tim5055

OK, maybe "all over" is a stretch. We had none anywhere near our house just outside Washington, DC either.

stations carry it all over Check out Pure-gas.org

It is a thirsty bugger. 10 hours at 50%, 16 gal tank. Yes, I usually keep several cans full, rotating them through mowers and other tools or the car gas tank. For my generators I usually fill it in the spring and add Stabil. it gets drained and refilled yearly. I use ethanol free gas and when I test run them monthly I shut off the fuel valve so it runs dry. During a power outage I usually don't run it 24/7, but 10 - 12 hours a day.

If you are giving them ball park pricing don't forget labor. I did a lot of the labor myself, but did pay an electrician to play around in the panels. I have two 200a panels side by side and only one of them will be powered. He had to swap ten circuits between the panels (five in each panel) so I would have the correct circuits powered. I had all wire pulled and everything installed so all he had to do was play in the panels. I was lucky to have the Square D panels as Square D makes their own approved interface kit. There is a company out of NC if I remember correctly that makes aftermarket kits, but they are not "approved" by the manufacturer of the load center - if that matters.

Generator from Amazon, $2,399 (Prime member, no shipping) Generator Power Cord w/ Straight Blade 50a 220v $200 Amazon Weatherproof Power Inlet Box w/ Flip Lid Home Depot $75 Squared D kit $49 Home Depot Figure another $100 in #8 wire and assorted "stuff" Reviews talks about it running 3 ton central air, but my main cent air is 5 ton. I do have a 1.5 ton that runs a couple of rooms over the garage. I'm going to do a little testing to see how things work out. I may just pick up a 15,000 BTU portable A/C to keep the master bedroom cool and not worry about the central. Everyone here is helpful with their suggestions, so I figured I'd show the final product.

LOL[:-bigeyes I keep forgetting that my monitor resizes everything automatically. I have reduced them 60% - enough?

Well, I discussed several generator interlock kits I found for my Square D QO load center and finished the work today. I purchased this QO Cover Generator and QOM2 Frame Size Main Breaker Interlock Kit I also purchased a Generac GP15000E generator. 15,000 watts with 22,500 starting watts. Here is the generator: Generator connected to the interface on the exterior of the house The interlock kit has a bracket that you install to make the breaker in the 2/4 position in the panel captive. Back of the dead front showing how the interface bracket attaches: Front of the dead front. Note that the interface bracket once the dead front is installed will not allow the main and the breaker in the 2/4 position be "ON" at the same time. The 2/4 breaker back feeds from the generator.

Apparently they are now called compact kitchens HERE is one vendor. Price depends on size

They're not 15-amp, are they? See, there you go asking pertinent questions. Now I have to look, but I'm going to guess they are[:-yuck] Guess a trip to Lowes will be involved in this project. Thanks for keeping me straight Jim!

If you install a switch in sight of the water heater, then it doesn't need to be lockable. A double pole single throw switch would be fine. Perfect, Thanks Jim. It's funny, I just helped a friend out who was having problems with two three way switches. Turns out when he changed the color of switches for the wife he bought two double pole single throw switches instead of three ways.... I have two switches.

Can you elaborate on the situation with your water heaters and describe what you want to do? Marc Just looking to add an electrical disconnect, at the electric water heaters, when not in sight of the panel. The heaters are in the crawl and are not within sight of the panel

Every time I come to this site I end up with another project on my list. As I have two water heaters in the crawl space, can I just add switches? Double pole single throw? I guess I'm asking does a switch meet the definition of "capable of being locked in the open position."

I dropped my AL membership (or is it really a subscription) due to this fact. I don't like them telling me they are unbiased at the same time they are selling higher positions on the search I do. Just seems to be a poor way of doing business. Plus, it's difficult to get out of AL. You need to call after this date but before another date or they will auto-renew your membership. When you call you get the hard sell before they "let" you cancel. I like to think of myself as a level headed consumer, and I know there will always be a few "nut-job" reviews about anything. My habit is that when I see a negative review I check other reviews from that person. Usually you will find that they have a history of negative reviews or that this review is their only one. The web has given us (the consumer) great power in finding service providers. You just have to take the time to properly vet the results you get. Unfortunately many think that by paying AL they don't have to do the vetting at all.

Wow, after reading this is feel lucky. In my area they only charge $240 for the second meter to separate irrigation and yard use from the sewer use. Additionally for the fee they come out and install if. Remember, the folks who work for the town really work for you - the residents. Get your elected council members involved, they usually want to get re-elected[]

All I can say is I have a GFCI breaker on my pool light and I almost always have the light turned off when swimming. The light is there for "effect" looking out the windows at night.

Pool electrocution lawsuit - not sure of the HI involvement, but via Google found his website and he advertises inspecting pool pumps and heaters Read more here: http://www.miamiherald.com/2014/06/24/4 ... rylink=cpy

This is a tough crowd....

I found it interesting that if you scroll to their patent section they hold this patent: "Device for Preventing Electrically Induced Fires in Gas Tubing". Holding this patent I believe that their forensic analysis could be questioned as "self serving" by some.

Well, I'm the token homeowner here (I just hang around because this is a great group of folks), but I'll jump in and comment. Sorry if it seems negative, but it is my first impression of your web presence. When I search "home inspector Orwell, OH 44076" you end up on page two. Listen to John, you need to be on page one. Jim has provided a wealth of information - listen. When I do get to your web page as a home buyer I don't get a warm fuzzy feeling. I do see that you have sections for "Realtors", "Buyers" and "Sellers", but as a buyer I'm clicking on all three to see your story. In the "Realtor" section you say "I am a new Home Inspector" so you have just lost me as a customer. I had to search your page to find this "Alpine Home Inspections LLC is currently serving Ashtabula, Geauga, Lake and neighboring counties." As a buyer in the area I have no idea what cities are in those counties. Be a little more specific on what area you cover. Do you go to Sandusky? How about Bowling Green? (OK, I'm cheating, the wife is from Toledo and went to BGSU), but I think you get the idea. You know the area; I don't - I'm just moving here. The references button which is prominent on your home page says "This part of my website is still under construction. Thank you for your understanding.". This tells me you don't have any. Loose the button until you do. Your pricing page confuses me. Plus for this, minus for that. Give me something I can sink my teeth into or ask me to call you for specifics. I just purchased a home six months ago. You can ask the guys here, I worked hard at finding an inspector. Immediate turn offs for me: A less than professional web page. A non working phone number Slow e-mail response

Marc Thnaks Marc... Just had to show no combined TPR discharge piping, huh? Nuf said[:-weepn]

I see a couple sitting on the drivers seat, so you are probably right......

Your explanation explains most of the ply in my old house, but there were several sheets not at corners. I has been several year (and a few adult beverages) so I can't remember the pattern.

The house we just sold in Northern VA has the same or very similar sheathing. When we pulled the metal siding off to put the Hardi up the contractor discovered it on about 75% of the house. I was never able to figure out how it was laid out that 5/8 ply went in some areas and the rest was this wood fiber product.

Thanks to everyone for taking the time to read and respond. After moving the sensor to what I suspected was the "wetter" area the RH has risen to 59%. As I suspected I may need to move the air around a little.

No worries Mike, I'm not a mold nut. Probably a poor choice of descriptive words in my haste. This one area of the crawl has a greater population of growing stuff that is black in color. I'm not trying to say it is a specific mold. As I suspected this area has a higher RH, as it started climbing when I moved the sensor there. Maybe a fan is in order to keep the air moving.