StevenT

Bill, Is that your office?

Great for looking down chimneys too. If it has vcr capabilities you can give a copy to the client.

old frieght elevator

I'm sure that is why the previous HI left his card.

A few weeks ago there was a thread regarding stone veneer. I thought this might be helpful. Download Attachment: weepscreed2.jpg 91.04 KB

I agree that if the sump is draining there is no need for a pump... if it is draining. I would like to see the water table lower that what is APPEARS to be in the photo. Of course, there is the possibility that in the pic, something happened to quickly fill the sump and the drainage did not yet catch up. Upon a closer look at the pic, there appears to be what looks like black corregated flex tubing. (from 6 to 9 oclock) The water level seems to be the bottom of the tube. There is a chance that the tube is peforated and allowing the water to drain out elsewhere.

I doubt if the lack of a pump is an oversight, unless the house was spec'd with a pump from the get go. If it's not, what they did do is great and I would install the pump without any complaints.

Jesse, Thank You,

I thought this might be useful. There are a number of different, but similar systems out ther. I liked this company's the best. Download Attachment: weepscreed1.jpg 60.93 KB

I remember some mention if a virus being spread via emails. I received a message from Subscriptions@workingre.com, the subject being, Inspectors: Avoiding complaints(part1). I won't open it, but is this that?

I've never seen attic steps like that. I think they are really cool! Probably alot less rickety then the one's I usually see. . Interesting...

I don't see too many people responding to your request to critique your website, I wonder why.But, since you asked for opinions, I will give you mine... for whatever it is worth. Some of my thoughts are as a fellow inspector, some are as a fellow human being. Although my career as an inspector is in it's infancy stages, I have many years practical experience in the construction industry. I have been involved, mostly hands on, with almost all of the trades. I have personally built many many things and take great pride in my work and my versatility... which is why I decided to become a H.I. I have always based my public relations on my strengths and not on other people's weaknesses, your website seems to do the opposite. It claims that you are better than a "newbie" but says little to make anyone think you are any better than those that are not new. I almost get the feeling that a new inspector or two has encroached on your territory. I absolutely agree that experience is priceless, but there are all types of experiences. I know of a few pretty good new inspectors and some lousy ones that have been around quite a while. Every great inspector had to start somewhere. Instead of admiting to use a report that you seem to be saying isn't the best. You should just say your reports are in depth and easy to read... if they are. As far as bragging that you are a deal killer, I can't see anyone that wants to buy a home turned on by this claim. Unless they are looking to have their deal killed. I would rather see you claim to be accurate, thorough,impartial and non-enamored to the RE Agents. I have seen very few HI websites that impressed me. Only one that I thought was great. Happens to be the website of a newbie, but you would never know it. Jerry, Although I found some of the items that I mentioned not what I prefer... to each his own. Bottom line is do the folks in your area like it and how are they responding to it. Peace

Brian, I will have to remember that. I am roaring in laughter. Or as they say in computer lingo LMAO

Hi Mike, Good to see you. I knew that there was a beam in there with provision for the masonry. Had a feeling it wasn't simply a notched and plated "I" beam "bricked in" because I didn't notice a variation in the joints. I shall add "hang plate" to my vocabulary and save "brick shelf" for the floor beams.

Good Morning Paul, Sounds like a plan.

Paul, I love chili. Care to trade your receipe for chili for my receipe for matzo ball soup?

Good morning Charlie, You may be right, I may be crazy... They used to think lead was a great medium for water supply. What about Vioxx? Is the Marlboro Man really sexy? Is it safe to assume copper is safe? How about aluminum or plastic for our food and drink? Or the crap they inject into our food supply? Does being married really make a man live longer? Maybe that particular man would have lived longer had he been single! I have never used Pex for potable, I'm considering it though. It would sure be fast and easy to install.

Copied and pasted from SlantFin site listed above; "Black oxygen barrier tubing is UV protected for up to 3 months. Non-barrier black tubing is UV protected for an unlimited amount of time".

Check it out. http://www.slantfin.com/terratherma/tubing1.html Last year, my 13 and 15 year old sons installed this in a house we've been toying with. Download Attachment: 81hylanpex.jpg 68.85 KB

I would think that removing a piece of carpet and installing tile in front of the stove would work.

The only pex tube that I am familiar with (Slant Fin)comes in Red, Black and Milky White. I usually only see red. All pex tubing is suitable for domestic water lines (hot or cold). Only the pex tubing with an oxygen barrier, identified by "DIN 4726" imprinted on the tube is suitable for heating systems. The black has to do with UV protection. I haven't seen much in my area used for domestic, but it sure makes sense to distinguish red/blue-hot/cold.

The beam is notched or it could possibly be a fabricated header beam and the flat plate you see is a brick shelf. Too bad they didn't paint it first with a rust preventative coating.

I guess I stand corrected... the Purlin is actually the horizontal member that supports the rafters. Since a kneewall can be anywhere and a purline is roof/rafter specific, I classified it as a purline.

That "knee wall" is actually called a "purlin". Usually find them perpendicular to the rafters.

Gable vents basically work by providing cross ventilation. Ridge vents along with eave vents utilize the process of convection. A closed gable vent and blocked eave vent/rafter bays, with only an opening at the ridge vent can cause your attic not to ventillate properly. Along with moisture/mold/ice damming problems it can also cause a negetive pressure effect in the summer which can cause conditioned air to leak into the attic. Try reading Structure, Interior and Roof Inspections of Existing Dwellings by Michael Casey and Kevin O'Mally Housebuilding by R.J. Cristoforo These will give you a basic understanding of how and why.