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Hi, Just one more example of folks listening to real estate folks tell them how to conduct their home inspection businesses. A lot of the folks you'll be competing with will not be established inspectors - they will be other new folks who will have bought into that line and their prices will be where the realtors told them they should be - which is probably somewhere around $300 for an inspection, because that has been what realtors have been telling folks for the past decade. In order to try and get their foot in the door, new inspectors will charge less, thinking that to be a good business decision. Next thing you know, when your business begins to take off and you discover that what you're charging isn't paying the bills, and try to raise your prices, you'll catch a whole lot of grief from agents bellyaching about how 'high' you are compared to 'everyone' else. Everyone else being all of the other schmucks who swallowed that line and have also painted themselves into a corner. When the price of a house goes up 15% this year, your sister and her partner will make literally thousands more than they would have made for the same transaction only months before. This year, they probably split $10,000 to $12,000 more, after the broker's cut and advertising costs, etc., than they would have on the same house ten years ago. Yet, their comrades are still quoting the same inspection fees to their clients as 10 years ago, and then telling local inspectors what their clients are willing to pay. See anything wrong with that? I kind of study the yellow page ads as a hobby, just to see how many new inspection companies come and go every year. Want to know something? The guys who charge those bottom dollar fees don't last. Do realtors care? Hell no! When the poor schmuck prices himself out of business they just move onto the next guy who walks into their open house telling them he's new to the business and feed him the same time-honored line - "Charge more than your competitors (other new guys) and you won't get any business." It's how the real estate folks manage to manipulate most of those in this profession and it's a shame that more inspectors don't realize it. Can you imagine the row if we went around telling folks who call us for an inspection that a 6% real estate commission is exorbitant and they should go with another agent? If we worked harder at educating the public that they don't have to listen to real estate agents when it comes to even a smidgen of advice about home inspectors, we might one-day finally be able to free this profession from this cycle of B.S. Figure out what you've got to make, charge that, do a competent inspection and write a damned good report. That's what the profession needs. To hell with what real estate agents say, 'cuz they aren't going to have to pay your bills. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, My understanding of the AFCI issue is that they are designed to detect arc faults downstream from the panel in places hidden from view and mostly not easily accessible - switch boxes, receptacles, junction boxes, etc. I was taught that the panel itself is supposed to function as a large containment center, so that if there is an issue, such as a fire, in the panel it will be safely contained behind the deadfront cover. That's why having proper grommets and strain relief and intact knockouts are so critical at the panel. Once again, electricity is not my strong suit and I know that Jim will set me straight if I've got this too skewed. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Detecting Early Wood Decay by Cheryl A. Anderson, Joseph R. Loferski and Dr. Frank E. Woeste, P.E. When asked to evaluate an existing wood structure, a structural inspector is concerned with two factors: building code conformance and structural integrity. Assuming all applicable codes are met, a close look at the connections and materials used is required to determine if they are capable of supporting the design loads. Initial designs are based on the assumptions of the use of sound graded lumber and allowable stress values for the grades used. From a structural engineer's point of view, the design and construction can only be valid for future service if the material is in its original condition, free of degradation. Several factors can contribute to the degradation of lumber, including fungal decay. The purpose of this Wood Bits? is to introduce and demonstrate the use of the "pick test"? as a tool for evaluating the condition of lumber and timbers that may contain early stages of fungal decay. Decay Facts Detection of early fungal decay is an important part of the evaluation of existing wood construction. Once such decay has set in it continuously grows and expands, further degrading the wood and eventually compromising the strength of the element. Fungal decay is common in areas near fasteners, joints, checks, end grain, paint discoloration, and where lumber and timbers are in contact with or near soil. The culprit is a form of primitive plant life. Requiring the presence of liquid water in the wood cells, decay fungi only attack wet wood. Protecting untreated wood from water is therefore critical to long-term durability. Decay fungi such as brown rot attack the cell wall material of wood, causing great losses in strength. For example, research indicates that with as little as a 3-percent weight loss due to decay fungi attack, there can be as much as a 70-percent loss of strength (Eslyn et al., 1979). Unfortunately, such small amounts of damage are difficult to detect visually without the use of a microscope (Forest Products Laboratory, 1999). The first strength property to be affected is toughness: the ability to withstand impact(Forest Products laboratory, 1999). With just a 1-percent weight loss wood loses 6 to 50 percent of its toughness, and with a 10-percent weight loss over 50 percent of toughness is lost. The "pick test"? described below is based on toughness and has been proven to detect decay with as little as 5- to 10-percent weight loss (Wilcox, 1983). The Pick Test The test involves using an ice pick to penetrate the wood surface in an area where fungal decay is likely or suspected. Similar tools such as an awl or even a small screwdriver can also be used. After penetrating the wood, the tool is rotated to pry a splinter, parallel to the grain, away from the surface. The appearance of the broken splinter is then used to determine if the piece is decayed. Because different species have different densities and all lumber is affected to some degree by its environment, applying the pick test in an area where the wood is known to be sound is a recommended means of establishing a "control"? for the remainder of the inspection. The test should be conducted in a late-wood zone (the darker and more dense wood fiber that forms during the later, dry part of the yearly growth cycle), although the test may also work in early wood zones. Then begin testing areas that are conducive to fungal decay, noting how much pressure is required to penetrate the surface. The penetration depth should be about ?-inch (6.4 mm). Pry out a small amount of the surface wood and compare the results to those of the non- decayed "control"? sample. Wilcox (1983) identifies three distinct modes of failure for decayed and non-decayed wood. Non-decayed wood will generally fail with either a fibrous failure or a splintering break, as shown in Figures 1a and 2 (Click images to enlarge). Decayed wood will have a brash, brittle failure with breaks directly over the tool. Very few splinters, if any, will appear and the break will occur across the grain, as shown in Figures 1b and 3. The samples pictured in Figures 1a and 1b were taken from a salvaged Douglas Fir log yard. Because the exterior of each is similarly weathered, they could be mistaken for being in comparable condition based solely on visual inspection. In a fibrous failure, the splinters are long and separate from the surface far from the tool, as shown in Figure 2 (virgin Douglas Fir), whereas a splintering break typically occurs directly over the tool with numerous splinters. Sound wood is very dense and in such good condition that penetration is difficult. The sound caused by the break can also be an indication of the quality of the wood. With non-decayed wood, the sound will be what one expects to hear when wood breaks. In contrast, when decayed wood breaks the sound will not be as loud and is sometimes barely audible. Conclusions The pick test is a simple, subjective test that is useful in detecting decay near the surface of wood members. With experience, the user will be able to identify fungal decay more readily and detect the subtle differences between decayed and non-decayed areas. The test is especially useful for inspections in which only knowledge of the presence of decay is needed. For example, we recommend that wooden members be replaced if any decay is detected in a residential deck or balcony. Due consideration should always be given to whether or not the lumber is pressure preservative treated when requiring the replacement of elements, and in determining the presence or extent of decay in large structures or where members are very costly or difficult to replace, additional tests such as coring, stress-wave mapping or even X-rays analysis should be considered. Questions and comments are welcome and may be sent to Dr. Woeste via e-mail at fwoeste@vt.edu. References Forest Products Laboratory. 1999. Wood Handbook: Wood as an Engineering Material. General Technical Report FPL-GTR-113. Forest Products Laboratory. U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service. Washington, D.C. (Text is available free online here. Eslyn, Wallace E. and Joe W. Clark. 1979. Wood Bridges—Decay Inspection and Control.Agricultural Handbook No. 557. Forest Products Laboratory. U.S. Department of Agriculture Forest Service. Washington, D.C. Wilcox, W. W. 1983. Sensitivity of the "Pick Test" for Field Detection of Early Wood Decay.? Forest Products Journal 33(2):29 and 30. Forest Products Society. Madison, WI. Cheryl Anderson and Dr. Frank E. Woeste, P.E., are Graduate Research Assistant and Professor, respectively, at the Virginia Tech University, Blacksburg, Biological Systems Engineering Department. Dr. Joseph R. Loferski is a Professor at Virginia Tech's Wood Science and Forest Products Department. The views expressed here are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion or agreement of the International Conference of Building Officials. TIJ would like to thank Prof. Woeste for allowing us to reprint this paper.

