blazenut

Is this an indirect water heater setup?

Does it look like this BW water heater is only being used as a storage tank from the boiler? I havent seen one hooked up quite like this before. Download Attachment: water heater 1.jpg 1000.76 KB Click to Enlarge 43.21 KB

Who do you get the insurance from, and can you get if for an indoor tank?

How do you guys write up old, indoor rusty oil tanks? I feel like i have to let my clients know that there is the possibility of leaks that could end up being extremely costly to clean up and remedy. But how often do you guys write it up?

Is there a limit to how many of these double breakers (not double pole)you can have in a panel, or is it just a matter of how crowded the panel gets that matters more? In other words, is ok to just keep adding these instead of a subpanel if more breakers are needed? Click to Enlarge 10.36 KB

I found this... Thanks... "While inspecting the roof you will notice there are no algae stains directly below the metal flashings, flue pipes or roof vents. Why? Because metal oxides (rust) released when rain hits the metal prevent the formation and growth of algae."

How does that work? Is it a reaction with the metal and the water that prevents the algea growth? (just in case im asked...)

What is the point (if any) of the flashing seen below. It was copper, the upper edge wasnt even covered by the shingles above in most cases and it was on both sides of the gable in some locations??? The nail heads were also exposed without roofing cement. Thoughts? Click to Enlarge 83.87 KB Click to Enlarge 78.79 KB Click to Enlarge 68.98 KB Click to Enlarge 90.38 KB

I was at a house today with a 200 amp service cable that went to one of two meters. Out of that meter went a 100 amp line to the main panel with its own 100 amp main shutoff. The other line coming out of the meter was for an off peak meter for the water heater at 30 amps. What comments, if any, would you make about this set up?

1) Ok, so this may seem like a really stupid response here, but i have to ask you guys anyway. So, if amps are amps, and you have a 100 amp service, and at a moment more than a total of 100 amps are being used (central air, stove, dryer, coffee maker ect.) all at the same time, with each of the individual circuit still within their amperage breaker size, can you trip the main breaker? Also 2) If you have a 30 amp double pole breaker (15 amp each), can you run 2 seperate 15 amp branch lines safely one from each (say like one for one baseboard heater and one for another in the same room), one from each side of the double pole breaker (each breaker), is that safe to do? Is a double pole breaker literally just two single pole breakers bridged together?

Electric is not my strongest topic here... for two, 240 volt, 4.1 amp baseboard heaters, i was under the impression that i needed a double pole breaker for the 240 volts. The reason im asking (and just for my own basic knowledge) is that i have an unused (from my old well pump) double poled (2-15 amp) breaker that i was wondering if i can use for these two baseboard heaters, with nothing other than the two heaters on the circuit.

What breaker size is necessary for 2) 240Volt, 1000 Watt, 3413 BTU/HR, 4.1 Amp baseboard heaters? And what wire guage? Thanks.

the reason i was looking at a pinless one is because i have two cheaper pinned ones, id like to have one that wont leave marks on the walls. Does anyone have experience with the aquant? What are the main differences between the two? I'm really interested in a deep scanning one for looking around windows in stucco houses, drywall and plaster ceiling and walls, and rim and rake boards where leaks are evident. Based on these tasks id like to perform (plus it would be nice to get one that fits in my tool belt!) which one would you guys suggest?

Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a pinless moisture meter. Whats the best one for the money? The protimeter sm? best site to get it from? Thanks for the advice.

I would not ignore this problem, i would recommended treatment. However, 2400 sounds like alot! I work with termite inspectors all the time, usually treatments are around half of that and they guarantee the work for a year after treatment. Also, beware of companies that use bait systems... The drilling method is the best, the treatments can last up to 20-30 years. If they got in one time, they will be back. Look around the exterior of the home for the siding touching soil, and heavy overgrowth.

I did cut them off for him, however this was a presurized system apparently because as i was standing there looking at it, "water" started gushing out of the broken pipe! fixed it before the big flood though... there must have been a pumping station.

If you cant put metal in a microwave, why can they have metal shelving? I had a client ask me this and i didnt know what to say... Thanks. Download Attachment: Micorwave.JPG 54.19 KB

I just got a frantic call from my brother in law saying that while he was mowing his yard, he hit and broke off one of four 1.5" pvc pipes sticking out of his drain field for his septic system. The pipe has a cap on it (had), so im assuming it is not a vent. What is this pipes function, and is it ok if it remains broken (with a rag stuffed in the broken pipe) for a few days till i get over there to fix it for him? Thanks.

How can you tell by looking at the ground connection if it is a ufer ground?

thank you

Anyone?

Do you guys report that a ground rod should be installed if the only source of grounding for the electrical system is to city water (since renovations often compromise the grounding system by adding plastic piping)? And if so, who would istall the ground rod, an electrician, that you would have to pay, or the electric company that would do it their expense? Thanks in advance.

What would possibly cause that, and what could you check at the inspection to verify this? The filter was new, some of the registers were a little beat up but im fairly sure that air was flowing ok. The compressors fins had some damage, but not that much out of the ordinary. How would you report this?

I have read that you should ideally have a 14-19 degree temperature difference between the registers and returns while testing the A/C. Today i inspected a home and the difference was over 25 degrees in some locations. Is this a problem? The compressor was 7 years old.

Do ASHI standards require us to open the meters? This meter didnt look any different than any other meter from the outside.