Darren

I don't know about Canada, but here in the US, table 403.3 of the IMC clearly defines the requirements for 'Required Outdoor Ventilation Air".

Bad post; Never mind

Can't we take a compliment? By the way, did you get thoses storms yesterday AM? My house got hit with lighting; lost my fax/scanner; coffee maker, garage door opener, am older 35 " TV (mine for watching the games), a 42" Plasma and a 32" HD. My wife was sitting at the kitchen counter whn it hit; the sparks came shooting out of the now burnt GFCI. Lost cable, phone and internet

In New Jersey, it was inserted in the 2006 IRC M2002.5 Boiler Low water cutoff. All steam and hot water boilers shall be protected with a low water cutoff control..... Boy, that Neal is on top of everything!!

Is the landing sloped towards the house? Even with a cover, a driving rain will get water onto the landing; if it's not sloped properly, it's gonna run towards the house.

Scott; House was re-done 2 years ago. I'm told the front was brick and they went right over it. Also missed the kick-out above the front entry. Click to Enlarge 52.64 KB

Yesterday's inspection proved there really are idiots out there. Here's a shot from inside the house looking out the window; I asked my client "how's rainwater gonna drain?" Click to Enlarge 49.42 KB

"Yeah, I do. I say it's good for heating the basement" About 5 years ago I attended a seminar in NY. The speaker stated the steam pipes located near the boiler should be insulated because, and I quote 'Steam will condense (cool down and turn to water) 5 times faster in un-insulated pipes.'

Just curious Neal, Do you say anything about the un-insulated pipes?

I would like to thank everyone for their responses and opinions. When something is un-familiar, it’s good to know you guys are around. Here’s a little background on this inspection. The house is located in Bernardsville, Original construction about 1960. Completely renovated in 1990. The seller bought it about 18 months ago and his inspector requested further review, that’s where the two thumbs up came from. Another buyer had it inspected about a month ago but backed out for unknown reasons (maybe something to do with the roof?) The buyer just sold a horse farm in Bedminster; she just went thru replacing wood shakes on her house several years ago and knows a wood roofer. I asked her to keep me posted on what his opinion is. To answer some questions; No copper ridge; Yes, plywood sheathing with inadequate attic vents (only 3 gable vents & 1 gable fan). In 2005, another addition (2nd fl rear upper dormer) was added. They left the outline of the roof with about a half-foot wide of shingles. This area slopes down to a wall and stops; during the inspection I found the inside corner trim rotted out. Someone tried caulking, probably after some water entry into the bathroom below. Very poor design or some really bad on site decisions. Click to Enlarge 29.96 KB From the patio looking up... Click to Enlarge 28.54 KB From a 2nd floor window looking down.

https://www.inspectorsjournal.com/forum ... IC_ID=9020 Here's a supplement to the IRC deck attachments.

In NJ it's R502.2.2

I don't get to see a lot of wood roofs; here's one I did today. Everyone involved in this transaction stated the roof was inspected and given two thumbs up on lasting another 20 years (it's currently 19 years old) I told my client there are problems; worn, curled, damaged and missing materials. I also said it looks like it was never maintained and she should have a roofer who deals with wood roofs come out to evaluate it. I'm thiniking it's pretty bad; what do you guys say? Click to Enlarge 63.78 KB Click to Enlarge 69.23 KB Click to Enlarge 62.4 KB

Scroll down to number 9 (Enclosures) Download Attachment: Simpson_DuraVent_instructions.pdf 273.06 KB

In my NJ experience, no code official has ever required that for an air conditioning condenser. Regarding M1308.3, outdoor "mechanical systems" has always referred to package units. For NJ, read Chapter 14, Heating and Cooling Equipment. M1401.4 Exterior installations makes no mention of the 3" above the ground. M1403.2, under Heat Pump Equipment, states "the outdoor unit of a heat pump shall be raised at least 3" above the ground to permit free drainage of defrost water". Funny, In my NJ experience, MOST code officials hardly ever required weep holes & flashing in bricks; does that make it OK? Where does it say M1308.3 is referring to a packaged unit? Are we to assume that? Chapter 13 is General Mechanical Requirements.- M1308.1 refers to drilling and notching; is that for a packaged unit also? Like I said, it depends on how you read the code book.

I guess it depends on how you read the code book. This is my take on it: A condenser is a mechanical system. In NJ 2006 IRC M1308.3 Foundations and supports, Foundations and supports for outdoor mechanical systems shall be raised at least 3 inches (76mm) above the finished grade, and shall also conform to the manufactures installation instructions. So, even if the manufacture doesn't say it needs to be elevated, the word AND after 'finished grade' tells me it's required.

I might tell my client to call the local AHJ and/or manufacture to determine if it was designed (the roof and the attachment) for snow drift.

The pad should be elevated 3 inches above grade; I don't see it done too often.

Way back in the 70's a British group called Gentle Giant came out with "Playing The Fool Live". I can't find anything video from that album but here's a song I did find. Simple R & R http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pYOkIbyc ... PL&index=3

This question was asked on the ASHI website last year. The SDS screw is designed for deck ledger attachments. This is the reply from Simpson: Hello Darren, On behalf of Simpson I’d like to thank you for attending the seminars. As far as your question replacing 16d nails or any other size nail with SDS screws would not be advisable. First place the hole size in the connector would not be large enough for an SDS screw. Simpson does not stand behind products that have been modified, i.e. drilling the holes larger to fit SDS screws. George Wienholz, Simpson Strong Tie Co., Inc. Phone: 925.560.9207

I had a soil engineer on a job one time tell me there is no need to compact the stone we were installing under a slab. I gave him my 'what the f' look and continued with the compaction. The next project I had a different soils guy say the same thing when we dumped 3/4 clean in an over excavated footing.

John, Read the 3rd paragraph from the bottom on the 2nd link in my post.

John; These may help explain: http://www.pmmag.com/Articles/Column/22 ... 32a8c0____ http://www.pmmag.com/Articles/Column/e1 ... 32a8c0____

Here's a nice slow one to learn... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kBQPkLuwy80

Actually, besides being parged, the bricks should be solid or grouted solid.