Bain

I agree, Richard, that checking for light-fixture grounding is above and beyond the call, but I still was curious about how one could determine such a thing. And . . . having replaced all of the K and T wiring in my own bungalow, and grounding each and every ceiling fixture, I voltage-sniffed several of them last night with mixed--and useless--results.

Thanks, Brian. I was aware of the fan move, but had never heard of a way to check other fixtures.

This morning, my client--who moved here from out-of-state--told me that when the house she sold was inspected, it was discovered that none of her kitchen light-fixtures were grounded and she had to make repairs. My question is how could the guy--or gal--who inspected the joint know that? Is there some groovy tester I'm unaware of? Surely the unknown inspector didn't remove escutcheon plates to check for ground wires.

I've heard of this, but don't recommend it. You supposedly spray a saline solution into the heat exchanger chambers, then hold a lighter above a register. The saline soultion, if it's mixing with conditioned air, causes the color of the lighter's flame to change . . . to pink, if I remember correctly. The apparent problem is that the saline solution can damage electronic ignitors and get an inspector in heaps of trouble.

A 1/4" per 1' slope actually isn't very much. Though it's disgusting, if there were solid matter--including tissue--in the lowermost 3" or 4" main sewage line, it could linger around and prevent drainage until more water swishes it away, hence the visible water at the bottoms of the sewer vents. As we all know, and on newer houses especially that are quite large, the drains are often sloped less than 1/4" per 1', but they typically work just fine.

The photo's a tad grainy, but that appears to be a low voltage system that controls buzzers--similar to doorbells--in each room of a house, so occupants can be signaled singularly or collectively.

Same bars, different holes. And no jokes . . . or Mike will wield his scissors without mercy. And thanks, Bill. When stated that way it makes sense. Of course.

I checked out a new house last week that had a panel containing neutrals and grounds mixed--not double-tapped--together on the two side buses. I phoned the electrical inspection dept. and was told that they only require the grounds and neutrals to be on separate buses if the main breaker is located away from the panel; like on the exterior of the house, near the meter. The logic of this escapes me.

Why would they stop, Jeff? After journeying so far? How come none of the tubes actually extend down to the ground?

I'm wondering if anyone understands the ethos of termites. As you can see in these photos from my morning appt., many of the shelter tubes are several feet long and are hanging vertically from the beam. Were these termites simply in search of more wood, or was there something else going on? Oh, and they entered the floor system by traveling up the foundation wall and sneaking through the cavity behind the foam insulation. Another reason not to use the stuff, aside from the poisonous vapors it emits when on fire. Oh, and Mike. If this should have instead been posted in the WDI forum, I apologize. Download Attachment: DSC02468.JPG 568.92 KB Download Attachment: DSC02470.JPG 568.01 KB

Gotcha, Michael, but doesn't the second unit--last second or not--still require a city/county inspection?

"Couldn't see from the ground" stuff from this morning's gig. And if you're wondering why the ridge shingles don't match the others, I haven't a clue. Download Attachment: DSC02457.JPG 616.23 KB Download Attachment: DSC02459.JPG 601.61 KB

High efficiency furnaces--i.e. 90%--shouldn't be connected to metal flue pipes. They typically vent into PVC wrapped with foam insulation. The flue gases are damp and not terribly warm. Entering an extremely cold flue pipe that's uninsulated can cause a boatload of problems--so many problems that it used to be considered lunacy to even install high efficiency furnaces in attics.

The black streaks are most likely a fungal growth, much like the algae and/or lichens on the left side of the roof in the photo. At various seminars, the experts--alleged, anyway--claim that the growth is caused by vegetation blocking the sun and/or the house's position vis a vis the sun.

Promise . . . and thanks.

Splendidly done, Jim. Can I have your permission to give a copy of this to intransigent sellers, electricians, and/or seller's realtors? John

Another thought. We've all seen furnaces in unconditioned areas that are more trapezoidal than rectangular 'cause the things were hefted through tiny scuttleholes. That plastic isn't very flexible. I'll bet some of the draft-inducer housings wind up having small cracks in them before the furnace is even fired.

Actually, Michael, these kinds of cracks are typically caused by excessively high internal temperatures, regardless of where the furnace is located.

I, too, try to let my client know that the filters are excluded, Terence and Fritz. But . . . the things are five- or six-hundred dollar propositions and they represent yet one more reason for a client to get raw if he or she moves in and is told the filter hasn't worked for years by some yahoo. I'll try your method next time I run into an electronic filter, Fritz. Very clever, yet sublimely simple. Makes me wish I'd have thought of it already.

Is there any way to definitively determine whether an electronic air-filter is operating properly? I typically make certain the operational light is illuminated and listen for the snaps, crackles and pops. I recently checked out a filter that seemed dead, so I referred it out for assessment by an HVAC dude. But . . . the homeowner says there aren't any problems with the filter and refuses to have it checked.

Not to worry. He was properly busted. 'Course nothing was done about it due to the expense. Seller said, "No," and the buyer decided to roll the dice.

I've seen loads of flubs from the roof top that never could've been spotted from the ground. And . . . I think clients feel better paying my semi-outrageous fees when they know I've risked tumbling off a roof--along with all else--to protect their interests. Download Attachment: temproof.jpg 48.04 KB

I see this all the time, and have even taken the battle to local code enforcement. They buy into the builder's pitch that the windows are "self flashing," due to the nailing fins. I don't know about other areas, but around here, I can't imagine any builder admitting a mistake was made and then removing and reinstalling the finish materials to flash the windows.

These photos are from this past Friday's gig. Check out the Poria Incrassata in the crawlspace---with a nod to Mike for educating me about the stuff--and the black mold oozing down the trusses in the attic. When I stuck my noggin through the scuttlehole, my eyes began to water and my throat constricted nearly to a pinhole in protest. Without question, this is one of the most disgusting environments I've ever been thrust into. Download Attachment: DSC02306b.jpg 123.57 KB Download Attachment: DSC02308b.jpg 151.85 KB Download Attachment: DSC02312b.jpg 149.09 KB Download Attachment: DSC02315b.jpg 156.34 KB

That was my advice to the buyer, Bill. It was also the best way to address the K and T wiring above the second-floor ceiling. But the cost is prohibitive since she wants to resell the house in a year or so.