JEuriech
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Mike, Just for the fun of it, where is the low voltage transformer? On a split system, when you call for cooling, doesn’t the outdoor relay/contactor click on even if you don’t have power to the unit? If there is no power to the unit due to a blown fuse or circuit breaker being turned off, I suspect that you may still hear the contactor turning on or off. Jeff
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John, See attachment. Jeff Oily Residue 0110DB0301[1].pdf
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Kimi, I am starting to see more gas tankless water heaters in my area. However, most of them have the same problems. They may not activate with low water flow. I often have to turn on two sinks at the same time to get the water heater to turn on. This seems to get worse with time. (may be related to the hard water conditions that we have here) I have only seen two electric tankless water heaters. They seem to draw a ton of electricity while in use. Also, the water seemed to take longer to heat up. Good luck with your choice Jeff
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Thanks Jim.... Good information. Jeff .
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What is this blue thing on the dryer 30 amp breaker and what is it supposed to be used for? None of the other breakers had one. Thanks, Jeff Euriech Click to Enlarge 52.54 KB Click to Enlarge 52.37 KB
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Would the flat spots (indentations) on the neutral wires where they were previously tightened, be an area of concern? Thank, Jeff Euriech Download Attachment: 1A 100116 014.JPG 681.08 KB
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John, I know that the attachment is not from your area. However, it will give you some of the more commonly used numbers. See page 2. Jeff . Download Attachment: Gas Meter 2009 Requirements 3885.pdf 261.24 KB
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I inspected a fourplex about four weeks ago. One unit had a wood burning fireplace with vertical cracks on the exterior chimney. Could someone explain to me what might have caused these cracks? (the fourplex was built back in 1973) Most of the cracks that I saw were vertical in nature on at least two sides of the chimney. The cracks tended to outline the flue area. The seller is going to have the chimney torn down to the roof line and rebuilt. What should the contractor do differently to prevent the cracks from reoccurring in the future? On the third picture, the layers of block appear to be at different heights on two different sides. Would this contribute to potential future problems when they go to rebuild the chimney? Thanks, Jeff Euriech Download Attachment: Chimney 001.JPG 696.93 KB Download Attachment: Chimney 003.JPG 627.62 KB Download Attachment: Chimney 062.JPG 483.1 KB Download Attachment: Chimney 065.JPG 389.98 KB
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If I were to guess: A. Different Freon. (refrigerants) B. Different manufactured dates. Different model years. C. Came from two different plants. D. One is a heat pump and one is an air conditioner. Do you have both data plate pictures that we can see? Jeff .
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Marc The seal weep hole had water in it. However, water does not come out when the air handler is off. Condensation must drain pass the hole only. The RA cabinet grill in the entry area was sealed with caulking and I was unable to take it off. However, I did try to take some pictures through the grill. They didn't turn out very well. I can see a p-trap and what looks like an air vent. Jeff Click to Enlarge 23.49 KB Click to Enlarge 25.02 KB Click to Enlarge 27.48 KB
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My inspection yesterday had two split 5 year old Trane heat pumps. One air handler was in the second floor hall closet. The other air handler was in the garage. When I went by the air handler in the garage, I could hear a gurgling sound as if air was being pulled through water. I found a small square hole by the bottom condensation pipe. (actually between the bottom right primary drain connection and the left secondary drain connection) I have not been able to find the installer's guide for this model air handler. However, other Trane (American Standard) guides call this a "Seal weep hole". What is a seal weep hole and what purpose does it have? Should I be able to hear water gurgling from it? The second floor air handler had no noise coming from it. (p-trap is under the unit in the stand area) Thanks, Jeff Click to Enlarge 34.35 KB Click to Enlarge 41.37 KB Click to Enlarge 29.24 KB Click to Enlarge 25.97 KB
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Low density, open cell SPF weighs between 0.4 to 0.6 lbs per cubic ft when fully cured. The SPF has an R-value around 3.5 per inch. Closed cell SPF weighs between 1.5 to 2 lbs per cubic ft when fully cured. The SPF has an R-value of around 6.0 per inch (aged R-value) See some of the following web sites for more information: http://www.sprayfoam.org/ http://www.sprayfoam.com/ Jeff Euriech Arizona Prime Property Inspection LLC
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Jerry, If I recall correctly, water heaters have different types of back draft sensors. I have heard them called ECO probe, temperature sensors, and temperature probes. If the flame flattens out or the probe gets too hot, it will kill the unit. If it is an ECO probe, the complete gas valve has to be replaced. If it is a temperature probe, you have to wait for everything to cool down before relighting the pilot light. (check to see if there is any type of drafting issues or a dirty thermal coupler) I have also heard of condensation dripping on the pilot light and putting it out. Jeff Euriech Arizona Prime Property Inspection LLC Peoria Arizona
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Thanks for the good information. I will make sure it gets passed back to the buyers. Jeff
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The house I inspected today, all the neutral wires were too short in the electrical panel. Someone had spliced three or more neutral wires together in different groups with one wire going on up to the neutral busbar. While I assume this to be wrong, I do not know why. I know that you cannot put two neutral wires together under one screw on the neutral busbar because you cannot isolate each circuit when you work on them. Plus each screw is only rated for the one neutral wire. Is there something that says that neutral wires cannot be tied together with only one wire going back to the busbar? (this was only a 13 year old house, looked like the original panel) Thanks, Jeff Euriech Arizona Prime Property Inspection LLC Click to Enlarge 29.08 KB Click to Enlarge 40.37 KB Click to Enlarge 49.03 KB
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John Thanks for doing the test... Good information. Jeff .
