sepefrio

Agree 100% here. Go with the strongest LOCAL organization. The one that does in fact have quality training every month and members who care. The big guys at the top can be the best intentioned folks around, but if the local chapter sucks, the whole thing does for you. You should be able to attend at least 1 meeting to meet who all is there and see what goes down. Good Luck

The mythbusters proved this one out! And not sure how popular it is, but my grandmother drilled in into my head... The answer to every question you don't ask is no. (In other words, ask, you have nothing to lose)

I meant nice from the consumer stand point when they honestly do get screwed over.

Brutal maybe but also VERY nice. First, that fund is funded by all contractors not just HI's Short version, I paid a company for new kitchen, owner cashed my 1st installment check and disappeared. Took me almost 2 years going through the fund but I got every penny back plus legal expenses. Owner has a warrant out for her arrest. I have a new kitchen.

That man makes me proud to be Navy!

Need an inspector for both (if you travel) or each one. My mother is selling in St Pete and may need some on hands advice then she will be buying Venice.

If you are new to business and not really sure about social networking BNI for a year can be a good learning tool. I certainly learned quite a bit. But after that, it is more just a siphon for your money. The people in the group may be great, but it is not a place to make money. I did make more money in referrals than I paid, that is for certain, but then you must add a meeting every week (that is a lost inspection slot) and the possible cost of the meal every week (mine was $10, but even with holidays and that is over $500 a year). Then you have training you have to go to and meetings to attend. All lost potential inspection times. This does not even account the actual social meetings where you might drum up some business. So, again, I found it to be a very valuable learning tool. But after the first year the costs were just too high for lack of any new returns.

LOL, case in point.... Gambler Sue casino because he lost

In the world of million dollar lawsuit because they didn't tell you the coffee was hot, I can see what he is implying. Appraiser comes in, does his thing and in his report states that all utilities work. That is a very vague statement that can easily be taken out of context. For example, the Agent reads the report, the client asks if a home inspector should be called and the RE says no need, the appraiser already said everything works. We know where the true blame lies, but we also know, when that same client calls the agent 6 months later to complain about the ceiling that collapsed because of a leak in the bathroom, the first thing the agent will say is "Well you need to call the appraiser" then play stupid. Personally I remember having to tell my clients what the difference between an appraiser and a home inspector is. It is a situation that can be exploited. Remember a little while back, agents did nothing but complain about appraisers because they didn't value the house for enough money, then when the market turned those same agents turned on the appraisers blaming them for falsely overvaluing homes? Yes, as written and to people with common sense and no lawyer friends it may sound ridiculous, but I've known since I was 5 that coffee was hot too.

Having a little problem at a family members house that I just can't find the cause to. And it's not just me, 3 roofers and 1 general contractor could not figure it out either. I'll try and get some pictures later to set the scene but not sure how helpful they will be. What I'm asking here is 1) Anyone seen this before or 2) Can you think of things I can do to attempt to find the cause The situation is simply rain slapping against a window. It appears an inordinate amount of water funnels to this 2-3 area and some how wraps around, behind or through the gutter somehow, follows the soffit about halfway towards the house then falls diagonally and strikes the window directly. From the inside of the house it sounds like someone is outside and has a hose directed at the window. The volume of water is almost as great as well. What I have tried so far.... Put a hose in the gutter to look for leaks, and nothing. It drained as advertised. (The gutters do have a leaf guard installed) Run a hose on the roof trying to duplicate rain, but no luck. Used tape to seal the seam between the gutter and the facia as well as any other seam I could find. Problem remained at next rain storm Stood in front of the window with a large piece of card board to block possible wind driven rain, no change at any angle. My cousin even installed a 8ft section of rain diverter on the roof (against my advice), no change. Some things of note, like I said there are leaf guards on the gutter, but they swear this problem existed before they were installed too. The location this happen is about center of a long straight run. The closest valley is about 10ft away. I see no signs of any type of water damage or any damage in the attic for this section of the roof. What I was thinking of doing next was getting on the roof again with a hose and some type of confetti. I'm thinking the confetti would more easily show me the water flow. What is obvious to me is that the volume of water tells me the water is coming from more than just directly above it. It is being funneled from someplace else too. I've probably stood in the rain watching it for 2 hours now (over several storms) and the only thing I have achieved is in getting wet. Any help, advice or comments would be nice. The noise of this effect is driving them mad and they are considering bricking over the window. Until I get some pictures this might help to set the scene. It happens almost dead center of the window on the left. The picture is a bit old so you can't see the diverter, but it extends past both sides of the window. http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source= ... 6,,1,-4.87

I'm NOT a lawyer but I will tell you what my lawyer said. First he asked if I believed in Murphy's law I said yes. Then he asked if I wanted to lose my house. Every time I would say "but I have E&O", or anything else he would interrupt with..... "Do you want to lose your house?" He did that until I got the point. With an LLC, the ability to lose your house because of a Business mistake are drastically less than any other form of affordable business type. So I too say LLC.

