Jerry Lozier

That's good.... goes right along with the driving on bald tires analogy

Good point Eric..... how many times are we asked on some safety item: " Is that really a problem?" I usually respond: "only if there is a fire, or someone gets electrocuted!"

Thanks Jim... Always something to learn, however I will probably forget that before I see it again.

2006 home yesterday, Goodman heat pump. Temp was high teens and snowing. Outside unit running in heat mode and putting out 70-80 degrees out of registers, and switched one time (that I saw) to defrost and all that seems to be working fine, nothing unusual. Went to test aux / emerg heat on unit and thermostat does not have a mode for that. Probably seen a hundred HP's over the years, Click to Enlarge 35.04 KB however have never seen a heat pump w/o a switch on thermostat for manually switching to aux heat. Not common to me, think it is wrong thermostat.... I am sure it will switch automatically when temp is low enough which it frequently get sub zero in this area, but I couldn't check that. How do you test or start aux heat or is it the wrong thermostat??????

Thanks John.

No generator hookup yes those 8 guys at lower left are contacts no rockers switches.

Estate home from a former electrical engineer. Not what I normally see. Probably leftover stuff from years of work at Nuke plant. Click to Enlarge 63.59 KB Found this panel way back in corner of attic. Controller for (4) baseboard heaters(?) in upstairs rooms. #6 copper on 50amp breaker in panel and coming into this panel. Did not see any feeders for power going to baseboards out of this. Any other ideas?

I have in my contract that I charge extra for the SPI report and explain to my clients that if I find WDI during the course of the inspection there will be an additional fee for the report. Because I did not find WDI during the inspection, and we did not find out till later a report was necessary I chose not to bill the client for report. It was a business decision I felt good about.... Jerry

Hey Robert, there are a couple lenders/ realtors here in my area that bring this up to my potential clients once in a while. I tell my clients that FHA does not have their own inspectors (and furnish the FHA website that says so) just appraisers and explain the difference. However I tell them they (FHA) does have a 'approved list' and I choose not to be a part of that gov list as it is not mandatory. (to my knowledge) I also tell them I am licensed in WA state to do HI and WSDA licensed to do pest inspections... and do dozens of (very thorough and accurate) inspections for HUD/FHA/VA loans yearly. I also tell them what FHA appraisers look for, and that my inspections have never been a problem, and they can hire any (WA licensed) independent inspector they choose. I usually schedule the inspection at that point, (unless they are looking for the $200 HI special) Jerry BTW on a different note, there are a couple lenders (3-4 times this year) that require the home is termite free, I do not find out until a couple weeks later they require (specific) paperwork, so I have them send the paperwork which I fill out and send back. Good reason for me to keep SPI as I suppose client would have to have a SPI inspection to close the loan.

thank you guys for the comments

Heres some photos, pulled back insulation in about a dozen random places, only found a couple places that had no splotches, some were on TJI's, some none on TJI's Not a significant amount but on a 3 year old home certainly an indicator of where this could go without fixing conducive conditions especially lack of cross ventilation/ perimeter vents typical Click to Enlarge 48.54 KB couple with no spots Click to Enlarge 52.75 KB Click to Enlarge 53.71 KB Click to Enlarge 50.27 KB Click to Enlarge 29.29 KB

2008 custom home, lack of ventilation w/ extensive high moisture indicators, rust, condensation 4000 sq '+ crawlspace....radiant hot water floor heat plus high efficency gas forced air spotty areas of beginnings black organic growth/ mildew/ mold between floor batts and subfloor.... pictures to follow later today....sorry Obviously ventilation needs drastic improvement and at minimum that will be the recommendation, HOWEVER: what say you on killing the BOG i.e pull down insulation, spray with borate solution a couple times, dry out with blowers and heaters, reinstall insulation. WHAT would be your best recommendation (besides:run) I hate to get a mold eradication company involved unless necessary, any other thoughts

As I suspected...... thank you

Remoldel on older home, switched previous main panel to sub panel off new main panel. Old 200 amp main (now just a disconnect) they ran #2 AL with a 70 amp breaker in new main panel. QUESTION: any reason the old (now subpanel) should not have been rewired with neutrals floated as they are bonded like a main panel. old panel Click to Enlarge 34.32 KB #2 AL from new panel Click to Enlarge 41.78 KB 70 amp breaker in new panel to sub Click to Enlarge 47.95 KB Grounds and neutrals bonded Click to Enlarge 58.88 KB thanks guys

I like web based... http://www.reporthost.com/ nice, easy to add your own stuff, easy photo download minimal cost per mo; no software costs; summary page; easy to send out your contract check out their sample reports at their site

See w/o lockout all the time, including one last Sat.... scary deal when new owner doesn't understand the consequences and failure to kill the panel.

Hmmm??? How would they connect those feeders (not SECs) in the main panel? I mean, if that main panel is the service equipment with a 200-amp breaker as the service disconnect, you can't just use those bottom lugs to feed something else downstream. yep, can't quite grasp how they would do that unless they ran something out of meter base which was just to the left of the main panel and those loose 4/0 feeders.

We had other issues in other places that will need an electrician anyway but this was a little different to my experience: Home has 2 meters this one on the barn, (w/ small apartment) This Main panel has 4/0 Alum SEC coming in with 200 amp breaker(not shown), 60amp breaker (in main panel) protects inside sub panel, feeders (#2 alum?) attaches to 4/0 attached to a 200amp breaker. Sub panel had a permit sticker oking 60amp service. (from1990) (neutrals and grounds were not bonded at sub) I told client though this is weird I think subpanel is ok as it is still protected by 60 amp in main panel. ???Was that correct? Is this common?? as I don't know what they were thinking... BYW... the Bare 4/0 SEC runs underground to a future RV panel(?) Click to Enlarge 54.84 KB main panel, Click to Enlarge 57.76 KB subpanel Click to Enlarge 43.18 KB subpanel

Yep.... and party lines, certain ring for your house, ours was one long, one short... phone #: 549J late 50's

But when the insurance company settles a BS claim instead of fighting to prove the inspector is not at fault costs the inspector his deductable and the next years premium goes up. What is the typicaly E&O deductable? $5000. So an honest inspector that did nothing to be held liable for is screwed out of a big piece of change because the insurance company is in business for themselves and have zero interest in anything else. Don't know much about them other than they have started an E&O Insurance company geared for HI's.... evidently they WILL NOT throw the inspector under the bus at the first quiver of a lawsuit. I have not checked them out so this is rumor but will prior to next insurance season: Lockton Affinity program for Errors & Omissions Insurance, http://inspectors.locktonaffinity.com or call 800-803-9552. If anyone has or knows anything else, I would like to know the findings Jerry

Yep.....concur on internet and google. Another one: approached about an investment opportunity by a couple upstarts (Bill Gates Paul Allen) back in late 80's. I think it was $5k for a thousand shares. yea right.... like I would jump on that I'd have missed the fun reading these posts

thanks guys Don't know what I was thinking, yes local AHJ requires, does seem kinda ironic though??

New House: Never seen smoke alarms tied into AFCI before:when I tripped AFCI to test, all smoke alarm indicator lights throughout house went off Click to Enlarge 49.32 KB Still has battery backup.... Outside of probably not being best practice.... what say you??

If there's no refrigerator in the kitchen and the refrigerator outlet is situated near that panel then I comment on the need for the panel to remain accessible. Marc Good point from pic, Yes looks like place for fridge, however fridge was installed in kitchen in another area. This was the start of carpeted area just before getting into dining room.... thanks for the quick replies. Jerry

Thanks less, did not notice address on flyer