JEuriech

Buster, We are currently using the 2003 IRC in my area. The following PDF shows what is required in Peoria, AZ. Hope it helps. http://www.peoriaaz.com/building/Docs/p ... CARPRT.pdf Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona

Interesting http://www.acdirect.net/systemsize.html Good Reading http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/bldg/pubs/ACsize/ Quick Reference Chart http://www.hvac-webdirect.com/sizing_refchart.html More good reading http://hem.dis.anl.gov/eehem/95/950509.html Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona

If it is too cold outside, I normally state in my report that the air conditioning was not tested and the reason why. I do not recommend a full evaluation by a licensed A/C contractor prior to closing. Maybe I should be doing that however if it's too cold, they will not start it up either. Maybe some of our cold weather friends will tell us what they put in their reports when it's too cold to test a unit. Jeff Euriech Peoria, Arizona

Anytime you operate equipment outside of the manufactures guidelines you open yourself up to possible liability if something occurs today or at a later date. It is better to stay within all guidelines. As an example, Goettl Air Conditioning Installation Manual says, "Do not operate this unit at outdoor temperatures below 60°F." Goettl Heat Pump Installation Manual says, "Do not operate this unit at outdoor temperatures below 60°F on cooling nor above 75°F on heating." If need be you can always print out the installation manuals and show it to your customers. Some examples: http://www.goettl.com/manuals/GoettlMan ... 9-0505.pdf http://www.thermopride.com/Manuals/13_SEERAC_I&O.pdf Most manufactures will require a low ambient kit to be installed if you are going to use the air conditioning unit during cooler months. (under 65 degrees) An example of what may be required: 1. There should be a crankcase heater installed on compressor. 2. A low ambient control (45° contact) added to the 24 volt control circuit. 3. Suction line accumulator. 4. Confirm compressor superheat. These items will assist in preventing liquid floodback, flooded starts, and refrigerant migration during off cycle. These situations are detrimental to the life of a compressor. Most home inspectors will not be able to tell if a low ambient kit has been installed on a unit. It is better to assume it has not been installed and only use the unit at above 60 or 65 degrees. Now in real life, we all know that you can run a unit under 65 degrees. It is done all the time. Last Thanksgiving, the news had said it was 55 degrees outside in Phoenix. As I went to take the dog to the back yard, I was amazed at how many A/C units were running in my neighborhood. It was a result of all the cooking that was being done that day. Yet I did not see a single air conditioning truck in my area the next day. Amazing. How far under the recommend temperatures can you safely operate a unit? I go based on three factors: A. What is the ambient temperature? The lower the outside temperature is, the greater the chance of having problems. B. What is the indoor temperature? The lower the inside temperature is, the greater the chance of having problems. C. How long are you going to run the unit? The longer you run the unit the greater the chance of having problems. Example: If the outside temperature is 55 degrees and the inside temperature is 75 degrees, I will run the unit. There is more than enough heat in the house to prevent liquid refrigerant from going back to the compressor and causing damage. There again, I only run the unit for about 5-10 minutes. If the outside temperature is 55 degrees and the inside temperature is 60 degrees, I will not run the unit. There may not be enough heat in the house to prevent liquid refrigerant from going back to the compressor. Other factors for your consideration: 1. All manufactures build in safety factors for their equipment. They know that if you tell a homeowner not to go below a certain temperature, they will operate their unit under that temperature anyway. So they move their temperatures up accordingly. 2. On the Thermo Pride Installation PDF you will see were they tell the installer to not operate the air conditioner on a day of 45° F or cooler. Interesting. 3. Liquid refrigerant will not compress in the compressor. Only gas will. If a large enough slug of liquid made it to the compressor you may damage it. However, for the most part, liquid refrigerant will mix in with the gas refrigerant and pass on through the compressor. 4. If you ask 20 home inspectors or A/C repairmen the minimum temperature for operating a unit, you will get 20 different answers. Interesting. 5. I agree with Terry. Running A/C when it's cooler will give incorrect Delta T's (temperature drop) across the evaporator. I do not test the splits. I tell my customers that the compressor started, the outdoor fan is running, the indoor blower is working, and I have cold air. I only test heat pumps in one mode only, not both modes. 6. I tend to run the air conditioning units under the recommended temperatures as a result of being trained in this field a long time ago. How does that saying go? Do as I say and not as I do. Follow all guidelines. Jeff Euriech Peoria, Arizona

