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  1. While it is probably a good idea to let your client know that the fridge is GFCI protected, I would not call it a "defect" as in many cases it is now required to be GFCI protected. Recommending a receptacle alarm might be a good idea though.
  2. And now of course the dishwasher and receptacles within 6 feet of the sink (including under the sink, frig, range, cooktop etc) also have to be GFCI protected---and AFCI protected for that matter. Easiest to do it with a dual function breaker in the panel probably.
  3. Jim you disagree with me in the first paragraph and eloquently get at what I am talking about in the second:)
  4. Richard, in my experience when the flood coat gets that cracked its rate of expansion and contraction is VERY high and works at the underlying felt layers very hard---leading to failure and leaking. To me the roof you have pictured is very vulnerable to leaking and I would consider it in need of replacement. One could make a good case for having the roof scanned if you wanted to try and get some more life out of it. Once water gets into these multi-layer felt built up roofs all bets are off. Once water gets into it, you will have the elements working against it from the inside and the outside. Just my two cents.
  5. I know this isn't the kind of stuff we are used to seeing from the 60's and 70's but I have had a couple of new construction (2008) that had single strand #6 aluminum for the range. I think we may see aluminum single strand in the smaller gauges sneaking its way back into the market.
  6. Richard overall the State of Wa has decided to Not require them but several of the large municipalities like Seattle for sure, and I think also Bellevue have adopted the New NEC requirement for all 120volt circuits. Sure is going to make it fun
  7. That end wall "truss" is not technically a "truss"----just filler the shape of the trusses and the filler-truss transfers its roof loads to the wall below. One can pretty much do what they want to this structure----like create the outriggers for the overhang.
  8. Scott, I have to think that if the house is only a year old they may have been damaged during installation. The edges are brittle and that fancy decorative coloring is very thin.
  9. So the area was broken and then the seller gets mad because the broken part got "broker"?[:-graduat
  10. Mike, thanks for posting this, I am seeing quite often where the HVAC or gas fireplace guys are coming in and running the CSST all over the place and because they aren't electricians the bonding hasn't been getting done. Guess it is our job to make sure it gets done
  11. From the IRC: P3003.2 Prohibited joints. Running threads and bands shall not be used in the drainage system. Drainage and vent piping shall not be drilled, tapped, burned or welded. The following types of joints and connections shall be prohibited: 1. Cement or concrete. 2. Mastic or hot-pour bituminous joints. 3. Joints made with fittings not approved for the specific installation. 4. Joints between different diameter pipes made with elastomeric rolling O-rings. 5. Solvent-cement joints between different types of plastic pipe.6. Saddle-type fittings.
  12. Are they always the "visible trip" type or is homeline on the list too?
  13. Thanks Jim----a little under the weather and my brain isn't functioning very well
  14. Anyone know why my previous response to this thread disappeared? What I had said was that you have to be careful with these volt alert testers because they just indicate voltage and not whether there is any amperage there. “Phantom voltageâ€
  15. Those volt sticks will often go off even when the wire isn't hot. They will read "phantom voltage" or induced current just as well. For example if the ground wire in romex is not used and that wire has been added to a knob & tube circuit the ground wire (and everything it is attached to) will read "hot". So, take a frig with a three prong plug that is plugged into a two wire system the whole refrigerator will read hot.
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