hausdok

Hi, It sounds like you're looking at a sill beneath a cantilevered bumpout. So the bottom sides of the bumpout don't extend to below the level of that sill - or do they? Around here, they typically secure cleats to the inside of the bumpout skirt and to the sill and secure a dust cover over the whole thing, However, if the bumpout doesn't have a skirt that extends below that, and there's a cover on the bottom of the bumpout, leaving the sill exposed, you have to ask yourself whether it's harming the house. That house is 45 years old. Any sign of damage there? If not, I'd say that the overhang has done a pretty good job of protecting it from the elements - especially considering the fact that you're in snow country and it probably has snow against it all winter. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Yeah, I keep hoping a Mercedes town car will graze me while I'm crossing the street or smack my car in the ass, and give me a bruise or two, so I too can become a new American millionaire. [:-crazy]

Eeeaaassy![V]

Hi Gary, I've long felt that what we do is somewhere between knocking nails and engineering with a twist of building science thrown in. I'd like to see the home inspection gods, building science gods and the engineering gods put their heads together, come up with a whole new kind of designation for home inspectors, outline an education path to it and bring some learning uniformity to the process. I'd like to see it. Doesn't mean I ever will, but there's always hope. OT - OF!!! M. P.S. I'm still kinda baffled with the $50,000 worth of damage caused by cutting the hole in the drywall, though.

OK, Not defending the engineer, because I think he was a "maroon", as bugs would say, for cutting into the drywall, but you're going to have to explain that one to me. How would cutting a hole in the drywall cause a washing machine to drain into the home? Are you saying that he didn't reinstall the discharge pipe into the standpipe correctly? If that was the proximate cause, how would they have known that it was the engineer's fault and not the homeowner's? I had a homeowner call me once to say I'd missed the fact that there wasn't a standpipe in his brand new home. Drove all the way out there only to discover that he didn't know he couldn't figure out that he had to pop the knockout plug out of the standpipe so he could insert the hose. $50,000 worth of damage? I've seen washing machines overflow before and never heard of it costing that much to clean up the damage. What'd they have, Brazilian rosewood floors in the laundry? OT - OF!!! M.

Hi, Yep, a Magnatrip is a Zinsco. See the photo below. It's a Magnatrip a client had yanked. I sent it to Douglas Hansen and he rewired it to use as a training aid. I carry around the guts of a Magnatrip in my truck, just to show folks the arcing on the bus bars behind those breakers. They're old, over 40 years. Most electricians and educators that I've asked, agree that electrical components have a service life of about 40 years. Besides its age, there's no bending room in the danged things and once you've got it fully wired you have to fight with the cover to get it on because the box will be so full. Besides, there's hardly enough room for an adequate number of breakers for a small apartment, let alone a house. MOFWIW ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Eeewww! Dear International Olympic Committee chairperson,.....

Bleaaaaacchhhhh![:-yuck] Jeez, weird name. Sounds like what I have to get scoped every once in a while. Ouch! I dunno which airport. There's more than one? Whichever one the airlines stop at and make you change planes to go to Joisey, I guess. Never thought to ask, 'cuz I wasn't planning to leave and go exploring. OT - OF!!! M.

Hi, I've only been in Chicago's airport on a layover or two - I know little about the city. However, isn't there a river that runs through the center of chicago? Don't they have storm drains that empty into that river that are separate from the sanitary sewer? Aren't those where rooftop downspouts and such drain into, instead of into the same water that needs to be treated? Maybe not, I'm just asking. Parts of Seattle still have the basement floor drains, downspout receivers, exterior stairwell drains and driveway drains connected to the sanitary sewer, along with the house's waste plumbing. When we have those outrageous storms, all that extra water and debris plugs them up and then folks end up with toilets in basement bathrooms doing an immitation of Old Faithful. It's great fun to see them on the news stuffing a blanket into a toilet and wedging a 2 by 4 against it and the water spraying out in all directions. Whenever I find someone plumbing a sump pump into that setup, I write it up as just plain wrong and tell 'em I think it flunks the common sense test. Most get it, some don't. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, It's every bit as much of a home inspector writeup as a disconnected condensate drain would be. I'd just write it the way I saw it and recommend they have a competent plumber reconfigure the drain so that it drains to the exterior, either well clear of the foundation and downhill or into a dedicated storm sewer or drywell system. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Check your municipality's code. Most juridictions forbid it because it adds to the cost of water treatment. Bet if they knew about it, they'd levy a stiff fine on the homeowner. It should be piped to exterior drainage. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

