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Trent Tarter

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Trent Tarter last won the day on April 8 2018

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  1. I thought this might be interesting. I have been seeing this type of lower continuous ridge vent installed about 5 feet up from eaves. The pics is this example were called out for poor installation. I found out they are installing this type of venting to meet fire code when the homes roof lines are located close together in developments.
  2. I find allot of 50's built homes with corner windows that don't meet current minimum 5.0 sq ft egress for main floor.
  3. Here's my standard comment. The basement bedroom windows have inadequate egress in the event of a fire due to being to high from the floor and having to small of an opening. Basement bedroom windows should have: A maximum sill height of 44 inches from the floor A minimum width opening of 20 inches A minimum height opening of 24 inches A minimum net clear opening of 5.7 square feet
  4. In my old house I had a gas tankless water heater "Takagi brand". The first one lasted about 15 years then I replaced it with a similar model with slightly less BTU. With a wife and 6 kids at home my gas bill during summer was around $12 -$15 for the tankless. I would never think of going with a tankless electric unit. If electric is your only option I would go with a heat pump water heater.
  5. I would suggest hiring a reputable home inspector and paying for a sellers inspection. This will allow you will know the true condition of your home and know what's driving buyers away. You can either chose to make repairs/improvements or price the home according to it's condition.
  6. I would not waste my money on trying to waterproof a stone foundation/basement or convert it to living space. If you really want to make "high quality" finished living space in the basement, I would spend the money on having a new basement/foundation installed that would be waterproof. I would also raise the home or dig basement down to have minimum 8+ foot ceiling height. You could go with standard poured concrete, ICF (insulated concrete forms) or a PWF (permanent wood foundation).
  7. I would call it the upper flat roof section with parapet walls. I have inspected some condo units with similar roof design to hide AC units.
  8. It appears that you have old 2-wire thermostat wire. If so, I suspect it's not going to be compatible with the new thermostat. A 24 volt transformer may be needed. Look at the install directions for using old 2 wire thermostat wire.
  9. As others have said I would RUN! Finding those kinds of structural defects on a two year old home is very alarming and is a good induction that there's more issues going on. The inspection report is very poorly written and unprofessional. I would hire a new inspector and move on to another property.
  10. Not sure if it has the same structural rating. It would not matter as the post frame walls would not require sheathing, the Zip sheathing would simply be an upgrade vs having metal siding over wood frame only.
  11. That's an option I might consider, however it takes more labor. I am also looking at "zip wall R sheathing". It's an OSB sheathing that has one inch foam insulation attached.
  12. I have nothing against stick built construction. However, my goal is to be able to build quality, durable homes that are more affordable than typical stick built construction. A typical post frame shell home goes up twice as fast as stick built, with much less excavation and foundation costs. Post frame builders are telling me I can have a 2000 sq ft dried in shell built in about two weeks. I am getting quotes for around $30-$38 a sq ft for a residential post frame shell. This includes reinforced/insulated concrete slab, roof, siding, windows, doors. 24 inches eaves, 8/12 roof pitch, 9 foot and vaulted ceilings, 2x8 walls. Here's a cool video of post frame home tour
  13. Can you describe what you mean in regards to unusual "bypass issues".
  14. Pole barn and Post Frame are the same thing. While some older styles used round poles most all pole barns & post frame buildings use posts (columns). "Post frame" construction is the professional term that's used. The basic concept is the same but there are many variations as far as foundation types, wall framing methods and truss type.
  15. The posts can be installed in a variety of ways that keep them above grade. One product is called "Perma_Column" You can also use "wet set" column brackets and pour footing onsite, which is what I am leaning towards. You also use brackets to mount the posts on any type of concrete foundation (stem wall, basement, monolithic slab). They are making premium laminated post columns that are treated all the way through, they claim to have a 50+ year warranty. I would only consider that for a real small home or cabin. I will use "bookshelf" girt design for walls. I will place horizontal 2"x8" girts between the posts at 24 inches apart. This eliminates the need to install standard girts on top of posts and then have to fame interior side for drywall. This will give me an R-30 wall using fiberglass batt, the walls end up having less thermal breaks than stick frame.
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