StevenT

I was going to comment on the "timer pump" in RobC's picture, but didn't, now I will. Before I continue, I totally concede that I could learn plenty from some of those that I am in disagreement with regarding the use, or optimum use of this device, and I hope no one is insulted with the fact that I do disagree, as that is not my intention. If I'm wrong, please, by all means, educate me! I imagine that if the pump is feeding some type of heating loop, a timer might work, but wouldn't you rather have a thermostat controlling it? This way it goes on and off when the set high and low temps are met??? I'm sorry, but continuously running, regardless of temperature just doesn't make sense to me.??? On the same thought, if it is circulating a domestic hot water loop, once again, wouldn't it be more desireable to operate when the water drops below a certain temperature, rather than run continuously, whether it is needed or not, just because of the time of day? And not deliver hot water immediatly at other times, just because of the time of day? Actually, the only place that a timed pump makes sense to me in on a fixture such as a fountain in someone's front yard or at a restaurant, or something of that nature when the only thing that matters was the time of day. Even a thermostat with variable time settings is still a thermostat! Unless it is not a pump(although it looks like a pump to me), and it is some type of valve and then I could see it being used for a lawn sprinkler system.

I agree with Jim, the pipes should be through the fill, not the concrete. What do the plans show? Is the concrete poured yet? How are you going to handle this?

Besides high end homes, I've put the in laundromats, when the owner was concerned about the first person in the morning, or after a quiet spell during the day, getting cold water when they were expecting hot. I guess that he was being a bit fussy, but that's how he is. Now, I install this type of set up in almost any installation that is within my control.

I've seen it before, caught me by suprise. But when I looked at the SE ends, main breaker size, it all added up.

Embedding pipes directly in concrete does not allow for slab movement or expansion/contraction. Tell your builder to put sand rather than gravel in the trench (under and over the pipe), as it is even more forgiving. At penetrations, especially through walls, use collars (larger pipes).

Mike, Are you saying it's something to attach a safety harness to? I fell off a roof this past year, I have a harness, just didn't have a place to attach. If that's what it is, it's not a bad idea. With the cover on, do they present a problem in the future?

Valve...or Pump? I see the cold feed and hot output on top of the tank, is the horizontal line in the backgroung a return of the hot water line back to the heater? Is the hose bib teed into where the drain on the heater would normally be? Does that line get hot when the heater is turned on. What is controlling the pump? I've done a few jobs, where it mattered that there be little or no delay of delivery of hot water at the fixture. The hot water line was a continuous loop back to the heater with a pump, and sensor on the return of the loop. When the sensor sensed a drop in the temp in the line, it would turn on the pump and circulate hot water throughout the line, Could this be that? Whatever it is, I don't find the 2x4's supporting the pump thrilling!

I thought it would work! So there you go Bain, there are a few ways to check for grounded lighting fixtures(except fluorescent), but they could be a hassle. So unless it's really important for you to know, it may not be practical as SOP. Jim, would you test fluorescent fixtures witout taking them apart (if you really wanted to)?

What a truly beautiful home! It deserves a good future. On a different note, how about some more "whatizzit" pictures? They were alot of fun and are interesting!

I never thought about checking for grounded lighting fixtures, but, since the question arose and no one as of yet posted a solution,,, well, I just had to give it a try. Now, if I'm wrong, please correct me, as I'm sure you will. And if you think I'm crazy, o.k., I admit you wouldn't be the first to think that. Here goes... Since a SURETEST will determine grounding (you could also use a 3 light tester), we have to think about a way to hook up the tester. Well, if you remove a light bulb, and insert one of those screw in outlet adapters, we would have a place to hook up the SURETEST... except you need a three prong outlet and the outlet adapter is only a two prong. So this is where the three prong adapter comes into play. Now the ground wire coming out of the adapter gets extended and add an alligator clip which gets attached to the lamp or fixture body. VIOLA (thats french for hoo-ha)... you can test for ground!!! WOULD IT WORK? I don't see why not. It might not be a bad thing to try on fixtures that fall short of the 8' requirement. I bet you would find pleanty of improperly installed fixtures! I told you Matzoh Ball soup had an effect on me.

Does the "canvas" cover the entire wire, or is it just at the ends for color coding? Sort of like friction tape?

I grew up on matzoh ball soup... worked wonders, you should see me now!

At the beginning of this thread, it mentions a two year study by the CPSC coming to an end. I have had some experiences with Federal panels, some going back some 15 years (with boxes that were older than that). I have been present on two occaisions when breakers that should have popped didn't. And one time when an electrician was doing some work for me on a building I had just purchased, he noticed a "Federal", and advised me to replace it immediatly, which I did. If you combine that with all of the investigations, lawsuits and controversy that is CONSTANTLY going on regarding those panels, how can anybody not red flag them. Yet, I know of some inspectors that have the attitude, "if they haven't been a problem yet, they must be good". Besides not tripping there are other problems with the Panels and Stablock breakers, such as failing to turn off when the handle is moved to the off position, poor mounting method, insufficient wiring space, etc. I would think that at a minimum, a H.I. should at least warn their clients that these panels have been associated with many defects and failures. I know that the company changed hands a couple of times, I think from Federal to Federal Canadian to Federal Pacific (something like that), but the controversy continues... so shall my distrust.

