Inspectorjoe

I've thought about doing these walk-through inspections myself, but I've always written off the idea because of the insurance issue. What do you do about insurance? I doubt that you could get coverage for something like that. I surely wouldn't want to do them bare. You're bound to miss stuff on a quick walk-through. Without a written report, the chance of getting sued is probably pretty small, but the possibility is still there.

Wow, this is a timely thread. Earlier this week, I did an inspection on a 4 year old house. Other than having more safety issues than are normally found in a 4 year old house, the only potentially significant concern was some rafter problems. The cuts at the ridge board were very sloppy with large gaps, some cracks in the rafters at these areas and opposing rafters offset way too much. All things that shouldn't have been too hard to correct. The next day, I get an email from the listing agent, asking for a copy of the report. In Pennsylvania, the seller is entitled to a copy. The law (Senate Bill 1032) states: "The seller shall have the right, upon request, to receive without charge a copy of a home inspection report from the person for whom it was prepared." I don't know why she asked me for it, since the request is normally made to the buyer's agent, but I didn't have a problem calling the buyer for permission to do it, and then sending the access codes to the listing agent. As I was speaking to the buyer, he informed me that "the house is a disaster" and he's backing out of the deal. The house wasn't a disaster by any stretch of the imagination, but if the buyer feels that it is, I'm not going to argue with him. There might be other issues, with the report being just an 'out' for him. Fast forward to yesterday when I get another email from the listing agent, copied below, with my replies in italics. > Thanks for forwarding the report for 157 W*****. The > seller is addressing many of the "concerns" in the report. > This buyer, the F****'s, however have apparently decided > there were too many problems. The seller is very > concerned that the concerns were presented in a way that > alarmed them there were major problems. Many of the > safety items are for things that likely were not required > when the home was built. Most safety issues are covered under building codes. While home inspectors are not code inspectors, we do use codes as guidance. It is virtually impossible to know which version of which code a particular municipality was using when a particular house was constructed. For instance, the lack of returns on the railings is in the 2003 International Residential Code (section 311.5.6.2), but goes back to at least the 1997 Uniform Building Code (section 1003.3.3.3.6). Other safety issues are not covered under building codes, but are required by the manufacturer. An example of this is the installation of range anti-tip brackets. Others are simply common sense, such as recommending the installation of carbon monoxide detectors in a house that has combustion appliances and/or an attached garage . I would be remiss if I didn’t include all known safety issues in the report, regardless of whether they were “requiredâ€

I can vouch for that. I have sleep apnea. An overnight sleep study showed that I stopped breathing over 450 times. On a second night, they fitted me with a mask and CPAP machine, which is a blower that forces a continuous positive air pressure into the mask. That first time they waited until I was asleep to turn it on, and then slowly increased the pressure. When I woke up that morning, I instantly went into panic mode. I can't breath! Something's wrong with this thing! I ripped the mask off my face and breathed in some air. Just then the tech asked through the intercom "do you want to end the study now?" It turned out that nothing had gone wrong at all. I got used to breathing through that thing in no time. It has several "ramp up" modes, where is slowly increases pressure over time, but I stopped using it after a week and just turned it on full at the start. What's really strange, is if the power goes out during the night, it wakes me up because not having the pressure seems abnormal.

Steven, I don't want to embarrass you, but I wanted to post a public thank you, so the other members know just what kind of guy you are: Steven said he had +/- 60 sf of flooring. It turned out to be 70 sf, brand new, in perfect condition. I was really floored (pun intended) when I saw it. He lugged it back and forth from Manhattan (twice), stored it in his garage, took it out of his garage and back in his van again so he could load it into my van. For all of this, he wouldn't take a dime for his efforts. Thank you, Steven. You are right, "we're all brothers." Image Insert: 55.51 KB Brazilian Cherry is VERY heavy. I'm not going to attach it to the house as I had planned. I'll use horizontal battens attached to posts. I'm installing the flooring vertically and cutting the horizontal joints at a 45 degree angle to shed the water outward. I'm going to try Stevens suggestion to use an oil finish. I'll post a pic when it's done.

Les, I'm in total agreement. I wish I had been given that advice! Image Insert: 62.55 KB

John, I can't give you any advice on those three things, because like you, I don't have them in my area. Any questions on those would be a tiny percentage of the overall test, so I wouldn't spend too much time boning up on them. Here's a little info on swamp coolers:http://www.discoverhorizon.com/hrb/HHRB.aspx?id=1711&DROPDOWN=6844 What I can tell you is that you're going to do fine on the test. From reading your posts, it's obvious that you this seriously, and have a bright and inquisitive mind. You'll undoubtedly be better prepared than most of the other test takers. Get a good night's sleep the night before and have dinner reservations made for a celebration that evening. Good luck!

