
DonTx
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Everything posted by DonTx
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Have any of you ever dealt with these siding claims firms such as One Source? Can you recommend one? What percentage of the claim do they take? My mothers house in Tulsa has some crappy rotting 4x8 hardboard siding and I'd like to get someone out there to see if it will qualify for one of these class action lawsuits. I only see the masonite/LP/abito lap type siding down here. I haven't seen this particular type of siding that is on her house anywhere else. I'd say it is about 1/2 to 5/8ths inch thick with a stucco pattern on the outside. Any suggestions are appreciated. Donald
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And still overpriced even at $99! [:-yuck]
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Thanks everyone, I think I found what I was needing. I've been looking right past it for a while. R309.2 Separation required. The garage shall be separated from the residence and its attic area by not less than 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board applied to the garage side. Where the separation is a floor-ceiling assembly, the structure supporting the separation shall also be protected by not less than 1/2-inch (12.7 mm) gypsum board or equivalent. This was a cheap ass built home. The 2x6 #3 grade SYP rafters spanned 14 feet in a couple places. This builder left out as much as he could. Sadly, in this part of the county, his business is booming. He finances his own homes with a ridiculous interest rate. He has his own "in house" appraiser and his company guarantees the homes appraises for 10k less than the selling price. My clients were a young couple who could not make the insepction, so they asked their mom and dad to show up. I simply stated to them that for the asking price (87,000 for 1300sf) their kids could find a helluva lot better built used home in the area. I simply do not understand the need to have a "new" home no matter the quality. People in this area are paying 20 grand on up for a new home because they get a few more square feet. Example, last week I inspected a 3200 sf home built in 1973. The home was in an older neighborhood and for its age, it really wasn't in bad shape. It had some really nice custom cabinets and wood flooring plus all the cool trim work. Asking price of 169k. The next day, I did a brand new "starter" home of 4200 sf. A piece of junk from its single 5 ton A/C to its damaged trusses and the leaking plumbing on the linoleum floors. These homes will be rental units in 15 years or less. Okay, I'm off my soap box now. Donald
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This was a first for me. The bottom of the barrel builder only puts sheetrock on the wall between the garage and home. Everything else is left open, including the ceiling that leads into the attic of the home. The only thing I've been able to find in the IRC is the requirement between the garage and home. I couldn't really find anything else that said they couldn't have this type of set up. Is there someplace in the IRC that I'm overlooking? How about another "industry standard"? I'm calling it out as a fire hazard anyway but I'd like some reference to back me up. BTW, there are no AHJ's in our counties, so this builder is doing just about anything he wishes. Donald Download Attachment: IMG_0422.JPG 47.29 KB
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Perhaps the "Digital Goddess" doesn't make it through Mississippi much these days. [:-cry] Here's a link to her site: http://www.komando.com You can actually hear the geeks drool when they call in. [:-drool] Donald
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I have a confession, actually two. I didn't have DSL until about three weeks ago. I'm not sure how I survived in this world without it. I understand from Sprint that I have the slowest type of DSL. It's so much more freakin' faster than dial up it's headspinning! [:-hspin] My other confession is that sometimes on the weekend I get bored listening to all the Fix-it-upper, DIY radio shows and turn on Kim Komando's Techie Show. It's amazes me someone that good lookin can be so darn smart. She recommends Zone Alarm for a firewall. Right after getting DSL, I bought, downloaded and installed it. Pretty neat. You can find Zone Alarm at http://www.zonealarm.com I also use Nortons anti virus software and have auto update. Donald
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Thanks everyone, I wrote it up as insufficient cooling and rust on the lower section of the evaporator coil. I also had some leaks around the edges of the evap coil housing and at some duct connections. I then stated it needed further evaluation by a qualified and licensed HVAC contractor and all necessary repairs made. Terence The unit had been running between 30 minutes to an hour. I thought it was odd that only have the A coil had condensation on it while the top half did not. Sure wish some one could come out with a troubleshooting chart with general rules of thumbs for evaluating A/C's. Donald
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I was looking at this 5 ton A/C today and it wasn't getting as cool as I thought it should. Of course the Seller said they'd just had it serviced, no invoices though, imagine that! Anyhow, I had a little extra time so I took the front of the Evap. coil housing off so I could see it. Lots of rust at the lower section and some up the sides of the "A". I noted condensation about half way up the "A" on the ends of the loops. Seems to me that I heard once that meant the unit was low on coolant. Also, there was what looked like an expansion valve to the front of the cabinet. Between the cabinet and valve, the copper was cold and condensating like crazy. On the other side, the copper line was luke warm or even at the same temp as the attic. What does this mean? The temperature at the Return Air was around 70 degrees and the temp at the supply registers was between 60 - 63 degrees. The outside temp was about 75 to 80 with some pretty good humidity thrown in for good measure. Donald
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I didn't understand the pricing of his company. Unless he's just wanting to unload the company quick, it doesn't jive with anything I've ever heard about pricing a company. I've read and been told several times that a company is generally priced to sell at 2 to 4 times its annual gross sales. Now I don't know if this applies to HI business's, but as I understand it this is how other service related companies are priced. Is this correct? Surely there are some of you who have sold a HI company before. Donald
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Interesting Topic, I get calls quite regularly with home owners complaining that some rooms get hot and do not cool off. I sometimes find that the temperatured difference out of balance but mostly there is a 3 to 5 degree range between all supply registers. I've always thought that volume to these registers were the probelm, but how do you go about determining this? Is there a standard for the amount of air coming out of the registers? Donald
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Thanks Bill, That's the stuff alright! Two additional questions: The pictures showed copper clips to hold the ridge roll on. Is there any type of sealing that was typically done? The one I looked at Saturday leaked at every hip and I could see daylight (probably indirect but not sure) at the main ridge beam and 2 of the hips. How did they get the copper wire nails secured. I know they had holes drilled in the shingles, but how would hey get them secured to the decking? It doesn't look like they'd be stiff enough to be driven. Donald
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I can't wait![:-bouncy] I've been studying and taking several pool classes for a year now. I've followed the pool guy we refer around on every he's done at our inspections. I'm pretty confident about pools now, but I always want to learn more.