Very interesting!!

Mike, I'm curious what they go for. The only problem is parking.

I know that fiberglass mat shingle is prone to cracking. But if that were the case, wouldn't the cracking be more "scattered" or over a larger area? The cracking in the picture seems to be continuous and seems to have a point of origin and termination. Is this what fiberglass mat cracking looks like? Is there a possibility that the sheathing is not properly attached or some other movement, maybe in conjunction with the fiberglass?

Sometimes when I download a picture, it looks like a "paint by number" image instead of a photogragh. -Steven Turetsky, S.I., N.Y.

If that is where the roof drains, shouldn't the drip cap or end cap or whatever you install there be installed under the roofing so the water drains over it? Since the edge appears to be raised, I agree that it is a gravel stop and would be the perfect edge for somewhere else. I usually see gravel stops on hot tar w/ stone roofs. I've also seen similar profile material on the rake edges of roofs or flat roofs w/o parapits. In most cases all that is usually seen is the raised lip, not the entire profile. (Occaisionally, I've had roofers tell me they install a similar profile over roof tiles edges @ rake ends to help protect against wind damage) Do you think that the direction that is is installed and the fact that there is a raised edge, would collect water all along the edge. And if there is a water problem, isn't that probibly a very good place to suspect. - Steven Turetsky, S.I.,N.Y.

Mike, I agree with everything you're saying about not being afraid to call something that is wrong, wrong. And it should be corrected, not re-evaluated". In this particular scenario, I saw what I knew was wrong, what I thought might be wrong, and what I didn't care for, but may not be wrong. It is for that reason I called for full evaluation by a licensed plumber. Had it just been something I was sure of, I would have no problem, and do not have a problem calling for "correction". But your point is well taken. I assure you, if I see something that in my heart of hearts, I feel should be corrected, and I hesitate to call it that way, your advice will echo in my memory. - Steven Turetsky, S.I., N.Y. O.T - O.F.... HUAAH

I am having a hard time from the picture, figuring out exactly what I see and what I think I see. Not seeing the tank in the foreground being vented, I'm assuming that it being used as a storage tank only. I question the efficiency of this systems's hot water recovery. Is that PVC being used as flue pipe on the active heater? I would think that the circulating pump should be located between the two tanks, I can't tell that it is. Was consideration given regarding the length of the TPR sensor going through the tee? I agree that the TPR drain is not acceptable. I not sure if it's necessary, but I wouldn't mind seeing an expansion tank. If I was to put this together, I think I would have: Cold water feed with expansion tank and back flow preventer into cold water inlet of tank "A" (active) Hot water outlet of "A" into Cold water inlet of "B" (storage) Hot water feed of "B" to house Tee into draincock of "B" to circulator pump with temp sensor to tee into cold water feed of "A" I would have tied the two TPR valves into 1-1/2", at no point would the two 3/4" drains met into less than 1-1/2". Having said all of that, simply on the merit of the undersized TPR drain tube... and the questionable length of the TPR sensor I would definately call for a "qualified licensed plumber" to evaluate the system. -Steven Turetsky S.I.,N.Y.

I might guess that the larger "timepiece" with the "dials" controls "wakeup" bells in remote locations. I see three different types of "dials" The bell below might be a way to receive a message from the "remote" locations, but how would one know which remote location was responding(number of rings?)? Unless the remote location was a single location... as a master bedroom, or a front door. The quad looking plate below? Without a closer look, I could guess no better than a quad outlet cover... just as it appears.

Are all items in the picture part of one system? What is the history of the building? B&B, Hotel? Got a bigger picture? Are what appear to be wires @ sides of the "timepiece" related to the timepiece/system?

I agree with tying in the vent above the flood line of the shower base, I also wonder if anything else is draining into that stack? If so, wouldn't you want to tie in the vent above the flood line of whatever else is there (sink, etc.)

I wouldn't want that in my house. But it is such an easy fix. Like Chad says, simply repipe the basement sink vent to tie in above the shower drain. But having seen this, what else is there?

I saw the TORO gauge set in PE catalogue and like the idea of the dual gauges. In the picture, the gauges don't appear to be too durable. To tell you the truth, I think I could make up something a little better and if you look at the price of the individual gauges, you'll see your paying alot for a gate valve and a hose adapter (I would prefer a ball valve anyway). I am having a hard time finding a flow valve. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place. Any hints? Does anybody have one of the TORO combo sets that can comment on the quality/durability?