Trent Tarter

Thanks for the advise Jim, I found the "Trust Inspection Services" typo. I will call to get it fixed on Monday.

Thanks Marc

I finally broke down and had a professional website made. This is the first rollout, I plan on getting some better photos and making a few changes over the next few months. Here it is https://bluevalleyhomeinspection.com/

I am always looking at ways to write a better report. I have not giving it much thought as to why I leave out "I" and simply start with Recommend. I guess it's because people know what I am talking about. I look report writing as more of a technical writing format that's not the same as typical grammar. I try not to overuse use the term "further evaluate". However, I feel it's the best term to use in many cases. I am open to new ideas if someone's got a good replacement for "further evaluate".

Here's how I would describe it general. Significant fungi/mold growth was found below roof sheathing in attic (north side). Recommend having a qualified mold remediation contractor further evaluate, cleanup and remediate fungi/mold growth as needed. I would list any ventilation issues or contributing factors, but not speculate. In your statement, your first recommendation is to install cellulose (paper based) insulation in a moldy attic before the mold issue is addressed. That's not a good idea and is poor advice. If the mold is serious enough, the existing insulation would likely need to be removed first. Let the experts/mold contractors figure this out. I would stay away from recommending specific insulation depths and types. I would not direct people to EPA unless it was link to a specific web site.

Sounds like you have the standard "Flir One" model. The Flir One Pro is the newest model with more resolution than the standard Flir One.

Wondering if anyone out there is using the FLIR One Pro for home inspections. It seems to have good resolution for $399 price.

I found this device connected to an exterior switch. It's been abandoned as the wire is cut below it. Just wondering what could be?

If you want to know what you're buying you should hire a qualified home inspector for a complete Home Inspection.

This 90+ furnace has flue pipe that increases in size. I would think there's potential for condensation to develop and accumulated near the joints/reducers. No sure when this was done?

I call it the lower trim band.

Personally I would stay away from York and anything else made by Unitary Products. If you're interested in going top of the line or high efficiency I would go with Lennox, Trane, or Bryant. There's lots of mid grade brands that will be fine.

Hi Chad, This is the home's main 200 amp service panel. Sorry I don't have a good pic of front side. Here's a pic of the backside of panel and meter base. The entire electrical system was a mess of non-permitted DIY work. When I opened the wood enclosure at exterior side it had sheets of foil barrier insulation, I got shocked as I was removing them for inspection. Found lots of issues like 12 gauge wire connected to 90 amp breaker, not properly grounded.

This place has some of serious electrical issues, lots non-permitted DIY work. I got minor electrical shock when opening a wood enclose at exterior, they had foil insulation barrier shoved in behind panel near meter base. What I have a question about is the jumper wire that's connected to ground lug at top of panel and at bus bar at side of panel.

Yea Viega is the company I found online. Do they just cut the pipe flush for connections?

This is the first time I've seen these types of gas pipe fittings. They appear to be push fittings connected to standard black iron pipe. I found one company on the web but not much else.

It terminated in crawlspace, it's PEX not PVC). Both TPR drain and the drain pan drain should be routed separately to the exterior, for this type of application.

As far as I know this is not allowed, just wanting to be sure. New construction home has TPR drain that T's into drain pan drain. I see the potential for water to back up in the pan.

Hard to see from the photo. I do not see a metal flue cap at top of chimney. As others have mentioned, the bigger issue would be if it's venting directly into chimney without proper flue liner.

Click to Enlarge 28.66 KB Here's a 1956 water heater still working, from yesterdays inspection.

I commonly see furnace and water heaters with shared flue. I typically see "wye" connectors vs a straight T. I would question the gas fireplace, In my ten years I have never seen one that's doe's not have it's own flue.

Here's 5, ok 6 reasons to not have a garage door opener. *All long as you're physically capable, your door opener will always work. *Less noise is nice. *No more photo eye sensors malfunctioning causing door to not open/close properly. *No need for an auto reverse safety feature. *More overhead room for taller vehicles. * Just one less thing in life to go wrong.

As far as I know they make good mini splits. Daikin is a Japanese multinational company. They bought and acquired Goodman which now makes them the largest HVAC manufacture in the world. Here's an interesting link on one of their ducted systems.

I would not call that out. How else would you connect copper to PVC? Many times in older homes there are things that are not quite perfect but are acceptable.

I have seen a few around 170+. I find it common for real old water heaters to have defective thermostats that cause high temps.