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  1. How about an opposite situation. The treads were replaced and the nosing trim sticks up about 1/4" . This makes it an uneven stair tread with a little stop. It could also be a trip hazard depending on foot size. Wish I had a pic but the nosing is like a transition piece that's a little thicker than the tread.
  2. I came across this on new construction. It allows the owners to measure their electrical usage. I'm speaking of the 2 white metering devices on the service entrance cables and the leads exiting the panel at the bottom. I saw something similar to this befoe in a condo where they were trying to meter by individual units and I thought I was told it was wrong. I've searched the forum for "low voltage in panel" and found references to 110 and 725 and I'm still confused. I guess we'll be seeing more of this in our quest for energy efficiency I sent this before finishing and I wanted to know if the set-up is OK i.e. can these low voltage devices be in the panel? I did not read the panel information. Download Attachment: P9230129.JPG 55.29 KB
  3. Any help on determining the age of a Burnham oil boiler model RS-112, ser- 35044173, Thanks,
  4. A 1950's home. This panel box is being used as a subpanel. The fuses are labeled as controlling the furnace, pump, "appl" and "gar/disp". This panel is feed, by what looks like SE cable, from a newer 150 main service panel with breakers. This subpanlel has no grounding wires in it. The junction box picture (poor) is where one of the circuits from the subpanel connects to a romex cable feeding the furnace and the grounding wire from the romex is connected to the junction box with a small green metal clip. The junction box was not grounded to anything I could see. I'm pretty sure disposals, furnace fans, etc. need to be grounded. So I believe it is not wired correctly. Anyway, this confused me. Many things do. I wrote it up as subpanel not properly wired - have an electrician install the proper panel and wiring to accommodate the circuits controlled by this panel. Any comments are appreciated. Sorry for the poor picture quality and the inability to annotate them. Also, I need to learn how to put a link in the post instead of the whole picture. Thanks in advance. Image Insert: 19.78 KB Image Insert: 27.19 KB
  5. I believe this has been discussed before. I tried searching and couldn't find anything. So, I ask, humbly - do most home inspectors test for gas leaks: under what conditions; and, how? I came across something recently that made me think about this for some reason. Maybe I take this for granted more than I should. I thinking about natural gas and propane and appreciate any guidance. Thanks in advance for any guidance.
  6. Thanks guys. Enjoy the holidays Oh, Other than aesthetics, I guess there's no reason not to have a boiler and W/H in the kitchen
  7. I was a taken back when I saw the HVAC unit and water heater installed in the kitchen, a first for me. I checked the IRC and I believe I found the places they could not be, which didn’t include a kitchen. So, are there any technical or safety type reasons not to install these units in a kitchen? Also, I’m having trouble determining the age of the Sears/Dunkirk boiler (series PW41 Model 229 963440 Serial 29830015). Thanks in advance. Image Insert: 559.52 KB
  8. In Three months meaning the 2008 NEC? Are GFCI requirements changing too? I've heard some thngs about AFCI's being required in more places. I guess we'll all need to be up on he new stuff fairly quickly.
  9. Now I'll really have to show my ignorance. I don't think it had a bypass duct. It had a humidifier(it wasn't on) in the only return I saw and I don't recall seeing anything that looked like what might be a bypass duct. I saw all 4 zone dampers on the supplies, nothing on returns (that I saw). I will get a humidity tester for future problems like this. The zones didn't operate properly. For example when only zone 1 should have been cooling, zone 4 was also cooling. I'm not sure why this house was zoned anyway, especially 4 zones, 2 on each floor of a 2 story 2600 sq. ft. house. I did recommend the owners get the Carrier regional technical guru out. I really appreciate all the help you guys provided. In addition to helping the clients, I sure learned alot. Thanks, Jim
  10. High humidity in new 2600 sq. ft. 2-story home on a crawlspace (6 months old) with A/C running normally (65-70% Rh as indicated on t-stat) also feels very muggy and supposedly T-stat humidity reading was compared to 2 other humidity meters and compared. So we’ll assume the humidity reading is correct. The Heat Pump condenser unit is a Carrier model 25HPA324300, serial 2206E22576. From what I can find out this is a 13 SEER, 2006 model and I think the 24 may indicate 2 ton (puron). The air handler is also a carrier model 58MXB080-F-10116, serial 3405A09316, with propane backup located in the garage (ceiling mounted). These units control 4 zones from one t-stat. The clients had been complaining to the builder about the humidity and the builders HVAC person, who has been to the home a dozen times, downsized the condenser. Makes sense ? Anyway the home is still humid and the HVAC person installs a squirrel cage fan in the crawlspace access door to circulate air in the crawl; so the fan wasn’t really pulling air through the crawl. The home is still humid. While I inspected the home the A/C was running and not much condensate came out of the line. I checked the attic, ran a lot of water, crawled the entire crawlspace and nothing was wrong. The attic was as dry as a bone, nothing leaked, and the crawlspace was clean as a pin, covered completely with plastic. It was damp under the plastic but the insulation wasn’t hanging down and it was all in place. There were no signs of water infiltration around the foundation. So what things could cause the home to be so humid? Is the sizing different for the newer puron systems? Are the newer systems complicated and not well understood by your basic HVAC folks. I told these clients that I was at a loss to explain this and recommended that they request a Carrier regional technical specialist to come on site to analyze and resolve this issue. But I’m curious and I wanted to get your input. HVAC isn’t my strong area but I thought A/C removed moisture from the air and if the unit was too large and it cooled too quickly it didn’t dehumidify properly. That’s probably what the HVAC guy thought. If the 24 in the model number is for 24,000 BTU’s, is that enough to cool a 2600 sq. ft. home? Any thoughts? Thanks in advance for any help, Jim, in Calvert County, MD
  11. Mike, While I'm downloading the mega-document, what is the basic story on 203K inspections. A test, grandfathered by being a member of an association or society? Thanx,
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