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homnspector, I believe this is the spelling and capitalizing method that you used.

Dan, I can not believe that water can be sucked from the drain and beable to get into the dish washer water supply ( There is a air gap of about 4" between the two and the dishwasher line is feed from the kitchen sink and you said that the kitchen sink line was clear). The piping configuration between the dish washer/ kitchen sink and the bathroom can only be one of three chooses. 1. Dish washer/ kitchen sink is downstream of bathroom. 2. Bathroom is down stream of dishwasher/ kitchen sink. 3. There is a T that branches off to the dishwasher/ kitchen sink and the bathroom. Choice # 1 If the dish washer/ kitchen sink is downstream of bathroom, the bathroom would not have gray water, which we know it is not the case, out goes #1. Choice #2 If the bathroom is downstream of the dish washer/ kitchen sink it would not have gray water because you turned on the dish washer and the kitchen sink prior to the bathroom and the gray water would have come out the dish washer and the kitchen sink before coming out the bathroom, which we know again that is not the case, out goes #2. Tha only leaves choice #3 Branch lines off of a T. To get dirty water in both the dish washer (but you did not have dirty water when you turned on the kitchen sink, most water lines to the dish washer are connected to the kitchen sink line) and the bathroom the gray water had to come prior to the branch T, the water heater has to be the problem because of you runing water from the kitchen sink first and it was clear.

Here is what you said; A few minutes later I noticed that a sewage smell (like a kitchen drain) smell was being emitted from the vicinity of the dishwasher. Opened the door and voila!...stinky, gray water! My thoughts" how in the hell did gary water get in the dishwasher hot line ( Thinking .....)" You said; Closed the door back up and continued the cycle; went to the bathroom hot water taps and out comes stinky gray/black water! My thoughts" how in the hell did gary water get in the bathroom hot line (More thinking ....)" You said; "So I just ran all the hot water taps until they smelled okay My thoughts, "this did happen on the cold line other wise he would have said so" More Thoughts, "Flush out the hot water lines and it clear up. The only thing that controls the Hot Water line is the water heater" Question? Is there a water softner or expansion tank connected to the water heater? Did you go back the next day and check if the water got dirty again after your flush job? I believe that the waterline became dirty because of the two to three months of no water being used. This could be caused by the water getting stagnet in a water softner, expansion tank or the hot water heater. If you have gone back and check to see if the water has cleared up, then you know that it was caused by the stagnet water or ask the plumber what he found, His answer would most likely be clear water and nothing wrong.

Again Re-read Mike's post, commit it to memory. Kurt in Chicago Workin' the Inner City

Brian Looks like the jumps could extend below the missing meter. The homeowner was just trying to get free electric. That is maybe why it was in foreclosure.

James Most concrete that is pumped has water added after it has left the truck chute by the pump operator. It makes the concrete easier to pump. The concrete is weaker in design strength by the extra water. The pump operator has change the concrete mix design. The concrete is still curing, take Kurt advice and give it a couple more weeks.

All PC PDA's EXCEPT THE PALM runs Windows CE verisions (1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0). The new PDA Windows 2003 are CE 4.0, The Windows 2000 PDA's (Older models) are Windows CE 2.0 to CE 3.0, Any PC with the Windows Operating System (Laptops, Tablet, Desk) runs in Windows CE standards. Check your software for what verision of CE is required (1.0, 2.0, 3.0, 4.0). I know that any new machine will run your software, for they meet the CE 4.0 standard. The link above to the HP is good. I used a HP 200LX with a memory card that ran a Dos application for by Inspections for years (Until Windows came along). As you can see it runs applications Windows CE 3.0 and below. These units are about 8 years old, I believe. The bigest problem is getting a application installed on this older operating system machine.

Norm Thank you for the chart. It sure in hell beats going through old code books to find a answer and for those HI's that say what good is it because GFCIs and the new GFCIs locations were not required when the Home was built, all I can say to them is, these GFCIs location are now required in 2005.

That could be a Sheetrock Ceiling Safety Device Model 6345 to stop the HVAC repairman or homeowner from steping or backing onto the sheetrock ceiling (See the floor boards), when he is doing repairs. I have also seen these units used as a Attic Rodent Notifier, but is usual installed lower. (This must be a picture of a home from South America for they do have rodents that big). I would still write up this application for non-complaince with NEC Code, concerning improper wire fasting. See all the extra wire, this job must have been bid by the foot of wire installed.

This discussion on Bonding is the same type of question that I review when sitting on our Nye County Building & Safety Appeals Board. Listening to our Code Inspectors and the Electrical Contractor discuss the NEC Code is adventure in it self. The most asked questions on any Inspection Forum are on the Electrical Code. Go to any Electrical Forum and you will find out that the Electrical Inspectors and Electricians have just as much problem with the NEC Code as Home Inspectors. I believe asking that the Building Official for his interpretation is the best way to go on issues relating to NEC Code.

Terence I like that statement " Please schedule ......".

There are four classifications of a manufactured home. Single Wide Trailer, Double Wide Trailer, Manufactured Home, and a Modular Home. The Single Wide and Double Wide Trailer are built very cheap with 2X2 Interior Walls and Paneling, running gear and most of the time the earth anchor setup is for wind only, which qualifies them as Personal Property. The Manufacture Home is built to the same or better standards then a sticks built home (2X6 Exterior Walls, 2X4 Interior Walls, and R50 in ceilings) and are set on a permanent foundation, running gear is removed at the site and hauled back to the factory. They will become Real Property just like a stick built home. The Modular Home is hauled to a site and set with a crane, built to the same standards as a stick built home, can have two or more stories, will be tax as Real Property . I agree that the junk homes are the Single and Double wide trailers but they have there place in the housing market with there lower cost.

