randynavarro

Almost looks like flexible / corrugated drainage pipe used for underground drainage systems. I just posted something over on the 'Electrical' forum commenting on how easy it is to simply follow the manufacturer's instructions. Looks like the manual for the water heater is sitting right on top. It probably specifies exactly what is allowed as vent material.

Wow, I find probably 50% of the time. I think its the electrical systems that are abused the most by the do-it-yourselfers and Harry Homeowners. I think the FCC should ban the HG TV channel in the interest of national public safety. I mean, anyone watches a 30 minute epidose on whatever and they're ready to handle any remodel project.

I simply say it is incorrect and doesn't comply with the mfg's specs. Usually, the specs are printed right on the label on the panel cover. I used to not say anything, but as I'm getting older and wiser . . .well at least older, it's kind of a no-brainer to report whatever the mfgs. themselves print in black and white. Electrical panels, water heaters, furnaces etc. Its amazing the amount of info. one can obtain by just reading the directions!

Okay, Jim and / or Brian - how do you determine the capacity of a meter base?

I've seen quite a few of those oil-burning incense fragrance thingies that need to be plugged into the receptacle to heat the oil. I'm not talking the standard grocery store models. These are actually little mini-frying pans so to speak. They work really well. I would think these things generate quite a bit of "off-gas" by-product.

Not sure if this is the right place. Is it just my computer or has this board been loading and moving really slow the last 2-3 days?

Well I guess I must clarify for sake of my reputation. . . This was an REO property (Real Estate Owned) that is in foreclosure. The place was thrashed - you know, all the cabinets ripped out of the kitchen, flora and fauna growing out of the one bathroom etc. etc.. I perform a handful of these walk thru-type inspections for an investment company every year. They will be gutting the place and re-furbishing and flipping. They just call me in to give 'em a rough verbal report of the more 'major' components they may have overlooked. No written reports, no paperwork, just giving 'em my two cents (for a small fee []). Therefore, I just do basic visual stuff. I do suit up and perform a good crawl space inspection however. So there. Thus the reason for only the quick peek in the attic.

I certainly didn't call this out as a defect. I thought it was a fun discovery and anyway, who am I to say its bad and / or needs further evalution when its been working for 60 + years. Just hadn't come across anything like it. Mike, your idea of a collapsible configuration might work, but I certainly couldn't see how. There was too much nailing and 'permanent' type members to be collapsible. It was bolted to a poured concrete foundation in the traditional manner. Also, those photos are pretty much the widest I have. I just stood in the scuttle hatch with my head poking through and my camera was on the widest angle(I think its the equivalent of 35mm or so). Anyway, just thought they were cool. A lot of work went into for not much benefit. I could easily see an old-time Boeing engineer that just had too much time on his hands and engineered his own roof system.

Wow, they're so close yet so far. All they needed was a moisture barrier between concrete and wood and it would've been pretty decent. Here, they usually completely install all siding and trim and then pour right against those components. I guess its the same defect; wood-concrete contact, whether its OSB or siding. At least in your photos, there seemed to be a little foresight and planning whereas the concrete guys game in before the siding. Here, there doesn't seem to be any planning. The siders just finish it all up and then concrete porches are poured. Its just a matter of efficiency which translates to cheaper.

Saw these an old 1940's attic. They were in great condition. Anybody seen 'em before? Download Attachment: AtticTrusses1.JPG 58.63 KB Download Attachment: AtticTrusses2.JPG 56.46 KB Download Attachment: AtticTrusses3.JPG 56.21 KB Download Attachment: AtticTrusses4.JPG 58.88 KB

The unit may be dead, but I guess more importantly, what does it matter what the homeowner says? Is he (or she) a qualified, reputable and licensed HVAC professional? (Just asking the question this way to make a point . . .hopefully)

Yup, a cold joint.

I'm surprised time and time again how much I see when I get up close and walk 'em - things that I just can't see from the ground.

Yep, just checked the Pella site. Their instruction do not specify metal head flashing either. This trendy new thing called the internet is quite a resource.

