John Dirks Jr

I agree with the others who would not offer a fee refund. I too would politely explain the item as an option. As a matter of fact, during the inspection I always tell the client if there is no blower and show them the data plate and model number of the unit. I tell them they can usually obtain the manual online and get information on optional accessories such as blowers, remotes, etc.... I never report lack of a blower. If a blower is present but not working, I do report that.

Wider angle pictures might show more but I see three issues. 1. No drip loop at the splice. 2. The weather head should not be laying sideways. 3. Inadequate support for the service entrance cable.

Ebay allows the response to bad reviews. I cant see why other sites can't do the same. I generally keep my business away from social media.

All 9 fixtures in. The total is 18 T8 Phillips LED insta fit. 252 watts total. Plenty of light. Instant on even in really cold weather. Click to Enlarge 73.24 KB

I can imaging how the furring strips were not much of a meal. Thereby, sending them higher in search of the good stuff.

Bill, Could you tell if it was an active infestation or not? Do you have any idea if they were sustaining in wet wood in the upper structure and had no actual ground contact? Could you see a path of them between that upper structure and the ground? Sorry about all the questions but I'm interested in unusual situations since I actually do WDI inspections.

Yes, The white insulated conductor (normally used as neutral) should be marked when used as a hot. Not only in the main and sub panels but also in appliance disconnects such as at the AC unit. I've seen them taped with black tape or red tape. I also see them colored with either black or red marker magic marker pen.

Exactly as Bill said. I've had this same thing on new home inspections. Checked the exterior hose bib and got 60psi. The county inspectors want to see the sprinkler system pressurized to a certain point. The check valve holds it in while on the house side the pressure is lower. That makes sense, but I can't wrap my head around why. If the pressure at the street is 60 psi or there abouts, wouldn't the fire suppression system flow at 60 psi after a short burst of high pressure? (I'm surely missing something here.) I'm not totally sure but the initial charge you see may be residual from system testing when it was installed. In order to measure a specific flow capability higher up in the structure they have to charge it up high.

The double taps are actually the surge protector connections. I do see an unmarked white being uses as hot though.

Exactly as Bill said. I've had this same thing on new home inspections. Checked the exterior hose bib and got 60psi. The county inspectors want to see the sprinkler system pressurized to a certain point. The check valve holds it in while on the house side the pressure is lower.

Subject - 24x36 uninsulated post frame garage with vented soffit and ridge. I'm looking for a heater I can use to take the edge off the cold when I work inside the garage during winter. I think I like the following heater. Do you think this is enough BTU to serve my purpose? If not, what would you recommend? MH-70-SS http://www.masterindustrialproducts.com ... eating.php

We have Eastern Subterranean here. Unlike you which also have the much more voracious Formosan. The Tuff Posts have lifetime warranty for the original owner but I'll get my pest control friend to do preventative treatment anyway. http://www.tuff-post.com/

Roof loads carried as follows; 10 trusses total 4' on center including the gable trusses. The four trusses at inner post positions are bearing directly on the 6x6 laminated Tuff Post which are notched at the top for the bearing spot. Click to Enlarge 39.86 KB Click to Enlarge 51.56 KB The gable trusses are bearing on the headers which over hang the corner posts. The end gaps are filled with 2x6 and nailed in with 16d to extend the bearing surface for the gable trusses. Click to Enlarge 34.84 KB The remaining 4 trusses are bearing on the headers and are fastened with 2x6 pieces which are sandwiched between the header gaps. Click to Enlarge 45.32 KB Click to Enlarge 54.19 KB The headers fastened to the posts with 16d and structural ledger screws. Click to Enlarge 34.98 KB Click to Enlarge 48.19 KB Click to Enlarge 29 KB Two 2x12 stacked as header for vehicle door openings and nailed with 16d including 2x6 nailed to post for additional header bearing. I think the double stacked 2x12's will do good in preventing wind from racking the building. Click to Enlarge 33.28 KB

I open it up and carry to position, then extend as needed.

Screwdrivers jammed between the deck slats.

Here's one I found not long ago. You really want to keep up on the plumbing in this case. Click to Enlarge 39.65 KB

Got Light? Here's one fixture with 2 Phillips T8 LED tubes. The tubes are 14 watts each so 28 watts per fixture. My plan now has 3 rows of 3 for a total of 9 fixtures at 252 watts total. Each row will be individually switched at both the man door and vehicle doors. Click to Enlarge 19.03 KB Click to Enlarge 63.16 KB

It's a crazy contraption but gets the job done. Click to Enlarge 78.12 KB

I dont know what it looks like inside but that chimney doesn't look all that bad. Slap a new crown on it and top it off with a cap. It's held up well for 64 years of exposure. It's about as good as most I see from that time frame around my way.

Got it. Thanks.

There should be a safety switch on the blower compartment cover. When you remove the cover, power to the system should be cutoff. If so, there would not be risk of shock.

Concrete and vehicle doors are yet to be done. I'm fine tuning the grading and planning my walks and fences too. Click to Enlarge 75.34 KB

Very well put, Marc!

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I'll be doing lighting and receptacles on the same circuit.