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TimK

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About TimK

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  1. I've found what feels like a pretty good approach. I quote an amount that includes a 4% CC processing fee, rounded to the nearest $5.00, and offer a discount if they pay by check or cash. The people who pay by cash (rare) or check appreciate it.
  2. I have been using the collapsible (to 36") Extend&Climb Pro15.5' for a couple years with good results and confidence. Once in a while I need to clean the stanchions and every time I use it I take the time to look for the green indicators to be assured it's locked on each step level. It's narrow enough at the top end to get into those attic hatches that are minimum or under sized, unlike the Little Giant, which I had used previously. http://xtendandclimb.com/products/telescoping-ladders/pro-series/785p.html
  3. I'm in agreement with Jardine. My Werner does this to about that same extent.
  4. TimK

    Roof Part Name?

    Roofers near here call it an "eyebrow". Officially, I don't know.
  5. There is a product in ridge venting that is designed for snow areas; GAF's is linked here. I would assume other manufacturers make something similar. https://www.gaf.com/en-us/roofing-products/residential-roofing-products/ventilation-and-attic-vents/exhaust/plastic-ridge-vents/cobra-snow-country
  6. I never measure, but on my report's title page I list the approximate size and quote the source, whether it's the listing MLS, county records, or Zillow - Redfin, etc. Any, or all of those, can be in error. I thereby sidestep any liability for its exactitude.
  7. Nice image. On another note, are those convective baseboard heaters? Possibly hydronic? I used to balance vales in commercial settings on convective baseboard heaters, among other things in the world of Test, Adjust and Balance.
  8. I see your Oregon CCB number, but not your OCHI number. I assume it's an oversight since you probably know that it's required in any published format?
  9. Good looking site. Best luck!
  10. Best practices of several energy programs recommend removing vapor barrier(s) from between insulation layers so that moisture doesn't get trapped adjacent to building materials. Therefore it depends on where the "paper" is located. If it is in an attic and the paper is on top, it is incorrectly installed already and should be removed. If it's against the ceiling, it's fine. From the way your question is stated, I suspect the former is the case?
  11. Best practices of several energy programs recommend removing vapor barrier(s) from between insulation layers so that moisture doesn't get trapped adjacent to building materials. Therefore it depends on where the "paper" is located. If it is in an attic and the paper is on top, it is incorrectly installed already and should be removed. If it's against the ceiling, it's fine. From the way your question is stated, I suspect the former is the case?
  12. Does anyone know when the requirement for safety glass in shower enclosures was introduced? It occurs to me that this is likely in an older home, which may have pre-dated the safety glass requirement. (I'm getting the shower scene of Hitchcock's "The Birds" in my head now)
  13. If there is an attic of height greater than 30" the 2014 Oregon code requires access to the attic. Hatch must be at least 22"x30". No mention of access to the roof being required. Since Oregon's 2014 codes are adapted from the 2009 IRC, I suspect that others may be the same.
  14. Hi Tim, In 1979, the construction of a single family home in Oregon would have been covered by the UBC. (We didn't start using CABO till 1986, when we adopted the 1983 edition.) The 1976 UBC doesn't say squat about decks. (At least as far as I can see.) If I were in your place, I'd apply the latest requirements. Jim Katen Jim, Thanks for your reply. I talked to a state code guy in Salem, who said pretty much the same thing, with the exception of the guards having been covered in the UBC at that time. I've advised the owner of what I thought the best thing (tearoff
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