John Dirks Jr

I wont be getting a welder. I have a 240v feed to a compressor in the attached shop 10 feet away from the garage and the air hose stretches 50 feet. All of my other power tools are cordless Li rechargeable. What I cant do with that I'll do by hand. I need electricity for lighting, vehicle door openers, boom box and nothing more. A single 20 amp circuit is all I need. Heck, since I'm using LED exclusively for lighting, with every fixture on it will be 252 watts. That will be 18 T8 LED bulbs. I wont even come close to straining a 20 amp circuit.

Single phase 20amp circuit is all I want and all I need in my detached garage. I got a 240v in the nearby shop attached to the house for anything heavy.

I have an electrician pulling a permit for the detached garage wiring. We were discussing the wiring methods. I wanted to run the #12 UF (single 120v 20amp GFI protected at the main panel) from the house to the garage in PVC conduit underground. The electrician told me the AHJ will fail it citing raceway inside a raceway. The electrician agrees that it doesn't make much sense but that's what they do in these parts. My electrician says I can run the UF exposed along the house surface and all I need is a short piece of PVC conduit to protect it where it enters or emerges from the ground. I guess he's the one familiar with how the AHJ is in this area. What are things like in your area? Are there conflicts with what NEC or IRC allow and what the AHJ allows in wiring methods such as this?

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I've like these type too. Click to Enlarge 14.98 KB

Framing partially completed Click to Enlarge 84.96 KB Front view. The right post look crooked in this picture for some reason. But trust me, everything is square and plumb. Click to Enlarge 133.9 KB Side view Click to Enlarge 82.34 KB

9.5' to 11' ceiling height. The front third has bottom chord truss and the rear 2/3 has scissor truss. I wanted to gain some extra height for possible 4 post vehicle lift at the back end of the garage. Bottom chord trusses near the front provide some limited storage but also facilitate supporting vehicle door tracks and door openers.

I had been thinking the same thing. Something portable like this for task lighting. Click to Enlarge 38.06 KB

My 24'x36' post frame garage is under construction. I'm planning the wiring and lighting. I'd like some opinions on the types of fixtures and bulbs I should use. The garage will not be heated so whatever I use needs to perform well in cold temps. I will be installing two groups of three way switches (three switches in each group). One group between the two vehicle doors and the other group at the man door which is closer to the rear of the garage. My plan is to have three lighting zones which can be controlled from either location. I'm considering LED due to lower energy use and good cold weather performance. I was thinking maybe 12 of these and put them into standard 4' fluorescent double bulb fixtures and install two in each zone. These bulbs have 1600 lumens each so twelve of them will yield 19,200 lumen total. Is that enough for 24x36 garage? What are your opinions on other garage lighting ideas. I'm open to any suggestions.

When I write up electrical issues in a report I expect my comments to be scrutinized. So, I make sure I'm clear and correct. In a case like this, I might offer to speak to the electrician on the phone about the items in the report. But I would refuse to visit the site again. It's a waste of time. I was already there and I know whats wrong. Perhaps this so called electrician is not really that. Perhaps he/she needs guidance. I'm just wondering.

Drywall cracks may or may not indicate concerns. Could be poor cosmetics or could be indication of movement in the structure. To know either way, I would need to see them myself, or, at least see some good pictures. If you are coming out of this process with unanswered questions, it's clear the inspector did a poor job of communicating with you. I know for sure that describing things in an inspection report with single words is way below par.

I'm curious. Are 1), 2) and 3) as you typed them here the inspectors exact words? For the record, my reports do not list major, minor, etc. I just identify problems and write them up. I believe that rating items in an inspection report devalues information and gives sellers a reason to decline repairing them.

Owning other domains prevents your competition from using them. This means greater potential for traffic at your active site.

Why would you need to access the controls when the door is closed? I see two of three of these a month. Even when the front of the dishwasher doesn't sit on the finish flooring, you can't really get to the controls and, even if you could, you can't see what's what anyway. They're designed to have the buttons pushed before the door is closed. I figured if you wanted to push cancel you wouldn't need to open the door and risk a potential leak by stopping the machine in mid wash cycle. Is that silly thinking? John, With newer dishwashers I often do not run a full cycle. As soon as you open the door it shuts off. I just open it enough to stop then wait a second or two, open it further and push cancel. Never have a problem with leaks. It seemed strange at first, but I see them all the time now. When you push cancel and close the door, does the pump pull all the water out? I dont want to do is leave a dishwasher with water pooled up in it.

Good point. Especially if on well water.

A trial attorney would be all over any part of any report that anyone writes. That's what trial attorneys do. If we try to write our reports in an attempt to make them trial-attorney-proof, we'll end up writing lousy reports. Instead, strive to make your meaning clear to a lay person. Point well taken.

Three sentences. Marc This tells them to look for problems but it doesn't tell them to fix them if found. If there is water damage behind stucco caused by water from exterior intrusion, it's because there's installation details that are wrong. A trial attorney would be all over that.

Pressure doesn't need to be that high to satisfy people. Volume is the important thing for occupants. Enough volume and everyone is happy. I'd be suspecting the galvanized supply line too.

How about a recommendation of sorts instead of a disclaimer? Regarding the stucco exterior finish, I did not see any water intrusion evidence on the day of the inspection. However, this does not mean that it will not ever happen. Therein lies the importance of proper flashing and water drainage details. Have a qualified stucco specialist review this installation to deem and implement necessary corrections for water intrusion prevention.

Perhaps a mistake in the system design that was overlooked and never corrected?

Just remember that no software makes a good product by itself. They all take good effort of the writer to make a good final product. Relying on the boiler plate that comes with the software to provide clarity to the client is sketchy at best.

In the case you described, tripping the circuit by using the button on the GFI receptacle then checking down stream to see which other receptacles lost power is the correct way (on un-grounded circuits) to determine if the downstream receptacles are GFI protected. I think you did it correctly.

The coil was on the pressure side as usual.

That is odd. As for the beetle holes in the first pic, the infestation was probably in that piece of wood when it was constructed. I think it's unlikely the beetles would infest that piece and leave the others on either side alone. The beetles will re infest in later cycles. If the holes are more uniform across multiple pieces in other places, those are probably from a re infestation which happened after the initial construction.

Thanks Marc. I did a bit more searching and found one source that said the evap core freeze up caused by dirty filters can melt off in a manner that bypasses the drain pan. That could do it too I suppose.