randynavarro

I focus my gig on providing information. Hopefully information that's useful, hepful, and relevant. If I came across a 1920's bungalow that was never remodeld, and impecabbly maintained I likely wouldn't tell the folks to replace all the old K & T. I still give 'em the info. though. Can't fight thermodynamics - things tend toward decay. Trouble is, I've yet to across one of those dandy bungalows. They've been made bigger, better and being Seattle, everyone has to have their espresso machines. Chances are that K & T has been butchered and over-worked. It's a fine line; providing relevant information and telling folks they have to be afraid of everything.

OK. A huge part of this biz is being consistent and equally proficient in all areas, (a never-ending task I'll admit). If one is going to spend that much time on the water heater, will he then apply the same standard of care to every other component he inspects? Shall we start performing NFPA Level II inspections on all the chimneys? Duct blast testing for duct leakage? If you're performing that service on the water heater, God bless you and may the wind be at your back. I would hope you're performing equal level inspections on everything else. And by the way, I never once suspected any personal attacks from WJ.

Great. So much for deferring to mfr's specs. . .

It's the diagram at the top. Look at the arrows specifying which side of the centerline to cut. Then look at which slope they're designating as the lesser watershed. Then read the instructions after number 1 and starting with "NOTE". Those instruction state the opposite.

I don't draw the line really. I say, "When the water heater was installed, earthquake straps weren't required by the city/state/county. Regardless, you should have some installed now so the tank can't move and shift as much in an earthquake."

I've seen that Certainteed spec and refer to it a lot, but I just noticed something. . . Am I dyslexic today, or is the diagram opposite what the verbal instructions state? Regarding which slope should be cut back 2" from the centerline?

There would have to be enough space between slab and the main pipe , though. Combos are much "taller" than a san-tee.

A conundrum: anything below 140 degrees promotes the Legionnella bacteria that can cause Legionnaires disease.

Good idea. Trouble is, our bed's right there. Anyway, I've had success. The damper metal was fairly thin, probably 1/8" or so. It cut like butter with a Sawzall. Yes, it was dirty but came out fairly quickly. Like Kurt alway sez, us home inspectors need to take things apart and put them back together more. Doing this has certainly helped further my understanding of how fireplaces are built - they're amzaingly simple (at least this style as I know there's dozens of configurations out there). And yes, I felt a consistent pang of guilt tearing apart a perfectly well-built and functional damper and upper part of the firebox. What if, just what if I won't go through with the renovation and need to put the fireplace back together? Like other have stated, once an insert always an insert. To convert the system back to the original damper/fireplace, it would take an experienced mason and lots of money.

Maybe that's a bit contradictory. Unless the electrician that's doing the going over adheres to the findings of the report, will it do any good?

Thanks Mike. I guess I was confused and thought ASTM has published something. I also thought there was a document or publication older than this. That's why I asked.

Where can one find the standard that talks about this?

What's this outlet do again? 1925 home. It's energized. And no, I didn't test it. I was working on some electrical stuff at home and left my multi-meter in the garage. Dooope! I have my voltage sniffer though, and it lit. Image Insert: 66.4 KB

Eric: No, I don't write up that I coulnd't view the masonry components -- it's in the contract. Something like, "anything I can't see I can't inspect" or something to that regard. And yes, I always insert boilerplate about Level II stuff on all fireplaces.

Oh, and for the record, (and the greenies in the audience) technically, the home won't be dozed. Heck, I've probably got a more paranoid sense of waste than the environmentalists. Suffice to say, the home will undergo serious renovation and unfortunately the fireplace is in the wrong place at the wrong time.

Thank you gentlemen. I think I will probably utilize a little bit of each suggestion thus far.

Firstly, this is a personal project I'm seeking some advice on. Secondly, we've moved into an old, un-insulated, 1960's wood-frame rambler that will likely see a bulldozer in 1-2 years. Thirdly, we're burning a fairly new central oil furnace and I've done some rough calculations on how much we'll be paying for our fuel costs this year -- it's out of control. So, I've inherited a wood stove and will be installing it in the fireplace but I've got a pretty significant obstacle. The damper opening is not large enough to allow the 6" round flex flue to pass unless the damper is removed, cut or otherwise modified. I've never done any fireplace work. Anyone have any ideas on removing or altering the damper? Sawzall? Oxy-acetylene torch? Sledgehammer? Remember, the house is likely dozer bait and I only need heat for one season, maybe two. When I have more time, I can post pics if it'll be helpful.

The cobbler's son has no shoes. Don't even come to my place.

I wouldn't let one babysit my kids.

Umm, Brandon? Is that wood piled against your house? In the northwest?

Care to elaborate?

Great arguments for being an independent. Certainly makes me think.

I get about 1 call every 6 months from the ASHI site. I wonder what I'm doing wrong. . .

I just call it the plywood covering the floor framing. Was it actually wet or just stained? Wet is one thing. Stained wouldn't bug me being so close to the ground. Maybe it got wet from a wild hose or something one time. I can't recall ever finding any damage on these covers.

Well, I don't really disagree with all that's been said so I don't have much of a rebuttal. Interesting subject, though. I guess I'm just too black and white sometimes. Or, as Walter's stated, just a bit mule-headed.