Like Jesse said, odds are only one head will be going off. There can be a problem with supply adequacy when a system is supplied by a well. I've seen a few sprinklered rural houses that had a 500-1,000 gallon storage tanks along with booster pumps in the basement. Years ago I worked in a fully sprinklered downtown department store. The roughly 50,000 sf building was a hodgepodge of different buildings and additions cobbled together. Throw in lots of false ceilings and you have a place that you don't ever want to have a fire really get going. There were hundreds of sprinkler heads throughout the building. The main coming in from the street was 8" and the pressure was around 140 PSI. There were a few fire hoses as part of the system. The store went out of business, leaving me unemployed. I jumped at the chance when the bank that took the building over asked if I was interested in being a caretaker, making sure the heat was on, the snow shoveled etc. I invoiced the bank monthly for my hours. One frigid winter night I got a call from the alarm monitoring company telling me that the water flow alarm was activated. I hustled over to find water flowing out the back door like a stream was running though the building. I thought to myself, 'I'm about to find out just how good my liability insurance is'. I found the boiler was out (I never got a call that the cold alarm had activated), and a 1" sprinkler pipe above the rear vestibule had frozen and broken. What a friggin' mess. Shortly after I got the water turned off a few strangers arrived. One was a bank executive. I didn't know him and he had no idea who I was. It turned out that the guy at the bank that contracted me had been let go, and his boss didn't know of our arrangement. The other guys turned out be with the company that the new bank exec had contracted to oversee the building several weeks before. You can't imagine the feeling of relief I felt as I handed my keys over and walked out the door, leaving any liability behind. I ate my final invoice. I sure dodged a bullet that night.

Joe I don't why my actions are detrimental. I can't see all of the heat exchanger in a furnace. Does that mean I shouldn't look at the furnace at all? No. I should inspect as much as I can. Jesse: You do tell the buyer that you didn't see, and therefore didn't inspect all of the heat exchanger, don't you? I hope you do. Then why not do the same for the sprinkler system? You wrote: No, I do not usually recommend an expert for a sprinkler system. I'll try to find the shutoffs, and make sure the water is on to the system. I'll check to see if there are heads on a wet system in an area that might freeze(that's bad). There's more to inspecting a residential system than you mentioned. Unless you left some of your routine out, you're only doing a partial inspection. While I wouldn't do that, it's OK as long as the buyer is fully informed (and it's in the report) that the system wasn't fully inspected. Not doing that can give the buyer a false sense of security and leave you on the hook. You also wrote: In commercial, industrial, and large multi-family buildings, they'll be required to actively test the system regularly. That assumes, of course, that the AHJ is paying attention. Single family, and small multi-family, systems that run on basic residential water service, are generally not policed. That's the stuff you see tapped off the regular water service entrance. I think that's exactly why the buyer should be advised to have a pro do a full inspection on the system. Odds are, it hasn't been inspected in quite a while (if ever) and it won't be done regularly in the future.

There are a multitude of things to look for and do when inspecting a fire sprinkler system. They range from checking design aspects such as piping size and the number and location of sprinkler heads to inspection and/or operation of of the water flow switch, flow alarm, check valve, pressure gauge, test/drain assembly, etc. This is covered in NFPA 25: Standard for the Inspection, Testing, and Maintenance of Water-Based Fire Protection Systems. Section 4.1.2.3 states that "These tasks shall be performed by personnel who have developed competence through training and experience". Unless you have that training and experience (which you may have, I don't know), I think you're doing the buyer a disservice, and taking on unnecessary liability by doing a partial inspection.

You're probably thinking of the Central Sprinkler Omega head recall. It ends August 31. http://www.cpsc.gov/CPSCPUB/PREREL/PRHTML01/01201.html I don't know of any SoP that includes identifying recalled items. I specifically disclaim sprinkler systems in my contract. I include them in the report, but only to state that the system wasn't inspected and to make a recommendation that it be inspected by a qualified technician. As far as other recalls, with a few exceptions, I don't comment on them. There's no way I'm going to spend time matching up models and serial numbers to recall lists. There are a couple that are so widely known, such as Plexvent and Ultravent that I'd better know and include.

