mark parlee

Marc The various specs try to cover every scenario. Without a drain plan this assembly can be very unforgiving over time and some of the problem I see have developed in a short amount of time. I have looked at three in the last six months that were less than a year old. As was pointed out in an earlier post this stone assembly is basically a stucco with rocks in the surface. I do not see many that use the weep screeds or casing beads. Generally it has the WRB over the sheathing, the wire mesh, and the faux stone. This is all applied in a hurried manner without regard to some of the finer detail required to make the assembly drain. I don't care how many layer of paper you put on if the assembly fills up the liner will eventually leak. on the repairs I have been involved it goes this way. Wall sheathing, WRB, layer of grade D, metal accessories, Delta dry or MTI, metal lath, scratch coat, rocks. This allows any incidental moisture to have a clear path to drain. Page 6 MVMA left side last paragraph: Rainscreen Drainage Plane Systems (Optional), should be mandatory. Delta Dry http://www.cosella-dorken.com/bvf-ca-en ... ts/dry.php MTI http://www.mtidry.com/

David I remember seeing the masons do that on a job or two in my earlier days; They did use automotive antifreeze.

Peter thanks for the info I see that was published 2009. The LP products are as you say and I find them to be a very substantial product. If installation instructions are followed these products will last but the problem I often see is that the clearances are not maintained and that is where the degradation starts.

Thanks Mike. The details are important as this system is, by some estimates, capable of storing ten times the moisture that an EIF system can. I wrote the article on stone that appeared in the Dec 08 issue of the JLC on rescuing a manufactured-stone wall. This followed all of the current procedures of the time from the Cultured stone installation manual that Certainteed had published. Very little difference in the current MVMA guidelines. I now specify a rainscreen type mater to be used and we have absolutely no problems as we have given a clear channel for incidental moisture to drain. It is a wonder what this detail has done making this stone a barrier type system no longer. I have consulted on five stone jobs in the last two years where the moisture has intruded so severely to where it is considered to a complete wall failure. Since the article I have directly consulted on 7 of these failures and indirectly on 8 around the country. we do have problems and I have believe the stone problem will make the EIFS problem to look like a tiny drop in the bucket.

One of my favorite pictures Nine years old Click to Enlarge 60.45 KB Click to Enlarge 28.43 KB

Yes I think you are right. I am still looking for any info that is from one of the manufacturers that states they rely on OSB being a weather restive sheathing. I was recently had a case that covered a hundred townhomes built 14 to 15 years ago under the 91 UBC. The sheathing was exterior gyp, siding was vinyl, no housewrap. The leaks were starting to show up. THe builder hired an engineering firm to counter my observations and report calling some of my conclusions "novel theory". My clients prevailed at a settlement the day before trial. It is pretty sad some of the things we are starting to se in homes that are not very old.

Post 17 code info edited to correct upload

Ben Here is a diagram of installation for the manufactured type door jamb surrounds. http://toolbelt.buildiq.com/tool-docs/S ... oorSBS.pdf It goes in much the same as a window. If you are replacing the jamb and have to bend your own metal trims just add a drip at the head that has a two inch upturn and tape it in properly as you would a window. make sure you do not use ACQ for the door buck as it will cause any aluminum to degrade.

not sure what is going wrong with my attachment. Any help would be welcomed

WOW Getting here late I have one thirty unit complex that was built from 15.5 to 1.5 years ago. This was built under the 1982 UBC. I can show where in fact protection to the sheathing is required. Then it was not called WRB rather paper or weather resistant sheathing. Plywood, OSB, fiber board, do not qualify. This case is going to court for around 3/4 mil. against the original builder. These points of moisture intrusion can take 10 to 12 years to show up to the inside. I have another 100 plus unit complex with exterior gyp sheathing, Vinyl siding; no WRB protection of any sort; we will see about this one. [ Download Attachment: 82 UBC sec 1707a .pdf 167.58 KB

Here is a report I did on a consultation for this; maybe it is of some use in defining the problem. This did go to arbitration but no fault was found with the builder of the home that was experiencing problems. The grass apparently get heat lines in it in the summer; i have not witnessed this first hand. Download Attachment: Rihmnd -3.7mb .pdf 1759.29 KB

Late here as well that is smooth Hardie

Getting in here a little late but here are a bunch of pictures of cement board siding failures. These are all due to the installation methods of the installers and not following the instructions.This is all freeze damage but shows the delicate nature of this product. It is not concrete siding as so many fondly call it. If I install one of each of the sidings that we have used over the years, too close to the roof plane, Fiber cement will be the first to fail. Download Attachment: 1 Cement board siding damage4perpg.pdf 257.26 KB Download Attachment: 2 Cement board siding damage4perpg.pdf 523.59 KB Download Attachment: 3 Cement board siding damage4perpg.pdf 505.95 KB Download Attachment: 4 Cement board siding damage4perpg.pdf 394.58 KB

Thanks Mike

More than likely those windows are a vinyl window with an integrated J channel to accept vinyl siding. If the SAF(self adhered flashing) tape and the WRB (weather resistant barrier) is detailed correctly this should not be a problem. The use of any tape that contains asphaltic materiel may be a problem due to material incompatibility problems with a number of common brands of sealants that installers use. The thing that no one has commented on is the fascia that appears to be way out of level plane; maybe this is a distortion by the angle. Click to Enlarge 3.31 KB BTW how do I get email notification of activity on a thread and how do I get my doctored pic back to the bigger size

http://www.culturedstone.com/ This is the document I used to start with as a basis for a consult I did for a problematic stone install. the PDF is of the resultant article I wrote and was published in the Dec issue of the JLC Here is a copy of the email I received from Joe S regarding the the article Nice case study. I thought you got it all bang on. Some folks are being even more conservative out on the east coast by installing a 3/8 inch polypropylene mesh spacer like "Home Slicker" by Benjamin Obdyke between the primary drainage plane and the exterior building paper bond break to increase drainage and to promote some back ventilation. Joe Mark Parlee Download Attachment: JLC cultured stone dec08 from web.pdf 1071.62 KB

Thanks Kurt I will check that software out but I think you may be right in my needing to do my own Mark

Mark Parlee here. Long time poster on JLC. I have an exterior renovation company that and we specialize in correcting problems relating to moisture intrusion. I am finding myself very busy inspecting homes with problems related to moisture intrusion and giving a report on what I find. The way I have been doing it is in Publisher with captions describing the problems that are in the photos. This is a very effective way for me to communicate to my client the problems they are experiencing but it is also a little time consuming. i found this software and wonder if any of you have heard of it or are using it? Report Maker Pro http://www.reportmakerpro.com/home.asp I am not doing complete home inspections so I do not need all the lines some of you use . Any suggestions would be appreciated. I do have a sample report but am having a bit of problem with the upload Mark

That looks Like the Home Slicker product from Benjamin Obdyke http://www.benjaminobdyke.com/visitor/p ... omeSlicker http://www.benjaminobdyke.com/products/ ... /37_69.jpg