Thanks Jim, I figured if someone had the right info, you would.

This is in a commercial building. This future bar was wired completely with 3/8 Flexible Metallic Tubing. I thought that 3/8 Flexible Metallic Tubing could not exceed 6' in there use. The 3/8 AC is acting as the ground for this system because there is no ground wire in the AC. This system has been passed by our Code Inspector and was installed by a Electrical Contractor. Is this a proper method of wiring for a commercial building or any other type of structure?

Donald Yes, I have ran into him at a local casino restaurant. The community is now about 35,000 and it is expected to double in 7 years. There are four large developments on going which are expected to add 8300 new homes, so I don't think that you would be the only vehicle on the road now.

Brian, Pahrump (55 Miles NW)is just like Las Vegas as far as heat (108F at 5:30 PM Outside Temp.) for those attic's conditions. We try to do the stick built homes in the morning between 7:00AM and 9:00AM because of the heat in these attics. We have about 30% of the homes listed as manufactured housing so doing the exterior last is best for us after crawling around in the crawl space.

I see that there are a lot of questions from new HI that are just starting out in this business. No matter what tools that you might buy for your business you still need a plan on how you are going to do your inspection. Your inspection plan will save time ($) and thoroughness in your visual inspection. This is the method that we use; 1. Check the Assessor Office for data on the property to be inspected (Year, size, Etc.... 2. We inspect the Interior first before doing the Exterior (Less tracking) 3. We start the dishwasher first (45 Minute cycle) 4. Crank up the Air if summer or the heat if winter 5. Start at thermostat and Inspect in one direction (I walk right because of being right-handed) 6. Complete each room component (Walls, windows, vents, electrical and Etc ...). 7. Attic is the last item to inspect because of dust or insulation that you can bring back into the interior. 8. Exterior & Site components again starting in one direction. This is just our method, I would like to here about other methods because if it can save us time which equals $$$, we welcome new ideas?

Dobie, Yes, The dobie is used to provide the proper clearance between the edge of the form (This case the soil is the form) and reinforcement, so that the placed concrete will cover the reinforcement completely. Most of the time there is not enough dobie placed, so that the belly of the rebar will not have the design clearance. Rule of Thumb for clearance is double the size of concrete aggregate add ½â€

Cut Stud It looks to be like the cut out stud is not a bearing stud (See the stud to the left and also the right of it). The spacing between the three studs looks about 8" each. That stud could be a extra for nailing a wall at that point or support for the piping.

Brian I agree with you on how frustrating it is when a problem has been identified and the support that you expect from so called experts drives a nail into your assessment of that problem. The AHJ person might agree with your position but is powerless to enforce that position because he can only enforce code requirements that his locality had adopted in the year that the construction of the permit was issued. As for the document that Jim provided, it agrees with your position but it is most likely not a code requirement for your area “YETâ€

Here is my two cents worth 1. I don’t believe that this crack is caused by freezing because the basement is heated. 2. I don’t believe that there is a settlement problem because of the walls and footing reinforcement and the higher location of the crack on the North Wall. 3. I believe that the wall was backfilled prior to the concrete reaching 80% of the design strength, which would cause the Inside wall to bow and push against the side wall upwards. This action will develop cracks. When you inspect a concrete structure you to do let the backfilling operation start until the concrete reach 80% of design strength ( Design strength is based on 28 Days Cure time) Concrete will normal reach 66% of Design strength in 7 Days. I have seen this condition before in concrete structures. Do I CYA, yes, remember we are not experts. Where are you Structural Engineer or license contractor?

Some times a Developer will designate construction water connections points, so that construction water can be metered and tracked. These points can be a fire hydrant with a Jones Value or a house with a hose bibb that has not been released to the new owner (One of the final punch list items to the home would be attaching the Antisiphon device to the hose bibb). The mixing truck could have required another round of pesticide solvents to be mixed, the driver pulls up the hose bibb or Jones Value, connects the hose and let's it hang in the tank while filling, shuts the value off when the tank is overflowing. The location of this Home might be the first service downstream of the fire hydrant that had a Jones Value connected to it and could have become contaminated when they flushed out the service line You know the rest of the story. Like you say supply lines are not run through the slab where the the Premix is placed and also reread Chris's remark.

Sleeves are normal cut flush to the concrete wall and sealed on the exterior and interior to stop water and insects, but I can see from your picture that they look like they are extending abut a foot pass the concrete wall, so I would expect to see about the same length outside. A labor to dig the three to four foot hole and seal the sleeve

Going with above answers (No Leaks & Check Water Supply) to this question, when the pesticide solvents was being applied, did it required to be mix with water. The mixing of the solvent could have been done Outside on a hose bibb that did not have a Antisiphon device connected to it, letting the solvent backflow into the water system or could have been mixed where there was not a Air Gap between the fluid level of the bucket and the faucet also causing a backflow situation.

Les, Scott CCI stands for Certified Construction Inspector and CCPM stands for Certified Construction Project Manager, which is issued by the Association of Construction Inspectors after there review and check of your qualifications. CRI stands for Certified Residential Inspector which is issued by the State of Nevada after you have passed there test and license requirements for Real Estate Structual Inspection. Viking Construction Services Inc. dba VCSI as register in the State of Nevada I agree with you Scott (MS, ASHI) on all the alphabet soup, but that is the way that Government Agencies or large Corporations like to see it, when they are considering you or your company for a consulting position. I do not list all of the certifications from the ICBO (Sorry ICC) or the ACI (American Concrete Institute) that I have.