Jerry Lozier

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yep, could be an ice dam. thanks

Weekend only 12 year old vacation home in snow country, owners said in disclosure snow melt caused flooding. Yes it has negative grade as shown. However trying to figure out how they could get 6"+ flood (sediment line around garage interior) from snow melt and a garage door entrance unless they has garage door was sandbagged? Slight negative slope at garage apron (maybe 2") minimal visible damage to sheetrock, loose tape only, so water must have went up and down real quick? Balance of downstairs rooms no visible evidence of flooding except carpet had been removed. Any other thoughts? Click to Enlarge 70.21 KB Click to Enlarge 49.79 KB Click to Enlarge 77.4 KB Click to Enlarge 53.1 KB Click to Enlarge 41.66 KB Click to Enlarge 31.11 KB Click to Enlarge 33.54 KB

I call out when I see spark source below 18" in a garage as a safety concern. (supposedly gas fumes don't go above 18"??) anyway: Seen several garages (not the same builder, maybe the same electrician) that install fan assisted heaters below 18". Receptacles are all up about 4 ft. Am I missing something here? Click to Enlarge 7.51 KB

No gutter, one panel backed up to meter base other panel in garage maybe 20' away.

A slight drift from '10 gauge run to 100 amp fused subpanel' yesterdays inspection: Late 1970's detached shop on slab with it's own meter with overhead feed from the utility. (2)100 amp panels: one to apartment, one to garage. 3 feeder cables each, with neutrals and grounds bonded as they should be. Both had 100 amp main breakers with tie downs. Outside of substandard legend and a couple double tabs which needed fixed the only other thing was there was no evidence of GEC at meter base, or in either panel. I called for fix of double taps and the legend, and adding GEC to current stds. Was there another path to ground I missed?? Did I miss something with GEC??

Jim: aren't 3 wire subpanels also limited to no more than one branch circuit???

think I said: Seems they could have nuisance tripping from fan motor? kind of a question not an 'absolute' ?

I don't know where WA is in terms of AFCI requirements. The NEC, though, requires AFCI protection at all 120-volt, 15- and 20-amp circuits that have outlets in bedrooms (among many other places). A heater is an "outlet" in that it's a location where electricity is supplied to equipment. So if it's a 120-volt, 15- or 20-amp circuit, it should have AFCI protection. You're not used to seeing it because, I think, 120-volt wall heaters are uncommon and the AFCI requirements are recent. Makes sense Jim... Yes these were 120 V each, what I normally see is these heaters (paired up) on 240V breakers. So that lends to this question? Why use 120V with the additional cost of AFCI breakers and would 120v heaters be more economical to operate in this world of high utility costs??...... Jerry

Brand new home yesterday. AFCI's in bedrooms as required, however have never seen fan assisted wall heaters on AFCI before (they had their own AFCI breakers) Seems they could have nuisance tripping from fan motor? Anybody seen that before?

Not liking the new 'tamper proof' GFCI receptacles. 2 of the 3 on exterior of home I could not get 3-prong tester to insert. Usually a little side to side is all it takes: not these. They trip fine with button, but not much use if you can't plug anything into them: IMO Click to Enlarge 24.85 KB ALSO: this weatherproof cover suspends receptacle with space all the way around it leaving conductors (somewhat) exposed. I'm thinking there must be an inner shield someone left out??

Got a call from a client who has been in their new (to them) log home about a month. Evidently they have discovered a bunch of bats living in the vaulted ceiling space and around the chimney in the walls. Vaulted wood ceilings and they said getting some poop dropping down into the kitchen and other areas. They got a quote for $1900 to remove them, don't know the how to details or warranty? Anybody have advice or experience with bat infestations?

Thank you gentlemen, as I suspected.

Yes main panel (first disconnect) and meter base are remote and have proper ground. Remote distribution (sub) panel pictured in my post above, never seen one with the #6 copper GEC connected to neutral bar rather than ground bar. 6 year old install with L&I stickers approval of installation, just wanted to know if they knew something I didn't... So wanting to confirm it is incorrect as currently installed.. Click to Enlarge 95.65 KB

Main panel is an outside pedestal: looks good 4 wire service coming to SUBPANEL in house basement Neutrals and grounds are on separate bars as they should be. Green (ground) cable from main panel goes to ground bar in sub ***Solid Copper from ground rod attaches to neutral bar. (That don't seem right as doesn't the ground usually attach to the ground side with the cable from the main panel so the neutrals stay isolated) I'm thinking the only cable attached to neutral side should be the neutral cable from the main panel. Am I missing something here?? Click to Enlarge 43.36 KB Click to Enlarge 35.05 KB Click to Enlarge 35.3 KB Click to Enlarge 35.09 KB Click to Enlarge 40.71 KB

Bizarre... The only power was coming out of the wall to the disposal. DW was running away when I took this pic, should have tripped the GFCI or pulled the plug to see if it stopped. I was dazzled[:-sour]

Click to Enlarge 36.14 KB Hadn't seen this before.. !! NM to disposal, appliance cord with an plug to energize receptacle (which is a GFCI) dishwasher plugged into GFCI brilliant!

yep.... thanks

You guys were right on with info, thanks talked to the installer/ builder on the unit. said it is a 2 stage hp, ductless mini split in main room, that has refrigerant lines that run to evaporator in attic (which I photoed, just didn't know what it is) Said evaporator is all wrapped in insulation because there is nothing to view or service. (don't guess it needs outside air flow?) The ducts come directly off attic unit that is why it looked like a duct manifold to me! He said he has been putting them in for a couple years, and has had zero complaints even down to zero degrees. Said they are cheap to run (low amp draw) especially at low temps because there is no electric furnace backup. He is sending me an info brochure on them which I will post when I get it.

Empty house on full basement, no outside unit. 2 attic accesses: nothing there but that large 'manifold or plenum' covered in insulation. No walkway from access points to indicate some kind of serviceable unit up there. I'm stumped

heres some more labels, I could not get a good shot of air handler or whatever in attic (to big and close), it was approx 3' wide, 2 high, 4' long, wrapped in insulation, no wood platform indicating some that would be some kind of serviceable unit.??? Click to Enlarge 40.06 KB Click to Enlarge 21.99 KB Click to Enlarge 40.66 KB Click to Enlarge 43.32 KB

Inside unit was blowing warm air as was the ceiling registers in each room, now I'm confused. That was the only heat except 2 small fan assited wall heaters in bathrooms

Brand new home, R-49+ in attic, 2x6 w/ high density batts. Marc: Don't know size of cables to inside unit, what would I look for, are you talking refrigerent lines or electric cables?? BTW this was a ducted system: There was a unit or something I thought was a duct manifold in the attic Outside today was 40 degrees, home temp was 62, took 1/2 hour to reach 68 in home. HVAC Guy told me they do not (normally) have auxillary heat and possibly needs to be added, so I told clients to ask installer. How you would tell (aux heat) or test it?

Mitsubishi Mr Slim Heat Pump R410A. Anybody real familiar with these No auxillary or backup heat switch on thermostat I was told that at the low temperature (near zero) operation they need supplemental backup (auxiliary) heat source as it is not like a standard heat pump with electric heat backup. (Area of installation can get down to zero degrees.) Click to Enlarge 33.11 KB Click to Enlarge 18.97 KB Click to Enlarge 36.27 KB Click to Enlarge 13.24 KB

Pretty cool poster Mike.... what program do you use???