chicago Posted - Jul 28 2007 : 12:35:23 PM: "I check it with the reset button at the panel." You check it with the reset button? I'm intrigued. I've been using the test button. It sounds like I can save a step with your method.[] AHI Posted - Jul 29 2007 : 05:01:28 AM: "I will suggest that they shut down any computer systems if at all possible. I wont have a problem going back and setting clocks. How long could that take? If I miss one, oh well. They were discussed in the beginning anyway." I don't test AFCI's in occupied houses. I disclaim them and recommend the buyer test them before they move into the house. If I accidentally trip a breaker on bedroom circuit I don't reset the clocks, since I can't know what wake up time they were programmed for. A flashing clock lets the owner know to do it (homeowners are rarely at the inspection 'round these parts). I'd rather have a homeowner mildly annoyed from having to reset a clock to a seriously ticked off one who was late for work.

You can probably find what you need in a thread from just a month ago: https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=5029

I saw this sign at the back door of a house today. I can't decide if it's for real or just a gag gift sign: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1348/931363211_df2370b4c3_o.jpg http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1061/932215426_eb9e534ef3_o.jpg There is a list of 50 possible visitors to the house and the corresponding Morse Code-like pattern of rings that the visitor would use to announce who is calling. After announcing who is at the door, the caller waits for one of eight possible replies. The visitor list includes the butcher, the baker, but no candlestick maker. I saw inspector listed, so I dutifully signalled with two short, two long and one short ring. I waited ....... and waited ...... I didn't wait too long though, since the house was vacant.[] Engraved at the bottom is: Copyrighted 1933 in U.S.A. and 1937 in Canada by Michael Slawiensky".

Sorry for the break in answering. An unusual thing happened - I got fairly busy. It was a short lived spurt however. StevenT Posted - Jul 18 2007 : 7:58:00 PM: Joe, I'll probably have more than enough left over. The floors are already installed, finishing starts Monday. I'll need a little to mill a few pieces for trim that I'm trying to match. I'll ask for the rest. Whatever I get is yours. Steven, If you were able to get it and if you still have it, I'm interested. I'm not all that close to LI, but it would be worth a trip if the cost is low. Sorry I didn't get back to you right away. My # is 610-392-3741. inspecthistoric Posted - Jul 18 2007 : 8:57:21 PM: Does it have to be wood? You're a few minutes away from the slate belt, with billions of tons of free scrap PA slate. You have free Portland cement under your lawn. I really envy the owner of this house in Chapman. Now there's easy access to free scrap! http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1169/891823906_c150cb6ff0_o.jpg As far as free Portland cement under the lawn, the nearby blasting has probably loosened it up real nice, but I lack a kiln that I can get fired up to 2,700 degrees to form the clinker. Mike Lamb Posted: Jul 19 2007 - 1:38:14 PM: Buy a cheap fiberglass shower stall. This will be water proof and will give you some soap trays, etc. Use only one wall. Cut holes in it for your fixture. Frame yourself a little wall away from the house at least 24". You'll need to get behind it. I think attaching to the house is a bad idea. Build a wood grate floor for the shower out of 2 x 2's (they are easy on the feet) so you are not standing on dirt. Make sure grade beneath runs away from house. The very light weight wall you make gets attached to the floor you make and then arms or something on the sides keep it upright. Screw the fiberglass shower wall to your framed wall. Run hot and cold water valves behind the shower from the house. Use clothes washer hose to run to the fixture. This makes disconnecting stuff damned simple. You could also use hose to the shower head though mine is hard piped with plastic. A Fiberglas stall would look tacky. There's too much tackiness in my life already. I don't see a problem attaching it to a wall. Mounted on battens, it will have an air space behind it. I can't go out 24 '', because the shower valve is actually going to be a hose bib: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1173/891823172_b0965ac435_o.jpg I am planning to use 2X2's for flooring. The floor structure is going to be separate from the wall structure. If there's any settling or frost heaving, I don't want the plumbing connections to be stressed. I have bushes and lattice blinds on the side of the shower for some privacy. Next time I'm in Mich. at my summer place I will take some pictures. Showering outdoors gives one a wonderful and liberating feeling that is beyond the scope of this discussion. I agree. I have no need for privacy at the shower since my entire backyard is surrounded by tall Leyland Cypresses. Even my neighbor Gladys Kravitz doesn't see what's goin' on back there: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1076/890982883_4ee426f78c_o.jpg If you are dead set on wood walls, I'd go with cedar or something pressure treated. I'm wondering if some nice cedar or redwood fencing might be a way to go.