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See what happens when you lose interest in a post and do not revisit? [:-sleep] I'm back now also. Mike, My response about the flex line was in regards to Rons T&P line. I don't worry about the code on this as there is usually a tag hanging off the pop off handle stating that the T&P drain line is required to the the same size as the outlet of the valve. You can look and see that the 3/4 inch copper flex is not the same size as the 3/4 inch outlet of the T&P valve. [:-magnify] As for the brass being used in lieu of the dielectric unions on the supply side, I gave Ron the IRC side of the equation. It's up to Ron or another reader to decide whether or not the IRC is used in their jurisdiction. [?] Here in the land of no code enforcement, the IRC is King. Unless we're inside an incorporated city, there is no code enforcement although Texas has adopted the IRC as the statewide building code. I rarely have to deal with an AHJ. I assuming any reader who reads a post on these boards know their local conditions. As for the line about plumbers "singing my praises", that was a sarcastic remark. They actually call me very bad names. [:-censored] Sometimes they even hurt my feelings with the names they use. [:-weepn] Donald "not feeling the love" Lawson [:-jester]
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Sorry Mike, That particular picture was not of a home I inspected, it was a neighbors house sitting off the road. I had to use zoom to get it. I have always been curious about that type of roof and took the picture some time ago to find out what type it was. I just forgot to ask until yesterday when I came across one I was inspecting. I'm positive these shingles yesterday were not asphalt. Very stiff and brittle, like asbestos siding shakes, only thinner.
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Thanks everyone, I think Jim and Kurt have it. Although the one I looked at was old, I didn't notice any white fibers. It was like Jim stated, the edges held moss, dirt and other debris pretty well. These are thin, perhaps 1/4 inch thick or less. I didn't notice any that were cracked or broken, just some daylight coming through at the hip rafters and main ridge. The reason I thought they may be French tile is I found an illustration that matches the pattern to the one I seen in the Illustrated Home. However, they just didn't "feel" like clay or concrete. I didn't think about asbestos, but thinking back they do resemble the feel and type of asbestos siding (just thinner). Donald
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We don't have many roofs like this one in my area. Is this French tile? Are there any special sealing techniques that need to be done? How are these normally fastened? Sorry, but it was the only pic I have on file of this type of roof. Did a home yesterday (didn't have my camera) with this type of roof. Thin tile looking material with cap tile. From the attic, I could see the decking rotted or water stained at every hip plus daylight coming through in several areas including the ridge. These tile appeared to be "nailed" on with thin copper wire nails. All the "nails" were bent over slightly. The "nails" had no heads, which is why they were bent over I'm assuming. Any information on this type of roofing would be appreciated. Donald Download Attachment: IMG_0123.JPG 42.6 KB
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I'm still amazed at how many commodes bases have moisture around them. Many times there will be no indications of problems. I just start checking around the base and there it is. I've also been finding quite a few window leaks in new homes lately. Lower corners. Yes, I report my findings. It's hard to argue with a moisture meter. Donald
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Ron, Try this on for size: 2000 IRC P2904.14.1 Copper or copper-alloy tubing to galvanized steel pipe. Joints between copper or copper-alloy tubing and galvanized steel pipe shall be made with a brass converter fitting or dielectric fitting. The copper tubing shall be joined to the fitting in an approved manner, and the fitting shall be screwed to the threaded pipe. You have another problem with the WH. The copper flex line is smaller than the outlet for the T&P valve. Plumbers sing my praises when I call this out! Donald
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Mike is in the right spot also. He could make a quick run up to Redmond and borrow some of Microsoft's pit bulls. [:-shake] They seemed to work well for Billy G. Donald
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It's scary to think what it might turn Brian's Southern drawl into. "I had jowls and grits fer dinner" Translated "I had growls and #@its after dinner" Be afraid, very afraid. Donald
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i really want to be a home inspector ...
DonTx replied to marvintle's topic in Professional Home Inspection Associations
Bill...Bill...Bill, you silly HI. Of course they still use hammers on the job site. How do you think they make the holes in the OSB for flues? Donald -
I have been trading links with inspectors across the country as well. You can find these links at the bottom of my FindAPro page at: http://www.best2inspect.com/findapro.html If you'd like to trade links, just shoot me an email with your contact info and the link where I can see my link on your site. Linking to related sites, especially ones ranked high, will help your site move up the search engine rankings. Donald
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Yes, as long as they are the same size and material.
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Mike, THAT'S THE ONE! The several I've seen have a boiler or 'who knows what' at a central location somewhere in the basement or complex. The ones I've seen are in a high rise of apartments that were turned into condo's. The management would not allow me access to the guts of the building so it was easy to disclaim it and point the finger at the building maint. people. I was more than happy to do that. George, Terence, et al, would this type of system that we're talking about be inspected by the state as well? The unit that is coming up is a condo unit built in 1966. Thanks, Donald
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Every once in a while I get a condo here that has a chiller & boiler operated HVAC system (at least I think that's it). These units usually have drop ceilings and there will be an A coil somewhere with a valve that you turn one way for heat and the other way for A/C (best I remember). Boiler (and chiller?) are centrally located to serve a group of units. Can someone point me in a direction to find out more about these systems? Any advice on what to watch for when checking them out? Donald