Bain

Thanks for the input. I'm thin and in good shape, but still would have had to scuttle through on hands and knees. I realize my shoes and clothes aren't conductive, but still . . .

The lack of answers to your question shows that it is a good one. Where I am, the yellow line always has a transition to rigid pipe just outside the cabinet, but I don't know of any rule governing this.

I was in an old house with an addition yesterday, and the only attic access was through the addition's ceiling. To get into the original house, I'd have had to climb through a hole punched into its former exterior wall. Problem was, there was knob-and-tube wiring with exposed conductors at the bottom of the hole. The wires had been stepped on so many times that the insulation had been abraded away by the knob. I told my client that entering the original house was unsafe but that I would return once the problem was corrected. Ten years ago I would have scrambled on in without a thought, but now I find myself being much more careful. What would you have done? Am I a pansy? John Download Attachment: DSC00827.jpg 104.72 KB Download Attachment: DSC00828.jpg 87.18 KB

Brian, Oftentimes the water dispensers in fridges, clothes washers or dishwashers will fail due to high water-pressure conditions. I've had several clients tell me--after I'd warned them and they did nothing about it--that one of those appliances had begun leaking after they'd moved into their houses. John

Jim, Without a visual, it's difficult to grasp exactly what's happening, and there are a number of causitive factors that could create what you're describing. Due to contraction, concrete typically cracks about an 1/8" per 10', so the house may not even have a problem. But . . . if it turns out that repairs are, indeed, needed, they will likely be expensive. It would be wise to have your buyer contact an engineer to limit your exposure. John

What about the drip loop? It's likely balled up within the eave. Also, the SE cables appear to be located within three feet of a window, which isn't permitted.

. . . maintenance IS required. John Download Attachment: DSC00646.JPG 586.65 KB

Donald and Scott, You're both right, of course. Then again, nothing erodes our credibility more than being overruled by a "licensed professional." Choosing which battles to wage in our business can be a tough proposition. One of my pet peeves is not sleeving the water main when it passes through a foundation wall. The state plumbing-inspection office--the Higher Power in that instance--doesn't enforce the code, though. Therefore, knowing how to relay the situation to a client can prove difficult.

Thanks for the advice, Mike. Nobody around here--even leading HVAC contractors--adhere to the 3" pad rule, so I've long since stopped mentioning it in my reports. The installation of bricks in lieu of a solid pad, like I told the buyer and the builder, isn't prudent because the bricks could easily be displaced by an errant lawnmower or children. That could cause the condensor to rest out-of-level, or even stress the liquid and suction lines and create a leak. I realize it's a universal complaint, but it's so frustrating when egos hamper good ol' common sense. John

The 25' rule minus appropriate distances to accommodate for bends was addressed by CABO back in '92. Not adhering to this can cause lots of problems in houses where the laundry room is near the front wall of a second floor, and the duct sustains multiple forty-five or ninety degree bends. Of course, it can't be redirected without removing drywall or slicing a hole in the front wall of the house. John

While checking out a new house yesterday, I found both heat-pump condensors propped up on bricks at all four corners because the sod was laid above the original, solid pads. The builder phoned today to let me know his sub adamantly claims there is no code addressing this issue. I remember the "solid pad" rule from HVAC school many years ago, but don't know where to look so I can quote chapter and verse. Anyone know where to search off hand? John