No, The panel is not a 'branch' circuit or receptacle and you don't plug anything into it. Only the branch circuits. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Chimbley?! Heck Jim, I haven't heard that colloquialism for at least 30 years. It's what the locals in the farming town of Amenia, NY, (population 1100 give or take) where I grew up, used to call 'em. I sure hope you aren't calling them that in your reports - unless your wearing oversized bib coveralls and a straw hat, that is. [] ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, I don't know that I'd go so far as to call it mold. When you tell someone it's mold they automatically think "toxic mold" when it's anything but. It makes more sense to call it mildew and Kurt is right - insufficient air movement and that insulation against the underside of the roof is causing it. Moisture-laden air is migrating up through that loose fill and when it reaches the underside of that cold roof is condenses and feeds the spore. Increase air movement from the perimeter by adjusting the height of the insulation, increase the amount of intake air and it will probably arrest. They could try using some JoMax on that gable end wall to see if it disappears and then, if so, treat the underside of the roof. Look for additional moisture-laden air sources - open wire holes in plates, no gasket around the access, leaky outlets and switch plates, fans venting directly into the attic. Stop the source of the moisture and it's licked. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Yeah, And paint begins chalking in about 3 months, so it's not necessarily a sign of impending paint failure. Brian, I hate to paint too. I probably hate to paint more than anything else I can think of. Here's my strategy. Decide on a house color and stick to it, no matter what. Paint the most visible side year one. I could hang for one side, but knowing I gotta do three more? Uh, uh. I'd rather get a couple dozen root canals. Year two, paint the next most visible. Year three, the next and year four the last. Now you've got about another six or seven before you need to do side one again. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Well, Now you all know what it is we're supposed to use that danged magnifying glass for that is on so many logos! OT - OF!!! M.

