CNewhouse

Right, I agree. My question is, why would someone take the time to drill through an 8" concrete wall rather than simply routing the piping around the foundation to daylight? Order of operations got wacky and backfilling had already happened?

Any ideas? The other side of this foundation wall is below the garage slab. Certainly looks to me like the footing drain at the right side of the home (bottom of that slope) is draining into the crawlspace. A 4" core was drilled through the poured concrete foundation wall to allow that corrugated pipe through. But why? Seems like a lot of work to create a problem.

I'd suggest adding some information about your qualifications. What makes you a good choice when a buyer is looking for an inspector? What services do you offer, if any, aside from general inspections? And how about a sample report? Show people what they're paying for.

Once you have satisfied customers, I would direct them to Google reviews rather than Yelp. Yelp might decide your reviews are fraudulent if you decide agains paying them to promote your business listing. Yelp is terrible.

Is it safe to assume that Zonolite brand insulation does contain asbestos? Is it possible that an attic can be insulated with Zonolite and not be contaminated with asbestos? I mention the concern and direct clients to the Zonolite Attic Insulation Trust when I see the bags. But I'm curious for my own knowledge base.

I was wondering if it was original to the home, but had never seen a 57 year old water heater. Didn't realize it was possible. Pretty cool.

Saw this beauty in a 1964 ranch today. Based on what I've been able to find online, it seems White Products Corp was a precursor to Bradford White? Any ideas as to the age of this bad boy? Still working, delivering 130 degree water to fixtures, though the tank is corroded and dripping significantly from the TPRV discharge piping.

I see. How about the color?

Any ideas as to how this could happen? The vent was quite long and had a sag in it, but I wouldn't think condensation would create so much volume or be so yellow. My best guess is that a disgruntled handyman... peed... in the vent? Large amount of liquid. I'd say more than a cup. Very very yellow. I considered lowering my respirator for a sniff but decided against it.

Only Square D and Cutler-Hammer make breakers that are listed to accept 2 conductors. If I see a breaker that is double tapped and should not be, I point it out and suggest the buyer have the issue corrected. It's very simple to to install a wire nut and pigtail and eliminate the double tap. Is it a fire hazard? I can't say. But I can say that it's wrong and there's potential for loose connections and overheating. My opinion is it should be pointed out every time. Immediate concern or not, it's wrong (usually).

If you're still concerned after reading the above, it is possible to have a sample of the texture tested for asbestos content. In my area, analysis can be done for around $50 and results only take a few days. Perhaps it'll give you the peace of mind you need.

That is does. Glad I asked. Thanks Bill.

My gut says this isn't right. There's no transition piece between the copper and PEX, and it doesn't look like the tapered copper end is barbed like a proper male crimp fitting would be. Am I wrong? I can't recall ever seeing copper taper into PEX like this.

Can stainless steel piping be sweated to copper fittings without galvanic corrosion?

It was not. I was actually surprised to hear that they terminated, but I can understand wanting a home to be in great shape for the price they were asking. Our area has low inventory, extreme competition and inflated home prices to match.

I told the agent that I am paid, in part, to test the showers in the home and that when I did the handle of the shower valve came off in my hand. I told her I take no responsibility for this defect and that it was certainly there before the inspection. I did not use excessive force to turn the shower on. I respectfully declined to contact my insurance or contribute to any repair costs. She insulted me and told me that my "lack of professionalism has been duly noted". Perhaps she has had others lay down when commanded to?

Great, I appreciate it Jim.

I just received an email from a listing agent regarding a home I inspected several weeks ago. During the inspection, the handle on the master shower valve felt oddly loose, had little resistance when turned, and fell off in my hand. The listing agent is claiming that there was no issue prior to the inspection, and that I broke the valve by "over turning it". This is absurd. It was clearly installed wrong or defective when I arrived. A plumber came out, said the shower valve must be replaced, and gave a quote of nearly $2,000. They want my insurer to pay this. The buyer terminated and I can't help but feel like this is an attempt to punish me. My question is, how do I proceed? This is my first time in this situation and I'm not sure what the appropriate response is. Do I tell the agent respectfully that I did not cause the damage and will not be filing a claim? Do I contact my insurance carrier and let them resolve this?

There were many issues with this roof, the lining of the this valley being one of them. My understanding was that an open valley needs to be lined with flashing or a membrane, and that asphalt shingles are never acceptable, regardless of slope. I was curious if there were exceptions to this. Interestingly, this roof had several different valleys, all installed in different flavors of incorrect. IMG_3807.HEIC

Are there any manufacturers that allow shingles to be used within an open valley? I'm not seeing any and my gut says no-go, but figured I'd make sure. Is the concern granular loss due to concentrated water flow and subsequent leaks?

I'm curious how others go about inspecting and describing defects when it comes to stucco on old homes. In my area, hardcoat stucco is generally only found on older structures. Obviously these homes won't have casing bead and sealant at windows and doors, control joints or weep screed as these are modern features. These homes are also likely to lack kick out flashing and proper clearances to grade and pavement. It wouldn't make sense to hold a home built in 1929 to modern standards. So what should be said of stucco on these homes? Moisture intrusion is likely due to the stucco application techniques that were common at the time of construction? Is it unreasonable to recommend consulting a competent contractor to discuss upgrading the installation to include casing bead, control joints and weep screed?

Super. Thanks, Bill.

Bill, any chance you have an installation manual for this? I ran across this product today and can't find installation requirements online (support type and spacing, sleeve requirements, etc).

"Do you notice an earthy, damp or musty smell in the basement? What about condensation on your walls and windows? All of these are typical signs of a mold problem. As a property owner, you need to know that black mold spreads easily and presents a danger to your health. Ignoring it is not a safe or effective solution. Any suspicious area should be looked at by a trained and experienced mold inspector. He will be able to take a mold test on site to confirm the presence of mold." I'd say this is where you're going to ruffle some feathers. Your company's website is linking condensation on windows to black mold and suggesting that testing needs to be done to verify that mold is in fact... mold. I think many here will take issue with using fear tactics to get homeowners to open their wallets.

Yes. That was another one of my concerns. The anchor bolts only secure the lowest PT sill plate to the foundation. Even with shear panels on the exterior wall, I would think that the strength of the connection between the foundation and framing has been compromised.