I agree with Captain. Most likely low on refrigerant. The following is some other things that may be causing the problem: Anything that prevents proper heat transfer. Low air flow from: 1. Bad indoor fan motor - not running or running slow 2. Clogged or blocked air filter 3. Supply and or return vents closed 4. Kinked ducts 5. Blockage in ducts 6. Extremely dirty or damaged indoor coil 7. Bad indoor fan relay 8. Clogged blower wheel. Insulation will sometimes come loose inside the air handler and cause this problem. 9. Improperly sized ducts Anything that changes where "change of state" occurs in the indoor coil. Such as: 1. Partial blocked capillary tube 2. Low refrigerant charge (Why is it low? Leak in system?) 3. Faulty expansion valve 4. Blocked orifice Others things that may cause icing: 1. Faulty thermostat 2. Setting the thermostat too low (running the A/C under 70 degrees) 3. Running air conditioning with windows open If I can recall anything else, I will post it later. In a new house I would suspect a refrigerant leak somewhere and the unit is low on freon. On an older house I would start with reduced air flow first and low freon second. Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona

Great information.. Thanks, Jeff Euriech Peoria, Arizona

In an electrical panel box, I often find mixed or different name brand breakers. Last week on a two year old house I found a GE panel with all Square D breakers inside of it. I took a picture of the sticker in the panel that said, "Use only GE type breakers, use of other circuit breakers voids the warranty, may void the UL listing and could result in property loss or personal injury," and included it in my report. I have been told by other inspectors that they do not call this out as a major defect. They only put it in their report for information purposes. Am I correct in calling this out as a defect and referring it to an electrician? I have yet to see any problems related to different name brand breakers in a panel box. Are problems common with this type of thing? I know that different panel boxes say to use only approved breakers which I can normally find listed inside the front cover. Is there a cross reference list somewhere that tells you what breakers can go into what boxes? Thanks, Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona

Norm, It was a 120 volt light. No transformer present. The buyer asked me if I stuck my hand in the water to see what would happen? I told her that after I saw the smoke bubbles, I wasn't going to get anywhere close to electricity and water. Jeff Euriech Peoria, Arizona

Thanks for the warm welcome. I'm sure that I will be learning a lot from everyone on this message board. Jeff Euriech Peoria, Arizona

I tend to find a lot of swimming pools with unsafe conditions. As a result, I usually do a limited inspection of swimming pools as a way of life. I inspected a 1978 house a couple of days ago that had a swimming pool. The GFI outlet was missing from the sub-panel/timer box. There was only a large hole where the GFI used to be. Obviously a safety concern. I turned the pool light on to see if it worked and walked over to the pool. The pool light was off. However, there was a large bubble coming up from the pool light to the surface. Another bubble followed about a foot behind and then another bubble. When the bubbles broke through the surface they were white smoke. I had smoke hanging over the end of the pool. I quickly turned the power off to the pool light. What caused the smoke bubbles? If the light had shorted out, you would think the breaker would have tripped. Any guesses? Jeff Euriech Peoria, AZ

Thanks Brian. I'm the new kid (senior citizen) on the Northwest side of Phoenix. I am slowly increasing my business and hopefully will make money at this one of these days. One of my goals for the next year is to more actively participate on the different message boards. So you will probably see more of me in the future. Hopefully you will not laugh too hard at some of the questions that I may ask. I guess time will tell... Jeff Euriech Peoria, AZ

From CertainTeed : The starter strip should overhang the rakes and eaves 1/2" when drip edge is used or 3/4" when no drip edge is used. See Shingle installation at: http://www.certainteed.com/CertainTeed/ ... hingle.htm Jeff Euriech Peoria AZ

Dave, Most of the RO systems that I see have an air gap built into the faucet/handle combination. Depending on which way the assembly is turned, you can see the drain water dropping through the air gap. I will normally run some RO water for about 30 seconds and the pressure in the system will start to drop. A valve will then switch on the unit allowing make up water to go to the membrane and drain water to occur. You can normally hear the water dropping through the air gap at the faucet. Some of the older units do not have a built in air gap in the faucet. They will instead have a flow control/check valve located on the drain line to prevent a backward flow from the drain to the RO membrane. The ones I see are small plastic valves with an arrow on them showing direction of flow. Maybe 2" long and 3/4" in diameter. These are normally hidden behind junk. You have to look for them. I hope this helps, Jeff Euriech Peoria, AZ