randynavarro

Can't honestly say that Branding has affected my business at all. I was in before Branding and of course, now. I get just about the same amount of calls (1-2 month / max)asking if I'm ASHI 'certified'. To me it's been pretty much a waste of extra dues. Notice I did NOT say it was a waste of the 'normal' dues.

Yep, back when I was doing one-man remodeling work, I had a client who's treadmill popped the GFCI EVERY time he ran it. I tested, replaced, tested again and couldn't find anything improperly wired. About to lose my mind when I have a talk with the mfg. of the GFCI receptacle who explained that most exercise equipment won't work on these receptacles. Solution was to install a hospital grade GFCI instead. That did the trick! Too bad they're not making hospital grade AFCI's. Guess they don't figure folks recovering from kidney failures and heart transplants won't be plugging bad lamps into the wall outlets in intensive care.

I know its been discussed ad nauseum in some other forum somewhere, but if you'll allow me to open the can of worms again. . . What is the benefit of the Suretest? Isn't using the tool a bit too 'technically exhaustive'? I tried one for a while and got 'negative' and crazy readings all over the place both on my home and a couple of 'sacrificial lamb' inspections. The tool seemed to present way more confusion than it did diagnosis and clarification. I remember a thread a while back discussing the complications and confusion using a CO Detector. Isn't this the same thing? I'd love to know how a Suretest would benefit my inspection service while helping my clients at the same time - of course the hidden agenda is looking for an excuse to buy another tool!![]

I'd really like to incorporate a lot more photos to produce a better overall package for the client, however I am not willing to spend the extra time it takes to do a complete and thorough job of it. I strictly focus on a proper and ever-improving written report. So, I'm pretty sure I'll be adding an option to my inspection services - if clients want a photo essay completed, they can choose to pay for it. I agree with Kurt (and most other reasonable business folk), my time is too valuable to just keep adding and adding goodies into an inspection and taking longer to do it. I haven't figured a price yet for the photo essay. Maybe somewhere between 50-75% of the cost of the inspection. I figured it will take at least half the time to prepare a photo essay properly. Most people probably won't go for it but hey, if they want it they can pay.

Totally agree 117%!!! Thats why I've been trying to find good photo software that minimized this procedure - see the other thread in 'Photos' Haven't found a good program yet, however the tips from Jim Katen utilizing MS Word have helped a bunch.

Just did a house yesterday that had this done. Whole attic sprayed white - I have no idea what the product was. All the ceiling drywall had been removed, clear visqueen installed and the ceiling re-rocked. New fiberglass batts laid in attic. Minor blotches of mold and mildew were re-appearing at random areas on top of the white coating. I think the "science" of this whole phenomenon is pretty complex. I'm not sure there's a single definitive remedy that will work for every home.

This is standard configuration for mobile homes. Production costs are what 'mobile' homes are all about. Making an opening on top (or on the bottom) of the unit is the easiest, fastest way to provide a return - no ductwork! The only challenge is that if the occupants close the door to that room, then the unit is being starved of return air. Sometimes there is a vent cut in that door to allow air flow, or sometimes the door is cut WAY high from the floor to allow air return underneath.

Hark building scientists. This may be a bit long, but I'll try and be succinct. We have been having an unusually nipply (or is it nippy?) cold spell here in the great Northwest. Lows have been dipping to the low 20's and highs during the day are only in the high 30's. Crystal clear skies and my hygrometer reads anywhere from 60-75% relative humidity (exterior). This leads to a situation I have been finding consistently in the attics this week - a coating of frost covers the underside of the sheathing - usually towards the north sides of the home (where the sun don't shine). Depending on the time of day, the roof sheathing is both frost covered and is dripping wet. Two homes had visible mold / mildew growth under the frost - one home had frost but no mold / mildew. I find the mold / mildew growth issue consistently on many homes. Sometimes its just a 'black' layer of mildew or ??. Sometimes its very evident that it is mold by the circular, splotchy growth patterns. I usually discuss this with the client as a lack of ventilation in combination with too much moisture but cant' provide a clear remedy or solution and defer to a building scientist. I think there's another thread somewhere that discusses theories about what the 'black' really is. But the frost is new. Is the frost simply a more visible indication of the fact that too much moisture is entering the attic with not enough ventilation? Any good theories on a solution or just keep deferring to the building scientists??

I read somewhere a long time ago that water damage from busted hoses is one of the leading claims in the home insurance biz. Came from USAA Insurance I think.