"Recent" topics goes off the date of the original post and lists them in reverse chronological order, most recent to oldest. However, when you come onto the board, the software uses "Active" topics to look at when you visited last and then lists any posts what have had any activity since then. Keep in mind that if you have TIJ marked as your home page, that every time you log onto the net but continue past TIJ to another site, without stopping in to look at what's been discussed since you were here last, the software sees that as a visit and starts counting "active" topics all over again. So, you have to remember to look back to the last time you actually hung around and looked at something, if you want to get it all. The other thing you need to do is check your settings on the active topics page and see how you've got your preferences set up. If you want to be sure to see every topic posted since you visited last, you need to have it set up to display "All topics you have access to." You also need to have it set to reload automatically when you walk away for a while - say to eat dinner - or it won't track what's been discussed since you've been logged onto the site and been reading posts. Mines set up to reload every 5 minutes. Every once in a while I'll clean the crap out of my computer with a cleaner program, forget to reset those two settings and leave TIJ up while I'm doing something else, expecting it to display any activity. Then, when it's unusually quiet for a long time, I'll realize my mistake, go in and do a search for active topics for that period and find a bunch of stuff has been discussed. Also, make sure that after you read a topic you cancel it out so the software will only show you the most recent threads since you've been on the board. To do that, just click on where the most recent topics read is displayed, let it display all of the topics that you've just finished reading, and then click on the little magnifying glass at the upper left side. That will cancel out all of the stuff that you've already read and display anything posted since you last searched for most recent topics. That way, you don't miss what's been discussed while you were reading other topics. You just need to understand the mechanics of it. Once you have that, it's easy. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Now we're talking. Maybe that information is available someplace on the GAMA site. OT - OF!!! M.

Washington, D.C./March 23rd - Release #07-136 The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission, in cooperation with the firm named below, today announced a voluntary recall of the following consumer product. Consumers should stop using recalled products immediately unless otherwise instructed. Name of product: Digital Security Controls FSA and FSB Series Smoke Detectors Units: About 32,000 Distributor: Digital Security Controls, of Toronto, Canada Hazard: These smoke detectors could fail to reliably detect smoke during a fire. Incidents/Injuries: None reported. Description and Models: The recall involves Digital Security Controls FSA and FSB series photo-electric smoke detectors. They are wired directly into the building circuitry, and do not use a battery. The dome shaped units have a metal mesh covering around the smoke sensor. Sold by: Commercial and residential installers nationwide from October 2006 through December 2006 for between $60 and $70 per unit. Manufactured in: Canada Remedy: Customers should immediately contact their installer to receive a free inspection to determine if their units are included in the recall. If so, they will receive free replacement smoke detectors with installation. Customers also can contact Digital Security Controls for additional information on how to receive free replacement smoke detectors. Only professional installers should remove and replace these units. Consumer Contact: For additional information, contact Digital Security Controls toll-free at (877) 666-1250 between 9 a.m. and 5 p.m. ET Monday through Friday, or visit the firm's Web site at www.dsc.com. To see this recall on CPSC's web site, including a picture of the recalled product, please click here. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is charged with protecting the public from unreasonable risks of serious injury or death from more than 15,000 types of consumer products under the agency's jurisdiction. Deaths, injuries and property damage from consumer product incidents cost the nation more than $700 billion annually. The CPSC is committed to protecting consumers and families from products that pose a fire, electrical, chemical, or mechanical hazard or can injure children. The CPSC's work to ensure the safety of consumer products - such as toys, cribs, power tools, cigarette lighters, and household chemicals - contributed significantly to the 30 percent decline in the rate of deaths and injuries associated with consumer products over the past 30 years.

So, should that area in parenthesis read 3/4" for XXXXXBtu, 1" for XXXXXBtu, etc? The parenthesis are there so that others can help us get that information and fill it in where it applies, so that the list that the checklist we end up with is as complete as possible. I don't have an unlimited amount of time on my hands to look all of this stuff up. Besides TIJ, I've got my inspection business to run, so, if we're going to do this thing, it's going to require more cooperation from the brethren. OT - OF!!! M.

