John Dirks Jr

For instance, when I'm doing the electrical part of the report and adding pics my screen looks like this; Click to Enlarge 394.27 KB If I want to move to another pic category, I hit the back button on the pic folder and it looks like this; Click to Enlarge 303.62 KB

Gary, I understand that staying on target with the way the template is set up while inspecting could speed up report writing. My problem is, I can't seem to stay boxed by the template while inspecting. It's just not my style. With palm tech, I dont upload the pictures to the report writing software. I drag them from the windows pic folder over to the line in the report. There's nothing confusing or complicated about it. It's just a matter of me being able to adjust efficiency to my particular style of inspecting and report writing. For instance, if I'm having to wait for an AC unit to mozy through its delay process on start up, I'm jabbing receptacles with my tester while I wait. So there's a host of things that can cause changes or delays. I'm always adapting and have never been able to be locked in a box of the report template. The latest screen shots I've showed is my new method of quickly sorting pictures prior to report writing. The idea is to unscramble my activity which I exercised while inspecting. I've just finished writing my first report using this method and I'm quite pleased with the results so far. One major reason I did not even look at HG is that (at least at the time) they did not have an app for the iphone. The iphone is my device which I carry around when inspecting and the app is very helpful. I use the data collected on the app along with pictures I take with my Panasonic Lumix to write the report on Windows 7 PC.

Updated sorting folder Click to Enlarge 1070.92 KB

I'm going to give pic sorting a chance. I made a file folder which includes category sub folders. I'll save it for copy and rename as needed. I'll scroll through the main pic folder on the right and drag drop to the category folders on the left. In the process I'll also be deleting any bad pics. Then, when I go to write the report. I'll do it one sub category at a time to eliminate all the jumping around in the report template. Here's a screen shot of what Ill do. Click to Enlarge 52 KB Click to Enlarge 1222.86 KB

As for Palmtech not showing much of the comments, the template can be changed to suit needs. I ditched the description features in most lines except where SOP requires me to identify something. This layout lets me see enough of the comments to identify them. Here's a screenshot for example. Click to Enlarge 242.55 KB

Erby, I use Palmtech and I already do the report writing very similar to you. I'm just looking for a way to reduce all the jumping around in the template. Perhaps I should explore ways of efficiently sorting the pictures in the folder before running through the process of putting the report together.

Another way I think I could really speed up reporting time is to stay more organized at the inspection. For some reason I find it hard to do that. The pictures relative to category are scattered all over in my folder. Then when report writing I have to jump all around the folder to put things together. How can I break this habit of not taking pictures in categorical order? Is there other ideas that could help? Thanks.

Have any of you seen any cases of frost heave this year due to the exceptionally cold winter we've had? If so, please describe them There were two cases where I think the conclusion was such. 1) I got a call to inspect a structure that had experienced loud banging noises across the back of the house. It was a split level with a rear deck off the top level and a rear grade sloped away from the house. The deck attachment was of cantilevered design (no ledger). My best guess was the deck post footers at the outer end had been heaving upward enough to cause a pivot at the cantilever attachment to the main floor structure. The movement resulted in the banging noises. 2) Modular ranch style home on crawlspace. Gaps in the interior trim and wall components and doors rubbing frames would make you conclude the piers and main center beam was settling. After thoroughly checking everything in the crawl, there were no signs of the piers or center beam moving at all. Since the center piers are rarely subjected to frost heave, I'm wondering if the perimeter walls could have lifted under pressure of frost heave.

There's some good information on Transite duct work at this link. http://inspectapedia.com/hazmat/Asbesto ... _Ducts.htm

This one was pretty bad. The two story slab on grade house had a real crappy elec resistance (only) furnace mounted in the attic and duct work in the ceiling of the first floor. No wonder they used the fireplace so much. Click to Enlarge 39.58 KB Click to Enlarge 64.63 KB Click to Enlarge 59.58 KB

Which inspection report softwares have searchable comment libraries? When did those softwares first show up on the market?

No, thats a trap! Cant you see that? Wait, its a double trap.

So far I have 30 under the main panel title. How about breakers, wiring, and enclosure? I already have a separate breaker category. But you suggestion of panel enclosure and panel wiring is what I had been thinking of also. When I get a chance, I'll sort and post back how well the lot was divided.

I use Palm Tech. To my knowledge, it's not searchable either.

So far I have 30 under the main panel title.

Trust me, I always cover my butt when it comes to this stuff. That picture is oriented correctly. It's displayed as right side up. If you look close you can see some debris sitting at the bottom of the pipe.

Good call. I should have figured that. It makes sense considering the moisture concerns related to this under slab duct work.

What is the white coloration on the interior of this under slab transite ductwork? Could it be deterioration and friable asbestos fibers? Click to Enlarge 41.92 KB

In my comments library I have a title for a category called Main Panel. As you all know, we find all kinds of problems inside electrical panels. As a result, the number of comments has grown to the point I find myself spending time hunting through to find what I want. I want to create some sub categories for problems found with main panels so I can spread out the stored comments better. What titles would you suggest to subdivide main panel problems?

I have seen a few other cases where 20 year old shingles looked this good. Every time its always the ones colored in the red and brown shades. I don't know if the color plays a role or not. Just noting my experience.

That is exactly what I did Jim. I started the discussion to see what the forum members opinions were on how this would be fixed. The combined experience here is a great resource and learning from members gives me good general information to share with clients.

I gave them "at least 5 years". The owner moved in in '93 and those were the shingles on the main part, not including the porch addition. So, they are already 21 years old. Albeit, they were in good shape for that age. Good granular adhesion but beginning to get a little brittle. The pipe collars were totally shot. Owner had wrapped duct tape around them and it was worn away too. Click to Enlarge 84.88 KB

It's possible that leaks could be undetectable in the normal scope of a home inspection. Isn't that correct? Surely water can get under some of those shingles where it shouldn't. That can cause problems whether I can detect them at the time of the inspection or not. The poor installation details were described and it was recommended that a qualified roofer fix it.

Thanks for your response and assessment David. I have no idea why they even put a ridge vent on there. Probably to charge more money. It isn't even needed since roof is covering an exterior screened porch and the ceiling is vaulted pretty much up to the roof deck. Airspace gap is the width of the rafter I suppose.

The overall condition of the shingles on this roof was not all that bad. I gave them at least 5 yrs remaining life. Obviously, the valley work where the porch roof was installed (at a later date) looks unprofessional. What would be the minimal involvement in getting this corrected? How far up each slope would shingles need to be removed before re-installing a decent valley? Click to Enlarge 47.55 KB Click to Enlarge 80.87 KB Click to Enlarge 66.51 KB Click to Enlarge 65.69 KB Click to Enlarge 80.08 KB