Kurt, do you mean by using Filemaker? My father in law built his construction defect litigation company (in So. California) on Filemaker. Everything, and I mean everything! Time sheets, photos, testimony, inspection records - you name it - it was all input to Filemaker AND it all tied together in very complicated or simple ways. Father-in-law has taken the last 8-9 years building the software to get it to perform like it does - 100's of hours per year. I guess the sky's the limit. Filemaker is awesome - I just have never put the hours in to learning it. I have version 5.0. Maybe I'll re-visit it.

What Mike says - they're upright, sideways and upside down here - whatever it takes to make it fit. It is much easier, though to properly support the hanging tank when it is sideways - think about it - easy to wrap the plumbers tape around the tank and secure to the wall. Can't get a good wrap around the tank when its upright (or upside down). I call "inadequate support" a lot on unsupported expansion tanks. Good thought though - maybe worth a little bit of research of the mfg's specs to make sure it can be mounted in any position - just cuz everybody's doing it all different ways doesn't make it right!

Kevin, its good to know you have some pretty clear guidelines in your area. That makes is easy for all involved. I also don't think the work was 'shoddy' but more careless. Maybe careless = shoddy. Look at the picture again - all the HVAC guy had to do was 45 right off the top of the furnace to the right, line up under the ceiling stack, add another 45, then run straight up to the fitting in the ceiling. Then add a wye to receive the water heater and its done!! This way also allows the water heater vent to tie in as high as possible to the ceiling which IS specified in Code Check. Simply looks 'rookie' to me.

Jim and Sue: I'm running Windows XP. Office 2003. Everytime I start pasting multiple photos, the photos jump around the page and don't hold their position. Jim, I choose 'tight' on the wrapping command - I don't have a 'no wrap' option - I wonder why. But photos still jump around the page. This also happened on my older machines running Windows 98. This happens on both my desktop and laptop - Dell and Gateway. So I'm frustrated as I can't get the pictures to hold position and spend way too much time trying to get everything looking good. Thus, trying to find something else. Mabye I'll dink around more with Word - thanks for both your considerations.

Anyone have some ideas for 'good' and simple photo software for creating photos essays of an inspection? I use the term 'good' and simple carefully. I know there's lots of great photo software you can pick up for reasonable cost, however I can't find something to just do simple layout: a) download from the camera b) re-size as needed for physical size AND digital size (for emailing purposes) c) paste onto a page - 8.5 x 11.5 letterhead - usually 4 pictures to a page d) insert text underneath photo for description e) draw arrow or circle to highlight the defect Full Photo essay could be 30- 50 photos and take up to 10-12 pages. I currently have Adobe Photo Deluxe (worthless for doing these 'essay' projects) - I've tried several other 'home' friendly software MS Word is a great tool that can insert photos, however is very tedious and formatting multiple photos on the page for some reason is very difficult I use Inspectit ReportPlus report software, which is basically MS Word, so same problem just mentioned A big smooch to the person who might have the magic program - did I just get too personal with the smooch thing - don't worry I'm happily married.

Totally agree . . .but I guess I'll 'fess up now. This entire 'inspection' was for a friend. I told her I would help her out as a favor. On top of that, she IS a realtor. No worries, we were friends first, then she became a realtor. No report, no paperwork, no fuss, right?!! So basically she is telling the builder what to fix without paperwork or a report. So as a friend, I'm obligated to hold her hand a bit cuz she doesn't have a realtor! Maybe the line between friend and business should be discussed in another thread![:-headach

Yeah, I used to think that until I read this: JLC Article on Venting Gas Appliances ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Mike, great article, but here's a quote right from him. Even he is saying that its pretty complicated. Complex Range of Options There's a wide range of choice in appliances and vents. But for every combination of equipment type and vent material, the basic goals and limits apply: The vent must be able to provide sufficient draft for the equipment; it must be warm and dry enough to avoid damaging corrosion; and it must be fire safe. The sizing tables and other venting rules aim to achieve that safety and durability, but in providing for the whole range of choices, the rules have become complicated. This is the only thing he says about elbows. However, it's important to realize that the tables don't account for every possibility. They don't include the effect of elbows in the system, for example: Each table assumes no more than two 90-degree bends, and vent capacity is reduced by 10% for each additional 90. Well, now i'm just copy/pasting the article - anyone can read it for themselves if they want. I guess I'm thinking that even if a guy had all the tables and cross-references that are mentioned, doing all the calculations and measurements is too technically exhaustive and outside the scope of a normal home inspection - isn't it? Which brings me back to my original concern - my gut says its wrong - its gotta be wrong but I can't prove it. You know as well as I do the HVAC "professional" hasn't performed any calcs. The client would have to pay lots o' dough to get an "expert" in just to calc this one vent issue - is it worth it?