Hi, When I find them I usually check the label on the panel for the breaker type, not the brand, and then look at the label on the breaker to see what type it is. For instance there's that type HOM breaker that seems to be made by Square D, Bryant and Cutler Hammer. If the breaker type matches the label, regardless of brand name, I don't write it up. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, The color is lighter, but I see a lot of it here. It is usually a rusty color from the fire retardant and it was sold around here under the name SilvaWool. I'm sure there are probably other brands of the same stuff that were sold. Did you try to burn a little bit of it to see if it has been treated? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, The rule for the kitchen is all circuits GFCI protected except that those receptacles that are not readily accessible may be non-GFCI protected or words to that effect. Having a fridge on a GFCI receptacle is pretty dumb, but I don't think it is prohibited. Jim will correct me if I'm wrong. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, Hi, how long is it? Is the hinge still stamped steel with those little one-inch releases off to one side of the hinge center? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, Nope, don't know. Dump the cheap tester and get something you can rely on. I once did an inspection for an electrician who was buying an 11 year old home. My SureTest ST-1D indicated that half of the outlets in the home were ungrounded. The electrician opined that my tester was faulty and asked if I had a "real" detector. "Oh, you mean one of these?" I asked as I pulled a $12. 3-light tester out of my bag. "Yeah, that's what I mean. Let me test 'em with that," he said. I handed the tester to him and he re-tested all of the outlets involved. Every one showed a ground. "See, that gadget is all screwed up. These are fine," he said. "Okay, you're the electrician," I replied, as I handed him a screwdriver, "How about pulling those covers and telling me whether there is a ground present?" So, he pulled all of the covers. Guess what? At every single receptacle some nimrod had snipped off the equipment grounding conductor. Says the electrician, kind of sheepishly, "Man, I've got to get me one of those!" pointing to my SureTest ST-1D. My response was to hold up the two testers and say, "SureTest, almost $400. this thing, twelve bucks, which would you have believed if you were me?" Nuff said. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, I have to echo Bill's remarks. Only one main disconnect required. Some condos here have a single throw in the subs but most have individual circuits with the main being at the meter array elsewhere in the building. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Okay, Go to "Resources" above, click on "Downloads", scroll all the way to the bottom to the last two documents and you've got them. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Go here.http://www.tileroofing.org/tri.aspx?cat ... tors&id=58 ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Somebody should inform that homeowner that if that garage door kills someone with those eyes up there that he could be subject to criminal prosecution for negligent manslaughter under federal law for intentionally violating 16CFR1211 and causing a death. OT - OF!!! M.

