John Dirks Jr

I never thought those panels breathed very well even when they were cut right. Just not much total opening there. Now, if they were actually punched out rather than dimpled, then you'd have some breathing area.

In my area, if there's loose fill in the attic, it's unusual to not see the rodent burrows.

I saw the set screw like that too. But when I pushed on the neutral it easily moved around in the lug. Maybe it's cut too short. Most of the blackened is from the anti seize compound boiling off from the heat of resistance.

Doubled branch circuit neutrals on the left side as well.

Thanks Jim. But are there any concerns of shock hazards to occupants?

GoDaddy for 8 years. Hasn't broken so I aint fixin' it...

I found this main service panel in a 2002 townhome today. The panel wiring was orderly otherwise but they forgot to tighten the neutral at the main lug. It was still loose. If you lose connection of the neutral lug, are there any safety hazards likely such as the GEC becoming live? Click to Enlarge 38.18 KB Click to Enlarge 42.62 KB Click to Enlarge 43.47 KB

The boiler plate I listed in this thread can be criticized, just like anything else that's written. But is it misleading to a client? Does it place me at an elevated risk of liability?

You know, you could substitute the word "copper" for the word "aluminum" in that paragraph and it would be just as true. Jim, Your views always help me keep the sensationalism to a minimum. It's very appreciated.

I don't try and guess the age. I do give an estimated remaining life based on the condition of the shingles. My range of estimations are as such and include the descriptive characteristics that gave me the conclusion; 1) The roof covering is at or beyond its service live and needs to be replaced. 2) The roof covering is approaching the end of its service life and will need to be replaced within the next 2-3 years. 3) The roof covering is in satisfactory condition and should last at least 5 years (provided that its not subjected to physical damage) And so on. Of course, these estimates are only part of the reporting. I also put in the various repair and installation concerns that are found. And they can be found on any roof, regardless of the remaining life of the covering.

Here is the boiler I wrote for branch circuit aluminum wiring. Aluminum branch circuit wiring was identified at ***. Aluminum branch circuit wiring has a history of causing fires when improperly installed. It can be safe if installed correctly with all connections being updated and proper. It is beyond the scope of this inspection to verify the correct installation of any branch circuit aluminum wiring in this house. Have the aluminum wiring in this house further investigated by a qualified electrician to determine if any corrections need to be made. Have them repair all issues that may exist. More information at the following site. >>> http://inspectapedia.com/aluminum/aluminum.htm

When it comes to raccoons, watch out for their poop. It's probably the most dangerous thing about them. http://www.cdc.gov/parasites/baylisasca ... trines.pdf

Every now and then, "'cause the rules say so". I've heard you say it before. I make recommendations "because they say so," but I don't achieve understanding because they say so. I'm just trying to understand the rationalization behind what seems to be a stupid requirement. I think it's partially to do with litigation and the argument over whether the product is deficient or not. The expanded bonding requirements were born out of that situation. The manufacturers are saying, "do this and it's safe". It's then a claim they can make that the product was not installed correctly when a problem happens.

Denny, I now see that you fell "on" the roof as opposed to "off of" the roof. Still very dangerous. Glad you're ok. I went onto an icy roof the other day. There was a somewhat dry patch where I set my ladder and it was a lower slope rancher roof. But I still thought to myself, "what the f... are you doing?"

Every now and then, "'cause the rules say so". I've heard you say it before.

Ditto. On that one, go up the valley on the clean side. Then straight up to the ridge. Shimmy down to the chimney if you want but stay in line with the chimney so you can slide into it if needed. Then, back up to the ridge while staying in line with the chimney. Again, stay inline with the little porch dormer roof when moving back down the front side. Finally, back down that little valley to the ladder. Gald you're ok.

If anyone is interested in led shop lights and you have a Costco near you, this is a good deal. Click to Enlarge 85.42 KB

Okay, 32" it will be. I'm glad I asked. Is there a particular type or model that is preferred?

I carry the small torpedo level. I also had a 4' level that got damaged so I chucked it. I'm going to replace the 4' level. My choice now is, which length do I get? What length level do you think is more useful in this gig? 4' or 6'? Can you give examples where either is preferred? Thanks.

It can get scary. I once found a #12 cable serving a cook range fed by a 50 amp breaker. There were no visible signs of cable overheating but nonetheless, a disaster waiting to happen.

Most electric ranges I see are on 40 or 50amp breakers. Yes, it should be 40 amp for a modern electric range. If it's an older house with a 30 amp breaker, the range outlet might be only 3-wire cable, missing the neutral. An electrician needs to repair that and it will probably involve installing a 4-wire #8 cable. John I get your reasoning but would that same imbalance not happen when someone flips on a light or a bath fan elsewhere in the house? I suspect some foul play in the wiring behind the stove, a jumper from the microwave to allow the stove gauges to work maybe? Sure, something in another part of the house might cause it too. In this case, the inspector was operating things in the kitchen.

Most electric ranges I see are on 40 or 50amp breakers.

The range breaker is probably right at its limit with all the range elements turned on. Maybe the microwave fan motor is causing a slight voltage drop at the panel bus bar. In turn, that creates a slight amperage spike at the bus, just that tad more that trips the range breake which is operating at the edge of its limits. What size was the range breaker? Maybe it's one size too small.

By looking at the first picture, is there clearly a missing or incorrectly installed part that is allowing the rain to leak into the bottom of the gas fireplace insert? This is the first time I've seen this happen. Click to Enlarge 62.48 KB Click to Enlarge 43.52 KB Click to Enlarge 46.24 KB

Even though it's apparently not prohibited by written rule, I totally agree with your concern.