Konrad

Darn. I saw this topic and thought Mike was going to tell us about his first home inspection. What he found, what he possibly missed, what the client was like, etc. Come on, uncle Mike: Tell us the story... [:-jump2]

I was told by someone smarter than myself that the tpr line should never have threads on it, for this very reason.

Chris has establihsed the base line. Your turn, Goodman. [b)]

Thanks for all the replies you guys. (And private messages too). There's a local print shop that is setting up to do a production run of 1,000 for me, for $450.00. While it's not the best price, they are right down the block from where I work, and that means something to me. I imagine 1,000 will be more than enough, considering I work full time for the A/E firm.

Why is it that copper roof sheathing will develop a patina and eventually turn black and then green, but not copper piping inside buildings? At first I thought maybe it's because of UV, but the copper roofs I see installed all discolor uniformly regardless of their orientation to north/south. So what's the difference between inside and outside? Copper is copper, right?

Chris, 10,000 ? Wow, that seems like a lot to me. Just to get a feel for what I should be doing (or expecting), I'm planning on just doing 1,000 because: 1. I have a full time job, and HI's are a side business. 2. My town is about 225,000 people, and I guess I'm not sure what the demand truly is around here. In your opinion, is 1,000 way too few? I've only been in contact with two realtors, but one of the asked for 500. Hopefully he won't just toss them in the can. [:-bigeyes2]

I have a decent website established, but exposure is limited, at best. I have a few realtors who have agreed to spread my flyers around. So I took it upon myself to make up a pretty decent looking flyer on MS Word. It took a lot of time, but I'm pleased with it. Trouble is, it is expensive to print color! For those of you that have color flyers, how much are you paying per sheet? My A/E employer's color printer/copier is an option, but even they want $1.00 per flyer. Is this about the best deal I'll find? It's color and double sided, and that's what the shops tell me drives the price so high. [] Any other suggestions, let me know. I like my flyer, it's better than the other guys around here. But now I know why. It's expensive.

Hah! [:-bigmouth] You know how many of us went to the Red/White game? You won't believe it if I tell you. But I'll tell you: 61,417 people attended a scrimmage, for crying out loud! Hell, the band was there, the vendors were there, Husker Vision was going, the P/A was booming... the only thing missing was der weiner schlinger. (You gotta be a UNL engineering grad to understand "der weiner schlinger") [:-bouncy] As a whole, consdidering that the entire Husker Nation has been pulled backwards through the keyhole for the last 6 months, we need therapy. [:-football] [:-football] [:-football] www.coachcallahan.com I'd put my mug up there, but honestly I haven't really figured out how to do it. [:-dunce] How do I do it? [:-irked]

I was thinking that the whole sasquatch hoax was really just Brian.

That's the gutter apron and inside of the gutter in the foreground. There is felt paper, but it's more dramatic to say "I can see the roof sheathing!". (I didn't express it this way, just here on the bulletin board to see everyone get antz in their pantz. [:-basketball] ) Felt paper will break down quite nicely with UV exposure, first turning grey, then disintegrating in a year or three.

For cripe's sake, they stacked the shingle starter course seams directly underneath the top shingle seam. You can see the roof decking in between them. [:-banghead] Download Attachment: DCP_0094.JPG 71.82 KB

I just read this the other day in my Code Check tablet. Its a variation on the 2/10 rule, basically, 2/8: "If closer than 8 feet toa wall, vent must extend 2 feet above roof." That framed chimney isn't exactly a wall. I might try explaining that wind oscillations on the downwind side of the framed chimney would possibly cause backdrafting of the flue, on occasion. But more importantly, you appear to have the manufacturer's identity. They are the best advocate you can probably have. What do they say?

Heck yeah, you can use that photo. I don't know anything about the place, other than it's on the same street as a hospital addition we're starting there.

I spotted this while driving through Jefferson, Iowa yesterday. Some things just warrant a photograph. Download Attachment: DCP_0090.JPG 72.5 KB

Ok, I'll bite: What is the T.O.A.S.T. acronym? [:-basketball]

Norm, I'm damned near crying here...

Sort of related... I have a friend who's service pipe from the town water main is galvanized. It enters the house and almost immediately turns to copper. He has always complained about low water pressure, and when I looked in his basement, I suggested the galvanized piping may be restricting flow, not low water pressure. I threaded a pressure gage on the house piping, and sure enough, 50 psi. But 50 psi going through a pinhole is still not going to have much flow. [:-ashamed]

As an aside note to the ensuing drama... I read or heard somewhere that another motive for strapping the water heaters in place was to help preserve a potential source of water if an earthquake did strike. If the municipal water is out because of the quake, your home has a 40 gallon tank of it that you can live on for a while if you're in dire straights.

Can't see the photo either. I've thought about doing something like this myself at the furnace exhaust flue. I'd rivet passive radiant fins to the flue and a small fan to blow the air. I asked my engineers about this, and they said the fan would consume more energy than I'd be saving. Oh well. I could always still do the fins with no fan.

Never heard of the term "forced sleeve air" before. But if they are what Kurt is saying, in the commercial side they're simply referred to as P-Tac units. I don't know why. But sounds like a P-Tac to me.

Ok, here's the history that goes along with this photo: This is rough-in for a lavatory. The lav is in a medication storage closet, which very rarely gets used. Thus, the lav doesn't see much use. The plumber never finished hooking up the sanitary! The Owner was complaining about sewer gas in the building. Because there is a direct opening to the vent above, the sewer gas was discharging straight into the wall cavity. (just like the water the few times it was used) This is my candidate for "Blunder of the year" award. Download Attachment: Sanitary.jpg 33.9 KB

Speaking of Hardiplank, what's the overall impression of it? (Obviously the above application is inappropriate) It's only just beginning to make an appearance around here.

I just had a rather interesting talk with several others here at work regarding the type of sheetrock being specified for use with ceramic wall tile over it's face. Does anyone have a reference or resource for any tile manufacturer's requirements or US Gyp comments on the correct (or incorrect) selection of gypsum wall board underneath ceramic wall tile? (this goes without saying that cement board would be best, but the conversation only relates to gyp products) Any help is appreciated.

The only thing I can add is that my RUUD isn't installed with that clearance either. [:-crazy] It's not keeping me awake at night. [:-sleep]

Chris, my water heater is also a Ruud. It's an old one from 1989 (installed in '90). Mike's comments are good ones. I asked one of my mechanical engineers about it yesterday and he too replied that if the valve leaked, then it was at least a LITTLE ways away from the burner in the water heater.