jim!!!!
  4. 3 wire to 4 wire feeder repair

    Bill and Jim thanks! What about 300.3(B)(3)? Would it be an exception? The Feeder from the Meter to the sub panel is NM ran inside the wood framed walls. No conduit or raceways between the two. NEC 300.3(B) requires all conductors of the same circuit to be contained in the same cable—unless otherwise permitted in accordance with 300.3(B)(1) through (4). NEC 300.3(B)(3) permits conductors in wiring methods with a nonmetallic (NM) sheath to be run in different cables. NEC 300.3(B) requires all circuit conductors of an individual circuit to be grouped to reduce inductive heating. This is not a problem with nonferrous wiring methods
  5. 3 wire to 4 wire feeder repair

    I'm trying to figure out if it's okay to just run an additional single wire instead of a completely new 4 wire feeder for a sub panel that was originally feed with a 3 wire feeder from the main disconnect at the meter. There's a group of newer home (4-6 years) built where all the feeder wires from the main disconnect at the meter to the sub panel inside the home were all ran with 3 wire feeders. The builder has agreed to repair them all which will not be an easy task. There will be a lot of drywall cut out to chase the new wire from the meter on one side of the home to the sub panels on the other side of the home. The electrician and builder plan to run one single wire form the main disconnect to the sub panel to isolate the equipment ground and neutral wires inside the sub panel. Should there be a whole new 4 wire feeder ran? Thanks, Kiel
  6. Home Inspector Shoots Congressman

    Terrible!
  7. Plywood used for fire separation

    Steven, That's exactly what I did and never received a response! Go figure.
  8. Plywood used for fire separation

    Thanks for the clarification Jim and Marc!
  9. Plywood used for fire separation

    I'm getting some push back on an issue and I'm looking for some clarification. I called out the use of plywood for fire separation between the garage and living space in this home. The home is a drive under with a living area above the garage. The real estate agent is claiming she had a conversation with the building inspector and the use of plywood for fire separation falls under the 2000 code IRC r309.2. Home was built in 2003. I don't read it that way. I'm not exactly sure what the word "equivalent" means in the code though. I'm aware that there's some FRT plywood that is fire resistant, but it must be labeled if used. I can't ever recall seeing FRT plywood used at a garage ceiling though. Could "equivalent" mean the use of a different type of fire rated building material such as FRT plywood?
  10. 2 200 amp panels fed off disconnect, 3 or 4 wire feeder?

    Thank you for the prompt replay Jim! Yes, there's many workspace issues! Hell, there's so many electrical issues on this home my head is spinning. I've added a few more pictures for your enjoyment. I'm going over the ways of typing it my head keeping in mind he recent articles by Jim Morrison, but it's hard with so many issues!
  11. I'm kind of confused on this one and looking for some guidance. I've never seen this type of "Square D" disconnect used before. I could not get the cover to open to inspect, but it appears to feed the two 200 amp panels above and the small 60 amp panel above. My concern is two 200 amp panels are only fed with 3 wire feeders, not 4 wire and the ground and neutral wires are not separated. Given the big Square "D" box is a disconnect, shouldn't the two 200 amp panel be feed with 4 wire feeders and the ground and neutral separated? Thanks, Kiel
  12. Open Cell vs. Closed Cell

    Great reads! In my experience sealing that attic with spray foam alone doesn't help much and doesn't create a conditioned attic space. You must mechanically condition the attic. Whether it's with the heating and air ducts or dehumidifiers. I've seen attics that used both the heating and air and dehumidifiers and one or the other. The problem with using the heating and air equipment and ducts is, you must install both a supply and returns. Supplies only dumping into the attic only make things worse. There must be a return to extract the moisture. The problem with many of the beach homes that truly need a condition attic is they're second homes and when vacant and not in regular use the AC isn't on and there's no dehumidification happening. In my experience conditioned attics that are sealed and use dehumidifiers, whether it's spray foam or some other type of material used to block the attic ventilation works the best. The dehumidifier being key. The dehumidifier also needs to be sized properly for the space and in some cases of chopped up attics need multiple units or ducts for the dehumidifiers are needed. I'm not a huge fan of spray foam, but will agree it's the best way to get a pretty air tight space. Conditioned attic spaces can be archived without using spray foam by just blocking the ventilation and using a dehumidifier.
  13. Open Cell vs. Closed Cell

    Typically it's open cell that's used around here. You do see closed cell used in attics from time to time and it's being used more often, but mostly open cell. I think it's mainly cost. Closed cell works the best to encapsulate and stop air travel though. Many who are using spray foam in the attics are using it to encapsulate the attics more to reduce excessive humidity rather than the insulation value. The spray foam is used along with dehumidifiers to block the ventilation and reduce humidity. If you have a beach or water front home here it's a must do thing. Click to Enlarge 43.85 KB
  14. opinion on roof estimate please

    I just re-roofed my old house before selling it. I had about $3350 in the job. Certainteed Landmark shingles, new felt, black metal drip edge, ice and water in the valleys, new black aluminum flashing around the chimney, about 4 sheet of plywood, and 17-18 squares. Material was about $2000, labor was $1200 cash for a few guy who knew what they were doing (just needed a translator). Permit was about $100. Wood siding repair after new flashing at the chimney was about $50. There's a lot of mark up in roofing around here. The same job turn key from a local roofing company was more than double the price. The down side is no install warranty, the risk of someone getting hurt etc. Give a call to your local supply store and price the material before you decide. Click to Enlarge 98.68 KB Click to Enlarge 68.53 KB
  15. My first promo video

    Very nice Marc! I had no problem understanding you. Video production looked top notch too!
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