The few different brands of windows I've ever installed do not specify metal head flashing. They simply specify ice-shield and/or wrapping the sills and jambs much like Pella describedyou've described from Pella. Here is the Standard Practice for Installation of Windows With a Mounting Flange. http://www.milgard.com/_doc/products/aama-2400-02.pdf Those instructions are posted on the Milgard website - it is how they specify their windows to be installed. Don't know about other parts of the country but Milgard is probably one of the most popular and higher quality window mfg. on the west coast. They do not specify metal head flashing. They use the term 'head flashing' to describe the ice-shield or building paper wrap under the siding. See Page 2 - Note 1 - they say it is not the responsibility of the window mfg. to design or recommend an appropriate flashing system.

OK. Lets forget the code. Lets just say that a T&P discharged inside a basement only and within 12" of the floor is acceptable and legal (at a location above grade, then it should definitely vent to the exterior, in my ever-to-be-so-humble opinion) I think I will decide to still continue writing this as needing correction as water discharging inside the home is bad and can lead to all sorts of nasty stuff. As someone has said before, "homes built to code are the worst buildings that are still legal". I have a responsibility to the client to inform and educate them re: the consequences of hot and / or steaming water spewing all over the basement. Your discourse has been helpful and is much appreciated. Even though it hasn't made the issue crystal clear, it has helped me in making a personal and business decision on how to address what appears to be a sticky issue. Will continue to vent to the exterior. . .to infinity and beyond,

Not worried about being sued over a T&P - just trying to be consistent in my findings. As mentioned before, I think its very difficult to walk the line between common sense and what the rules are as clearly printed in code books (I know, sometimes things aren't so clear - that another discussion). I have never had legal issues, but I do know from family experience how they can dig and dig and nail you on any 'kinks in your armor'. Just trying to fortify my armor.

Amen Jim. Common sense is my middle name. Its difficult to walk that fine line between the "rule" (the code) and common sense. My fear is this: "No, your honor, I know its the law, but I didn't write it on the report because I thought that I knew better!"

Totally agree. Trouble comes in trying to be as consistent as possible. If I'm going to call one thing or another for being 'wrong', I'm obligated to call a T & P discharging inside wrong also. But the reality is there really isn't a feasible, practical way to remedy this.

What do y'all write when a TPR valve from a water heater terminates inside the home but within 12" of a basement floor? There is no way to get gravity fall to the exterior and there is not a floor drain near the water heater.

What the heck is WideTrac? For sure, PSI was too high on the roofer's gun(s). Just saw a brand new home last week just like this. No worries, you have that rep call me and I'll send my people to take care of him![]

Hey Mike: Help me out. What exactly is a dimensional portal?

Slick-talking real estate agent trying to convince your client that each defect or finding you communicate is really "no big deal" and "its just a matter of a trip to Home Depot; it'll be fixed in no time" Over-anxious client who wants to follow you absolutely everywhere, and I mean everywhere during the inspection and wants to know how every single nail, screw, fixture, handle, guage, and trinkett in the home functions, where it was manufactured, and its exact condition. Seller of the home is hard-headed and absolutely won't vacate the premises for the inspection. They also shadow you and try and refute everything you're trying to communicate with the buyer. oh . . . did you mean. . . emotional or physical safety?

No kidding! Kinda frustrating. I verbalize to a client recently that I saw one 'mouse' trap in the crawl space and a small amount of feces. Really not a big deal. When his wife calls him on the cell, he says "Well the inspector says our place is infested with rats". I think that different personalities will respond different ways. The old cup half empty or half full thing.

I was referring to the traditional, masonry, wood-burning fireplaces. No, I agree, wood burning stoves, inserts, zero-clearance gas fireplaces, pellet stoves etc. are all heavily used around here, in my opinion because they're much easier to operate and they actually can provide heat. Stocking lots 'o firewood, starting a fire properly and keeping it going in a traditional fireplace is a lot of work when most of the heat goes right up the chimney. Been in plenty of 20+ year homes where the masonry fireplace does not have one ounce of soot or evidence of a fire, especially the higher end homes. Fireplaces are just a decoration.