Hi Scott, Aren't you concerned with hanta virus? I thought that I heard someplace that there is a much higher ratio of hanta in deer mice down in your neck of the wood. OT - OF!!! M.

You don't need anything fancy. Just get one that fits you well and be sure to test the seal every time you use it. I've used an inexpensive AO Safety half-face respirator with P100 filters for years. I picked it up at the orange box for around $35. and I buy the filters about a half dozen at a time. I forget what I paid for them. There isn't anything that's going to filter out CO and doing home inspector work you're not going to be exposed to it unless you're foolish enough to lie down to take a nap in a furnace room someplace. One Team - One fight!!! Mike

Hi, Same here. It's extremely rare to find them in all rooms on new homes and it's about 50-50 on homes built prior to the 70's. There's typically one return per floor here and doors are undercut. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, The June issue of Frame Building News spotlighted treated wood. There were articles on CCA, the new treated wood alternatives and corrosion issues. It had articles on: -Choosing the right treated wood -Accepted uses for CCA -Manufacturers' recommendations for mimimizing corrosion -Guidelines for structural safety -Research and Technology: Galvanized fasteners and corrosion in wood (Part II) Go to http://www.framebuildingnews.com where you'll be able to access one of them without registering. For the rest you'll need to register for a free subscription and then you may be able to access them online. If not, call them and ask if they'll send you a back issue. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi Chad, Put your cursor on 'resources' in the menu bar above and then choose 'downloads'. Scan the list, you'll find a host of stuff there about manufactured homes - Foundations/Support/Inspection Guidelines. Mike

Yes, That is what I'm saying. For instance, the GE Spacesaver oven has a height of 16 1/2 inches. When you install it beneath the small cabinet set at the standard 66 inch height, the bottom of it is 49 1/2 inches from the floor or only 13 1/2 inches from the top of a stove flush with the counters at the standard 36-inch height. The manufacturer knows full well that it will be that close to the oven when the cabinet is set at the minimum allowable height and it is designed that way. If someone wants to use a big stock pot on a stove under one of these, they'll just have to place it on the front burners. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

Hi, I don't think you should let yourself get wrapped around the axle over minutia. The minimum code clearance these days is 24 inches from the stovetop to the underside of a microwave, unless the manufacturer's listing and labeling allows it to be closer. Most do and here's why: The bottom of the microwave must be steel, at least 28 guage thick. The minimum clearance to the underside of those little overrange cabinets is 30 inches from the surface of the stove and not less than 66 inches from the floor. Those have pretty much been standardized, except in the case of a home where the kitchen is designed for a handycapped person, and all of the manufacturer's and builders use those specs. You can pull up installation manuals for various overstove microwaves and range hoods online and find those numbers in their installation manuals. So, the appliance manufacturer's make the microwaves with 28 gauge steel on the underside and design them with those minimum clearances in mind - knowing full well that they'll be below the 24 inch minimum that code specifies. It might not make a whole lot of sense to you or I, but unless you can prove that the manufacturer's specs state that you cannot install the microwave that close to the range, than calling it because you don't think it makes sense might not be the right call. After all, the people who are going to use it have seen it and already know whether they are comfortable with the clearance. All they are really interested in knowing is whether it is installed correctly, works, presents a hazard or is somehow illegal. If they are uncomfortable with the height at those minimum standards they can always raise the cabinets and microwave to a height that makes them comfortable. ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike

No they don't, They obviously also don't understand that, if the client moves into a home with a dead tree next to it, doesn't do anything to have the tree inspected by an arborist, and declared healthy and not a threat to the home, and it falls on the home, the client is screwed. The insurance company will not pay because the client hasn't exercised due diligence. Who do you suppose the client comes after then? ONE TEAM - ONE FIGHT!!! Mike