blindrid

Sounds like an inspector that would a comment like that would assist in the mass hysteria regarding vermiculite. Anytime ones makes a statement like that to a typical, uneducated owner they would certainly make a big deal out of it for no reason. If someone tells someone to get it removed would surely start another "black" mold argument with the seller, buyer and the asbestos abatement contractor. Oh Yeah? Guess I screwed up, 'cuz I haven't scared anyone off a home yet by tellling 'em not to disturb this stuff. Let's see, in two more months I'll have been doing this 16 yeras. How the hell would you know what kind of inspector I am? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike Good morning: I have trained hundreds of contractors / energy analysts / auditors throughout the country and my point has always been to make sure any comments in any reports cannot be interpreted in such a manner not to overstate health hazards and base that information on legitimate testing. When one makes a comment of "assuming that it contains asbestos" is irresponsible and when it may CYA it is not accurate and could only cause a hysteria on part of an uneducated potential homeowner. I guess I'm old school enough to remember the many "cry wolf" reports of various building materials and consider statements that "may contain" or "possibly" does not provide anyone with valid, worthwhile information just shows a possible lack of knowledge. Anyway, have a great day all.

Where is the source of return air? Are you drawing something into your return air duct work?

Sounds like an inspector that would a comment like that would assist in the mass hysteria regarding vermiculite. Anytime ones makes a statement like that to a typical, uneducated owner they would certainly make a big deal out of it for no reason. If someone tells someone to get it removed would surely start another "black" mold argument with the seller, buyer and the asbestos abatement contractor.

100% correct, the one that I saw above that was used for the AC isn't worth the paper it would be printed on. Use real Manual J at a minimum where you input wall sections, glass orientation - there is no short cut like the one used. As to anyone guessing in here, without knowing the design parameters, any latent heat loads and other variables would be a worthless guess.

I'll bite as others won't here: I would guess that the problem is a loose connection - take wire nut off, re-strip and nut, connect ground. I would think the lack of ground did not cause any problems.

And what difference would that make? There is little line loss in a residential structure. IMHO, the wiring would be safe and no different though not the way I would do it. Why would a latex machine and dryer be flammable?

[:-yawn] and what did the forewarning accomplish? It's not needed.

So you pay for a company to provide a test and they do not explain? I would question that initially. Not very useful data . . . . . .

I'm speculating you haven't been around much - I've been around plenty of them - normally in a master bedroom / bath combination. Whew!

A lot of homes have them in the CS. The majority I've seen are tied to a humidistat or a timer as some codes call for a run time, some call for humidistat control. If the fan is installed correctly is should have little noise - the last one I installed we just hung from the joists and isolated it the best we could - it has little noise above the floor. It all depends where you are and seems to work fine. I don't how one could blame a fan for buckled floors though......

I usually drive lags halfway with a hammer first. Works great and it's quick. Marc As well as deck screws........

If the glass is from the '40s it's not safety glass. I'd replace it. Certainly you jest?

It makes the back of the siding wet. Jim: that's the first thing that popped into my mind as well.

Agree 100%.

Having experience in the Loveland area, there are a boatload of homes built like that. I don't understand why it would not be your "choice" though. Issues with design? What would those be?

A few since the DOE was in a large report that I could not find on their site: http://eec.ucdavis.edu/ACEEE/1994-96/1994/VOL05/233.PDF http://www.fsec.ucf.edu/en/publications ... 496-05.pdf (page 4)

So where are all your former roofs now? [] I agree, that roofer was in a rush and did it the quick and easy way. There could be hidden problems, like missing underlay, missing nails, nails too short, poor flashing, etc. All we can do now is warn the client of possible future problems. My attempt is not to be a smart*** but hopefully a question taken correctly. Why would one "warn" the client of "could be" future hidden problems? Couldn't you make that claim on every roof? Or are you specifically picking this one since the inspector does not like the way the roof was installed even though as acceptable method (to some anyway)?

I used to have a copy of a DOE report indicating that the load added by the fans is greater than the reduction in AC load. I always equated that to indicate the minimal effects of them. IMHO, static roof vents have always been the way to go.

If an inspector can't tell the difference between insulation and, "a decaying wood" then he best find another job. I was thinking the same thing. Sounds like someone that likes to cry wolf and get people all excited due to lack of knowledge. Did I come in with guns ablazin as bad as this one? Marc Apologies and Mea Culpa . . . . .

If an inspector can't tell the difference between insulation and, "a decaying wood" then he best find another job. I was thinking the same thing. Sounds like someone that likes to cry wolf and get people all excited due to lack of knowledge.

There is no national code requirement prohibiting LP appliance installations below grade. The drain thingy in the diagram is nonsense. LP could only pool "like water" in a completely sealed chamber that lacked any air movement (it isn't gasoline vapor). A LP leak is the same as a NG leak, above grade or below grade. With the correct amount of oxygen present it can ignite. LP might not pool like water but, then again, it might. It's 1-1/2 times more dense than air so it can stratify pretty easily. While I think it's a poor idea to put LP appliances in basements, I must admit that my house, which I built, has a propane furnace in the basement. It also has a propane detector at floor level, which operates a solenoid at the gas entrance. If I found a propane appliance in a basement, I'd recommend installing a similar system. I disagree with recommending them. Clients depend on us to provide solid information, not personal recommendations. People that don't know sometimes get overly concerned over nothing......

I was writing this issue up in new construction for quite a while, but finally just started to ignore it. Agree as almost 99% of the homes also do not have balanced systems so it is a moot point. I think those that are writing it up are wasting paper and the client's time.