Hi, Actually, it's visible indefinitely to anyone who hasn't read it yet, so there's no need to try and keep it at the front. You can post it on Monday and, even if nobody responds to it and it's no longer displayed in recent topics, when someone logs who hadn't visited since it was posted, say on Friday or the following week, it will show in their recent topics display. OT - OF!!! M.

It's a good thought! Use your "reply with quote feature and add that to the list, so we can continue to built it and will be able to see it in the most recent post with changes, instead of scrolling up and down to it. OT - OF!!! M.

UPDATE: The Washington Home Inspectors Legislative Advisory Group (WHILAG) intends to be at this hearing and will attempt to be heard on this bill. WHILAG is proposing amendments to the engrosses substitute version of SB 5788. To see WHILAG's proposed amendment, click here. To see a separate memo explaning their basis for those recommendations, click here. Remember, any inspectors who wish to comment about this bill, but don't want to do it publicly here on the forums, you can send your comments to letters@inspectorsjournal.com specify who you want them forwarded to and TIJ will be happy to forward them for you.

UPDATE: The Washington Home Inspectors Legislative Advisory Group (WHILAG) intends to be at house hearing and will attempt to be heard on this bill. WHILAG is proposing amendments to the engrosses substitute version of SB 5788. To see WHILAG's proposed amendment, click here. To see a separate memo explaning their basis for those recommendations, click here. Remember, any inspectors who wish to comment about this bill, but don't want to do it publicly here on the forums, you can send your comments to letters@inspectorsjournal.com specify who you want them forwarded to and TIJ will be happy to forward them for you.

Hi All, I suggest we here at TIJ try to collaborate to create our own TIJ generic tankless water heater inspection checklist. TIJ has a working relationship with Rheem/Ruud Corporation. I've posted a proposed checklist below that is based on an installation checklist taken from one of their tankless manuals. Let's modify/enhance it to create one that will work for our profession. To flesh this thing out we need to fill in all of the blanks from what resources we have and then discuss what's needed for those areas where we don't have specs/codes and try and create a consensus-based working product. Here's how it works. I'll post the basic list below. Then, those who want to participate, can click on the "reply with quote" icon and add their information after the quotes where necessary. Do not make this stuff up. Find it in codes, manuals, etc. and make it brief. Add it to the basic list and then explain your additions below the quoted areas, so that others will know where you got it from and why it's necessary. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Here it is: --------------------- TIJ Tankless Water Heater Inspection Checklist *id="size4"> Outdoor and Indoor Water Heater Location [ ] Proper clearance from combustible surfaces observed. (_______________________________) [ ] Sufficient fresh air supply for proper operation of water heater. (_______________________) [ ] Air supply free of corrosive elements and flammable vapors. (________________________) [ ] Provisions made to protect area from water damage. (_________________________) [ ] Sufficient room to service heater. (__________________________) [ ] Combustible materials, such as clothing, cleaning materials, rags, etc. clear of the heater and vent piping. (__________________________) [ ] Water heater is properly attached to the wall. (____________________________) Water Supply [ ] Water supply has sufficient pressure. (__________________________) [ ] Air purged from water heater and piping. (________________________) [ ] Water connections tight and free of leaks (_________________________) [ ] Water filter is clean and in place. (___________________________) [ ] Materials used are as instructed in this manual. (______________________) [ ] Water pipes are insulated and protected from freezing. (_______________________) Gas Supply [ ] Gas type matches rating plate. (________________________) [ ] Gas supply pressure is sufficient for the water heater. (_______________________) [ ] Gas line equipped with shut-off valve, union and sediment trap. (_________________________) [ ] Approved pipe joint compound used. (____________________________) [ ] Soap and water solution used to check all connections and fittings for possible gas leak. (________________________) [ ] Gas Company inspected installation (if required). (_______________________) Relief Valve [ ] Pressure Relief Valve properly installed and discharge line run to open drain (___________________) [ ] Discharge line protected from freezing. (________________________) Venting (IndoorWater Heaters Only) [ ] Materials used are as instructed in the manual. (_______________________) [ ] Vent connector(s) pitched downward to termination (¼" per foot of length minimum) See page 13. (____________________________) [ ] Vent connector(s) securely fastened together with high temperature silicone (500°F) (260°C) and airtight. (_____________________________) [ ] All vent runs are properly supported. (_____________________________) [ ] Vent terminal is properly installed. (___________________________) [ ] Sufficient combustion air is available. (__________________________) [ ] Maximum and minimum vent lengths are observed. (__________________________) Electrical Wiring [ ] Voltage matches rating plate. (____________________________) [ ] Water heater is properly grounded. (________________________) [ ] Supply cord and/or wiring meets all local codes. (__________________________) *Adapted from the Rheem tank less water heater installation checklist.