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When we test a GFCI and it will not reset, I have heard in the past that it may not be a bad GFCI. It could be that the line and load wires have been reversed on the GFCI when it was installed. I have also heard that border line or lower voltage may keep the GFCI from resetting. We should not automatically assume that the GFCI is bad and call for replacement. Will low voltage or line and load wires reversed keep the GFCI from resetting? Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona
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I ran across my first CatGenie today. They are a self flushing, self washing litter box. This one was located in the laundry area. Water comes from the washing machine cold water side and the waste goes to the washing machine drain pipe. Does anyone know if these have some sort of built-in anti-siphon device? http://www.catgenie.com/media/manuals/c ... -Guide.pdf Download Attachment: 101912 047.JPG 412.65 KB Download Attachment: 101912 048.JPG 377.35 KB Jeff Euriech Peoria, Arizona
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A quick heads up. About six months ago I was looking to buy another flashlight. I found the Ultrafire Wf 502b Cree Xml T6 3 Mode Cree Led Flashlight 900 Lumens on Amazon and decided to get one. I have been very impressed with the flashlight. I can get about three inspections out of the flashlight before I have to recharge the battery. The only disadvantage is that it uses a 3.7V Rechargeable Li-Ion Battery. A charger plus two batteries cost $14.59. (no batteries come with the flashlight) The good news is the flashlight only cost $15.72 each. I just order five more flashlights as backup. All five showed up today from Hong Kong. All five flashlights work just fine. (gives me a grand total of 6 flashlights) It took a total of eleven days from the time I ordered to the time I received my order. With the flashlights being this cheap, I can afford to throw a flashlight away if it goes bad. More than likely I will keep the bad flashlight for parts. If you are in the market for a new flashlight, you may want to take a look at these. Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona
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Here's a couple of pictures of dirty, bent fins, frozen coils. Jeff Euriech Download Attachment: AC 103.jpg 381.91 KB Download Attachment: AC 104.jpg 355.74 KB Download Attachment: AC 105.jpg 373.08 KB Download Attachment: AC 89.JPG 194.23 KB Download Attachment: AC 69.jpg 441.1 KB Download Attachment: AC 70.jpg 430.14 KB Download Attachment: AC 53.jpg 402.37 KB
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How do you go about determining the "R" rating on a sprayed foam attic ceiling? The minimum rating here for an attic is R-30. Does 4-5" equal an R-30 rating? I could not find an insulation certificate to use. Thanks, Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona Download Attachment: 1A SF 11.JPG 439.28 KB Download Attachment: 1A SF 13.JPG 416.02 KB
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In the garage area of this attic, the electrical cables got coated with sprayed polyurethane foam. It is not uncommon for attic temperatures here to reach over 140 degrees in the summer time. Is it safe to assume that all these cables should now be derated or how would you go about fixing the problem? Thanks, Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona Download Attachment: 1A SF 6.JPG 447.49 KB Download Attachment: 1A SF 7.JPG 515.17 KB
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This past week, I did a one year warranty inspection on a house that had sprayed foam on the attic ceiling. I assume this is what everyone calls sprayed polyurethane foam. My next couple of posts will be about the same house and I'm hoping someone can help explain a couple of things for me. The main house and garage area were separated by a wall. The garage area only has insulation on the wall between the two areas. How can you tell by looking at the insulation, if it is open or closed cell? If I cut the insulation open, does one insulation have more or larger air (gas) bubbles? When we are talking about 1/2 lb or 2 lb insulation, how do you tell the difference? Thanks, Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona Download Attachment: 1A SF 2.JPG 443.51 KB Download Attachment: 1A SF 8.JPG 687.85 KB Download Attachment: 1A SF 14.JPG 694.3 KB
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1ft Height From Collar for a Water Heater Vent?
JEuriech replied to hausdok's topic in Plumbing Forum
Everything that I have seen so far makes reference to a minimum one foot connector rise for two or more appliances. I have not see anything related to one appliance all by itself. See Table G2428.3 (1) or G2428.3(2) in the 2006 IRC. Even DuraVent makes reference to "plan a minimum of one foot vertical connector rise coming out of each appliance" This would indicate to me two or more appliances. However, I have never seen a problem in my area either way. Jeff Euriech Peoria Arizona
