cbass

here is another picture... Click to Enlarge 7.28 KB

Any of you guys know what this is? It had a very small cord, in conduit that went up into the attic of a 36 yr old condo. Looked pretty new. The only writing on it was a warning sign for a laser. Click to Enlarge 5.91 KB

wow, thats interesting, this came from a 52 year old home.

I dont think I've seen this before. Click to Enlarge 33.78 KB

Fenix tk21, super bright and small.

No issue being too close to the decking?

Are you guys aware of the clearance requirements for a sidewall flue for a gas fireplace? This is a Trex deck. Thanks in advance. Click to Enlarge 35.18 KB

I bought one of those cheap ultrafire lights a while ago and it never worked. Not from day one.

Thanks Bill

Yea, I mentioned all the condensation and to get a cert from an HVAC specialist. The flue pipe was actually touching the oil fill line at one point with no supports at all. What a mess.

I also wanted to mention that i have seen this type of setup with high efficiency gas furnaces. I was under the impression that these could only be used with systems of higher efficiency than oil systems. In the field, how would one determine if this, or any other sidewall flue system can be used (assuming the manual is not available).

I was at a house today with an oil fired furnace with what appeared to be a single walled steel concentric flue system (that terminated under a window). I have never seen a setup quite like this. The flue pipe is flexible and just draped over to the foundation wall. The whole setup was strange. A 9 year old furnace with a carrier coil/plenum, a payne compressor and a Parrsboro Metal Fabricators (i live in PA-Never saw one of these before [apparently a Canadian company]...). All original to the home. i cant find any information on sidewall flues/concentric systems with oil fired systems. When and how do you know it is ok (from a home inspectors standpoint) to use such a flue pipe? Any/all information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Download Attachment: P9190016.JPG 483.38 KB Download Attachment: P9190019.JPG 490.17 KB Download Attachment: P9190020.JPG 464.51 KB Download Attachment: P9190021.JPG 490.92 KB

great, thanks again guys!

Made me laugh... Click to Enlarge 30.3 KB[:-monkeyd

It was right after the water meter. Click to Enlarge 57.52 KB

The chimney was leaning pretty good... but it was definitely a WTF through the hatch... and guess what... it was leaking! (imagine that) I didnt even mention the other chimney that was only being used for the gas water heater, un-lined and was back drafting so bad it put out my lighter (heater wasnt on)!

This chimney was in use! unbelievable... Click to Enlarge 49 KB Click to Enlarge 52.79 KB

yea, thats what I saw as well.

I inspected a house the other day that had every ground wire entering the panel "pigtailed and under a single lug on the bus bar. I wrote it up to be further evaluated by an electrician. I had never seen all the grounds under a single lug before. I guess my question is this. Do you guys write up when grounds and neutrals share a lug in the main panel? Do you guys write up when multiple grounds only or multiple neutrals share a single lug on the bus bar in a main panel? thanks

Hey guys, I was at a home today with a gas FP in the basement. It had the yellow Flexible CSST gas pipe simply going through an adjacent wall (from the unfinished section of the basement), traveling un-protected and un-secured to the wall (just laying in the corner by the base molding) for about 15 feet before entering the FP. I am not familiar with the code or rules as far as this goes. Should it be boxed in or protected in some other way? Thanks. Click to Enlarge 36.53 KB

As im reading through the recent ASHI reporter i came up with a few questions that i figured you guys could help me out with. I have a 100 cutler hammer panel model number ch22ccm100, there are 24 total breaker slots including the two for the main breaker. The formula in the reporter says amps x poles divided by 10 (so i would have a total of 20 breakers according to this formula). However the model number above suggests that 22 total slots can be used. The attached picture is of the remaining slots (2) in this panel. These appear to be notched suggesting the allowance of additional tandem breakers? There is no diagram or information dictating the total number of circuits allowed. The other question i have is, how can you determine if the panel is class CTL? Please advise. I appreciate it. Click to Enlarge 51.8 KB

Hey guys, I was at a house today (55 years old) with this really interesting switch system. I was told that 50 some years ago these were high end switches that GE made. My concern was 1) are they safe? and 2) availability of replacement parts (im sure they are no longer made...). Every time that you would use a switch it would buzz and the fixture would click. There are visible "switches" in most of the fixtures that i could see that im assuming activate the certain fixture (several small wires were connected to these "switches"). It was like zoned switches, where the dial (two in home) would select a certain room and then the adjacent switch would turn lights on or off. I guess i am just looking for any and all info you guys have on them (verbiage, how often they were used, geographics etc.). Im assuming that switching back to a conventional switch system would involve significant re-wiring? Thanks in advance. Click to Enlarge 24.54 KB Click to Enlarge 35.64 KB

aw come on... you dont like gummy?

Ideas? It was really rusty. Click to Enlarge 28.26 KB

I dunno, I have the UltraStinger LED and if anything its too bright (cant really use it looking into panels easily)... Its never run out of charge on even two jobs in a day and recharges in no time. I really like the Fenix lights because of their size and the brightness is pretty much the same (I have compared the two). What I dont get about them is 1: what batteries do you guys use (re-chargeable or not), and do you charge them every day? 2: where do you put it during your inspections? (pocket, small goofy holster?)... I love my stinger (the LED ones are way better than the old ones). I hang it off my tool belt cause thats what I'm used to. I am always open to new gear, especially when it comes to down sizing, I just dont understand how you guys haul them around. I want to get one (the tk11 or whatever) to use as a backup and for crawlspaces. I actually read a post on this site a while back about a generic version of the tk11, bought it for 25 bucks and it never worked. So, I still have all the batteries (regular and rechargable) but never used them... Shed some light on me guys...