UPDATE: For those interested there will be a public hearing on SB 5788 on Tuesday, March 27th, in the House Committee on Commerce & Labor at 1:30 PM. (Subject to change) in the house hearing Rm C in the John L. O'Brien Building, Olympia, WA. Inspectors who oppose or support licensing, or even those who think the present proposals are acceptable, but want to see some changes made, should consider attending. However, don't expect too much. It seems our state's legislators are more interested in rubber stamping what their colleagues have hurriedly and sloppily cobbled together, instead of listening to what a few mere home inspectors want to tell them about the realities of our craft.

UPDATE: For those interested there will be a public hearing on SB 5788 on Tuesday, March 27th, in the House Committee on Commerce & Labor at 1:30 PM. (Subject to change) in the house hearing Rm C in the John L. O'Brien Building, Olympia, WA

Hi Craig, CDC and EPA have stated repeatedly that sampling for mold in the course of a home transaction is pointless. Why? Because the air you and I are breathing right now has "toxic" mold spore in it, so taking air samples will only tell you what you already know - that there is mold spore in the air. The mold spore count in the air up here in Western Washington is probably far higher than many other parts of the country, so, if mold were as "toxic" as claimed by many of these folks who are taking samples and confirming a given fact, that there's mold spore in the air, most of the folks out here would be ill - they aren't. How do you explain that? Do we, by virtue of our geographic location somehow magically achieve immunity to mold spore? No. We were already immune and those of us up here who were already allergic to it are affected by it. People in other parts of the country, with less mold spore in the air, are getting ill. Why? Because, again, they have a pre-existing allergy to it, not because it's suddenly become "toxic" by virtue of news stories that have sensationalized it. Sure, some folks who aren't normally sickened by mold spore occasionally are sickened by mold spore when exposed to too much of it. What's so strange about that? Heck, we need water to survive. Drink too much of it too quickly and your body dies from water toxicity. Too much of anything isn't good for the body - that's a given. It's possible for someone to sell a home that has dried up mold spore in the walls and not to ever know that it's there, because someone who's living in the home and not allergic to mold might never suffer any ill affects from it. A buyer who isn't allergic might live in the home for years and never know that dried up spore was there. Then, that same person can sell the home to someone else who's allergic to mold, and when the guy who's allergic to mold starts suffering ill effects from the stuff hidden in the walls, the seller, the home inspector, and anyone else who's got a wallet, suddenly becomes responsible for the fact that the buyer had a pre-existing allergy to mold spore. Where's the sense in that? I don't think mold sampling should be part of home inspections...period. It makes more sense for people who know they're allergic to something to exercise due diligence by hiring medical specialists to detect that "something," outside of a home inspection, rather than expect the home inspector, who's a nuts and bolts technician looking for 'visual' indicators that things do not fit within certain parameters, to magically detect it for them. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Members of the board should know that this guy might be making fools of you - not Caoimhin. I've received an email from someone claiming to be the real Michael Fumento, who says that the fellow who posted the above was not him. I invited him to register here under another user name, so that I could check his IP address against that of the fellow who made the post above, but he declined. I was tempted to delete the post, but until I can confirm that this fellow is not who he claims to be, I'll leave it up. It did, after all, stimulate some more discussion, although at this point I think the discussion has gone far afield of what home inspectors need to know. We're not scientists. We're nuts and bolts kinds of guys. Give us parameters and a means to check them, we do it. The why or how is interesting, but the minutia of the why isn't really relevant to what we do. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Maybe I should point out that you left your own name off that post. If you expect others to identify themselves to you, please extend members of the board the same courtesy. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike O'Handley Editor - TIJ