I forget exactly what they said, but is was a new, more efficient induction type I think. One that draws air from the outside. Of course to install it, the entire thing would need to be replaced, fireplace, flue, cap the works. Going to do some more research and look at how much work it takes to change it out.

Mike, Hrmm that is an interesting site. Gonna do some measuring and stuff, but it looks like there is a decent replacement, thanks. Jim, LOL, You see, us Florida raised boys know nothing about that. Now I can burn down areas of swamp, but no real experience with real fireplaces. One note, I cleaned it extra special for the picture, but I (used to) remove most all ash in between burnings. Gonna give your method a try as it just makes sense.

Just had a level 2 inspection done by a reputable company on my fireplace for annual cleaning and because I was concerned about some cracking so I had the whole thing inspected. They said it is safe to use but does not have much life left in it, maybe 3-4 years of average use. It does not operate as intended but is quite useful for aesthetic purposes. It is the original and the house was built in 1986. The blower is louder than my TV and really doesn't push any air. I have two options, flue 100% open or 100% closed (two position lever). If I stack wood on the grate, the fire roars like a fan is underneath it and burns extremely fast. If I manually hold the flue lever in the middle position or half closed, the fire drops down to a more normal burn, but then smoke begins to come out of the blower vents. if I don't use a grate, the fire burns with a lot less intensity but does not burn completely or smolders for a long time at the end. According to the inspectors, the floor of the unit is all cracked up, but still solid. As long as there is no bounce or softness, they said it's perfectly safe. All side liners are still in good condition. The flue is clean and no problems. A little rust at the top but no leaks. I specifically asked and they looked, but they could not tell who the manufacturer of the unit was. So, my question, what do you think my best options are? They suggested a complete replacement with a new more efficient unit (in the range of $7000) but I think there has to be more of a middle ground. If I do the replacement route, I have no problem going with a good efficient unit, but if I can just replace a few pieces and stretch this one out, and have it operate as intended (provide a little heat) than I would be happy with that too. Can the blower motors be replaced with any generic motors? Why does is burn so fast? Any clue how to track down the model or manufacturer to get new doors and screen, they work but are beat up and ugly. Click to Enlarge 56.32Â KB Click to Enlarge 49.51Â KB Click to Enlarge 43.56Â KB Edit: Note that the intensity of the fire is unchanged if I have the blower running or not. So the blower is not fanning the fire.

stinky green slime

Just a question to clarify, does this apply to temporary objects as well as permanently installed. My experience with those nets and how this one appears, you can remove it at will (it just slides into the hole). If it was bonded, then that alone would make it permanent right? Or would the hole it slides into be grounded?

then falls in

an agent will

Ahh accordion, area makes sense in that regard. tks I do. I change my filter every month that I remember It might be 6 months before I remember but I change it every one!

Defiantly moles. I'll try the scissor traps. Maybe the reason my neighbors say they stink is because they only attended them once a week or such, unlike your suggestion. As for the food source, very true. But what I was told, it would be a waste of time getting rid of the grubs as I also have a lot of worms in my yard, moles other favorite food. I did recently treat for grubs though justincase so we shall see. Boxwood - The first sentence I saw when I looked up boxwood - "There are over 70 different species of boxwood....." LOL got some reading to do I guess. Thanks for the tips. Keep em coming.

OK, been trying to get my lawn back in shape for the last two years ever since the renters let to go to heck. But now I'm having two problems that I could use some help with. Neighbors (renters) who don't care. Their lawn is nothing but crab grass and weeds. They only cut it when the city warns them it seems. No matter how hard I try (I've extended weed and crag grass killer aswell as seeding) into their lawn to try and create a buffer with no luck. So I'm thinking more of a physical barrier now. This is the front lawn and I don't want a 8ft tall privacy type barrier, just something to keep their weeds from my lawn. Like putting in a hedge row, maybe 3-4ft tall. Nice and dense with a rock or mulch bed. Any ideas? I can upload a photo later if needed. Few notes, I'm near the coast in Virginia Beach, Virginia. What I need in the hedge is something that is dense and remains year round. What I, rather the wife, would also like is maybe a little color but no droppings (like berries). If you can suggest a good hedge/shrub or whatever they are called, I would appreciate it. The other problem is moles. I've tried traps and stomping the tunnels down. My dog makes the problem worse by chasing it and digging holes all over trying to catch it. Do those sonic things really work? Anyone know of an effective method to kill or chase them off. There is so much on the internet, 10 people say X works then 10 people say it's junk.

I thought the tap rule stated - the one sitting closest to the tap is the one who has to get the drinks?

But would a 24" high efficiency filter have the same air flow as a 24" cheap-O that needs to be changed every month? I understand the layers create more surface space, but once one layer is clogged, isn't overall air flow reduced? When I talk to HVAC guys, they say unless you have a specific condition like allergies or asthma, the filters that cost $5 for a pack of 3 is all you need. Just change them every month.

But it's Sunday

stinky green slime