Why would you need a shower for the well? OK, OK ....... I'll be signing up for Bonnie's next class. Seriously (just a little), I'm having a hard time picturing the aesthetics of the whole thing. If it's going next to the discarded fridge and the ratty sofa, then maybe corrugated steel would be a good choice. At the other end of the scale, it could be a distinctive art tile job. We're talking a little bit higher-end than discarded fridge and the ratty sofa, but not much. If Joe would post a fairly wide picture of the area, maybe someone can photoshop in a few "textures". If y'all promise not to comment on the vegetation hugging the siding, the flat grade, the high risers ........... here's a picture of the area: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1131/848411076_7166d9c811_o.jpg Holding my MS Paint skills out for all to ridicule, here's what I want to do: http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1316/847548447_b5378738eb_o.jpg I want a solid impervious wall attached to the house. The shower valve will be a Moen hot and cold frost free hose bib. A hand held shower head will be attached to the wall. During freezing weather, simply laying the shower head down on the deck will allow the hose bib to drain, preventing freeze damage. A small deck will have a wet side and a dry side with a small corner bench. Below the deck will be some kind of drain pan, draining to a dry well. I still haven't figured out what to use for the pan. I bought a washing machine overflow pan, but I'm thinking that might crack in freezing temps. Maybe rubber pond liner would be better. Kurt, thanks for sharing your experience. Any North American hardwood is now off the table. I googled ipe and found it pretty intriguing. That would need a lot less finish and would weather a lot better. Steven, thanks for the offer of the Brazilian Cherry. I'd need a little over 48 square feet. Depending on the size of your job, that's a lot to have left over.

White Oak it will be, since that's most likely the cheapest (I haven't exactly been swamped with inspections lately). Thanks for the tip on sealing all four sides. I'd like to say I would have thought of it myself before I installed it, but ........... Shellac? You can still get shellac? I haven't seen (or smelled) shellac since I was a little kid. Isn't that made from beetle wings, or beetle shells or something like that? Edit A quick Google search answered my questions: http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/jeff/shellac.htm

For several years, I've wanted to put a shower in the backyard, to be used for the pool, the hot tub and well, just because it's cool to take a shower outdoors. It's going against the back wall of the house, which is aluminum siding. I've been racking my brain to come up with a material to put against the siding. I toyed with and discounted a lot of materials, but today I think I came up with a winner - 3/4" oak flooring. I'll screw vertical battens against the siding, into the studs and screw the flooring to the battens horizontally, tongue side up. I figure with some sanding and a couple of coats of marine varnish, it should hold up pretty well. It'll be under a 24" soffit. Anybody see any problems with this?

I don’t like to clutter up the report with too many “these are OK’sâ€

There is some worthwhile TV out there. I try not to miss Countdown with Keith Olberman and The Daily Show. I used to watch CBS's Sunday Morning religiously, but it's just a shadow of what it used to be, especially when compared to the Charles Kuralt era.

That's an option that a homeowner may wish to consider, but it's not done for a test conducted as part of a real estate transaction. If a second test is done, the average of both tests would be used. The only time two tests would be done during a transaction is when using passive devices, two tests are done simultaneously, placed side by side, or two tests are done consecutively. In both cases, the two tests would be averaged, regardless of the levels.

Yeah Mike, that wasn't very nice, was it? I would have liked to join you guys in the weight-off, but I have to maintain the weight I have for business reasons: I've developed a new concept for a unique eatery franchise and I'm the spokesmodel. What do you think? http://www2.enter.net/photoalbum/data/natan/120301.jpg Seriously though, I'd love to join the group, but I know I wouldn't have the discipline. At 6'0" and 265 pounds, I definitely should lose weight. The problem is that I REALLY like to eat. BTW, I wasn't kidding about the sausage sandwich and potato salad bedtime snack. Seeing my dad drop dead from a heart attack when I was 13 should probably be enough of a motivator, but it's not. You guys have my admiration for doing this. Good luck to you all.

Yesterday I grilled over 10 pounds of chicken, 5 pounds of hamburgers and 5 pounds of hot Italian sausage. I have a bunch left over. Gotta go - it's time for my sausage sandwich and potato salad bedtime snack. [:-devil] Image Insert: 61.9 KB

They were originally used in the ASHI Reporter's Postcards from the Field. I wonder if TOH got permission from the photo owners to use them. Scott? http://www.thisoldhouse.com/toh/tohnews/gallery/0,25895,1569371-9,00.html

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Aw, you had me going there for a while, Les. I was hoping I could get a respirator recommendation. I figured if a respirator could cut the mustard on manure spreadin' day, handling crawlspace and attic dust would be a piece of cake. BTW, what's wrong with projects that make no money?