Thanks Chris. I'll read when I'm done here. Regardless, my experience has been that gas venting can be really complicated and almost borders on rocket science. What's gotten me by for so long without gettin' in trouble, is that water heater and furnace configurations in garage are very common here. Usually everything vented the same. It takes something like this to make you scratch your head and wonder.

I agree Les. All's they had to do was go right off the top of the furnace with a 45 elbow, then 45 up to the ceiling. The water heater could then tie in close to the ceiling. Is that what you mean by $18?

Thanks Mike. I'll check it when I'm done posting (i'll have to get my abacus out of the attic)

Saw this in a brand new home today. I know in my gut this vent configuration is incorrect but I can't find anything in writing to back it up. My view is a) too many 90 deg. elbows b) connection from the water heater should be as high to the garage ceiling as possible. Any references or thoughts? Download Attachment: gasventsmall.jpg 30.64 KB

I'm gonna vote for a loose connection as well. I haven't had the time to troubleshoot since it fried yesterday. Too busy! Also, another word. I wired this part of the home myself six years ago, right BEFORE I started my inspection business. I transitioned from the remodeling business. I always humor myself and tell my clients how many things I learned being an inspector that I was doing incorrectly during my remodeling years. Nothing major, just little things like . . . oh, making sure that all terminals are completely tightened on receptacles like this one. Bottom line is I appreciate and communicate the importance of "professional and workmanlike" practices when work is being completed on a home. I think the Do-It-Yourself craze has gotten a little out of control in the last several years what with the big orange box and the HGTV cable channel.

So, my wife's dryin' her hair this morning and says she smells something and sees smoke coming out of our receptacle. I open it up and find this - see pictures. Crazy, says I. I can't figure out why this would have happened. Any ideas?? The bathroom is five years old - new wiring. GFCI receptacle never tripped. The breaker never tripped. The GFCI on the hair dryer cord never tripped. I understand GFCI's don't protect necessarily from overheating, but it seems something would have tripped. Download Attachment: GFCI 1.JPG 50.47 KB Download Attachment: GFCI 2.JPG 50.55 KB Download Attachment: GFCI 3.JPG 54.53 KB

"However, the double-tapped neutrals in your picture are wrong. The panel's UL listing doesn't recognize that use of the equipment and the 2002 NEC, section 408.21 says: Grounded Conductor Terminations. Each grounded conductor shall terminate within the panelboard in an individual terminal that is not also used for another conductor." The NEC rule seems pretty black and white but I can't figure for the life of me how, if all the conductors are tapped onto the same bar, how 'double tapping' each terminal makes any difference. Doesn't the returning current all travel thru the bar anyway?

1) "Heavy sealant / caulking has been applied around the skylight. This typically indicates prior leakage and / or inadequate installation of flashing. I could not verify the proper installation of step or counterflashing." (I'm assuming its not visible?) "Consult with the seller(s) to determine their knowledge of prior leakage. A qualified and reputable roofing professional should provide appropriate repairs if or as necessary. 2) "There is no step flashing where the roof material abuts the vertical face of the chimney / wall" (is it a wall? or chimney? or?) "Mortar or sealant (can't tell what it is from the photo) is not a proper or appropriate long term solution to prevent leakage. A qualified and reputable roofing professional should provide an appropriate remedy" 3) "The cedar roof is dirty and is due for a proper cleaning and treatment by a qualified roof cleaning professional. Regular cleaning and maintenance of the cedar is key to maximizing its intended life expectancy" 4) Can't see the skylight glazing very clearly. Looks like plastic. Is it cracked or defective? If so- I'd write it up!!

I creat a report on site using Inspectit Report Writer Plus. Started with Word and transitioned to this software about two years ago. Ninth grade typing class is one of best and only things I've retained from high school - type about 70-80 words per minute now! I print and deliver reports on site. Clients never complain that they are receiving their reports too quickly but I'm frequently asked when booking an inspection over the phone, "How long do we have to wait 'til we get the report?" I've been using the Canon BJC 85 printer since the beginning and never had problems, (six years) Been thru two laptops and am still on the same printer! Pretty amazing now that I think about it. To each his own (or her own). We all work differently.