Danny Pritchard

406.8(B)2.C of the NEC says that receptacles can not be within or above the tub space. Also 680.71 which deals with hydromassage tubs says any receptacle within 5' of the tub must be GFI protected. If your receptacle is GFI protected it should be fine.

That looks like split face concrete block.If so the first course or two of block above the opening are steel reinforced and poured solid with concrete.That is what is holding up the rest of the block.I can't tell what that is below the bottom course of block(steel or wood)but it was probably put there to give a finished look to the bottom of those 4" block.

It is not unusual to find an empty beer can or two in the attic.This is the first time I have seen an empty 12 pack.Someone had a party. Download Attachment: Attic party.jpg 74.72 KB

Could this be a regional issue as to close the crawlspace or leave it open.I know in my area open crawlspaces tend to be better than those that are enclosed.

This is a wood frame traditional stucco home about 5 years old.I look at these type homes all the time.Hairline cracks going in all directions are commonplace.These cracks were straight up and down.Which made them unusual.They were bigger than hairline cracks. My thoughts are that either the lath or the wall sheathing was installed wrong.

Yes,there were expansion joints.They were placed about every 10-12 feet along the walls.

Inspected a house today where there were several vertical cracks.Some were continuous from top to bottom.Most of the cracks were about 3 inches off the outcide corners of the house.There were two areas where the cracks were on the open wall and not near any corners or windows.All these were unusual since they went straight up the wall.Any ideas what is going on.Sorry no pics.I took some but the cracks did not show up in the picture.

I looked at this deck a couple of weeks ago. The first picture is of the end unit of a condo complex.The 2nd and 3rd pictures show the balcony joists below the baywindow attached to a ledger that is connected to the I joists of the house using joist hangers.These hangers have been installed upside down and secured to the ledger with 2 nails. Download Attachment: DCP_2539-1.jpg 67.47 KB Download Attachment: DCP_2542.jpg 52.12 KB Download Attachment: DCP_2540.jpg 54.77 KB

Saw this today on an older home that had been remodeled.You would think someone would have enough sense to at least direct it toward the wall. Download Attachment: TP line.jpg 43.23 KB

"Does that mean they are going to start putting moisture barrier on the block and lathing it also?" Probably not.

Thanks Mike , I wrote it up as being wrong. Things are slowly changng in this area .The AHJ recently sent out a memo saying that stucco needs to be installed per ASTM Standards.No more one coat stucco.We will eventually rise to the level of how things should be done.

"That looks like a control trim accessory joint, not an expansion trim accessory joint. There's nothing wrong with ending a control trim accessory joint on top of a window as long as the stucco ends in a casing bead and there is a metal head flashing below the casing bead that is properly incorporated into the assembly." No casing bead.No head flashing.These are items that are only seen on commercial construction in this area. Also the the square is roughly a 12' x 12' area.

"As in cement stucco on expanded metal lath?" That would be it.

I probably should have mentioned this is a wood frame stucco home.

This is a 2 year old home.The expansion joint ending in the window looks wrong.Could someone tell me why it is or isn't correct. Thanks Download Attachment: Exp Jt in window.jpg 47.92 KB

THANKS!

Saw a pool today that had low voltage yard lamps within 5' of the pool.NEC Article 411.4 says they must be at least 10'away unless permitted by Article 680. The lights were plugged into a GFI protected outlet.I went thru 680 and did not see anything to dispute the 10' rule.My thought is since it is on a GFI it is acceptable.Would this be correct?

How is the roof draining? Scuppers, Troughs or Roof Drains What you see is where the roof drains.The staining is about a 1' square area.The Manager of this store said it has grown since he has been there which is about 10 months.Apparently it is not a very active leak. This building is 4 years old.My thought was that the drip edge will hold water and become an issue over time. Thanks Mike for confirming the gravel stop.That is what I thought when I saw it.Typically on roofs like this the flashing is flat the roofing extends past the edge of the flashing so there is no chance of water slipping beneath the roof material. My question is did the roofer use the wrong flashing or is this flashing acceptable even though it allows water to pond at the edge?

Inspected a light commercial building today with parapet walls on three sides.The roof drained to the rear of the building.The attached picture shows the drip edge flashing above an area where staining has occurred on the ceiling tiles.This is a rolled roof ,shouldn't the flashing have a flat top versus the upturned edge? Download Attachment: radio shack roof.jpg 84.27 KB

I bought one several years ago at the big orange for about $30.It measures PSI and rate of flow.This is the same one that is in the mail order cataogs for much more.I rarely use it but it is durable enough for me.

Is there a specified period of time that felt can be exposed to the sun before it starts to become damaged?I thought there was a topic on ths awhile back that said 60 days but I could not find it doing a search. Thanks.

Does anyone know if housewrap has an exposure time before it has to be covered.I have a client who is building a new home.She has been having trouble with the builder and because of that little work has been done on the house.The housewrap has been on the home for over 90 days.I have left a message with the manufacturers represenative but have not received a response as yet. Thanks

Thanks Mike!

This is on a personal note.My son recently bought a home that is almost 100 years old.It is 2 story wood framed with wood siding.It has no insulation anywhere.What would be the best way to insulate the walls.I can't install batt insulation because it would probably get wet next to the siding.Is there something out there designed for this type situation.i tried searching the wed but didn't see anything that would apply to this situation. Thanks

I normally see oversized breakers on AC units when they have been replaced.The newer units are apparently more efficient and require less power.