SWagar

I think it's because there are so many electrons in the same area they feel confined and are pissed off at each other. That is just mad electron sound, sorta like bees.

I think the lowest edge of the vent was 12 inches or so (maybe a little more) up from the drip edge. The ventilation needs to be up the roof far enough so that the air enters the attic space not the eave area. I also believe that at an Air Vent seminar/presentation the presenter told us straight up that it could be installed in such a way. I did read the install instructions, looks like they say it should only be installed at the edge. Seems to me that it shouldn't matter so long as the intake slot that is cut in the sheathing is as low as possible in the attic space. So if there is a little overhang having the edge vent up the roof a bit should not be a big problem.

Here is a link to the Air Vent product I was talking about. Air Vents's Edge Vent http://www.airvent.com/professional/pro ... edge.shtml

Paul, That's an Air Vent product. I've seen it installed in a new home and saw it at one of Air Vent's presentations. It's not drip edge, it's installed on the top (covering side) of the roof about 1-2 feet up from the edge and beyond the eave/sofit area. It works like ridge vent except it's an intake.

I can't think of a way for air to get in to the water lines without some sort of leak. Even then, the water is under pressure and would leak out long before air would get in. Does your plumbing system have an expansion tank installed? If you have an expansion tank that is full of air instead of water, the air may be coming from there. Could the TPR valve on the water heater be discharging or damaged? This is kind of a WAG.

That looks like a double sink, it would only really need one trap, which would make the install cleaner. Did you mention the lack of a high loop in the dishwasher drain to the disposal??

Well, that was very thoughtful of the HVAC tech to help the home owner out that way. [:-censore

Thank you for that. My gut reaction was to say it did not give proper protection, but I thought I'd better ask to be sure!

What ??? Can't you read my mind ? Photo posted.

Doh! Looks like there was no vent pipe installed in this flashing. I always look down in these guys, sometimes I can see insulation. This time I saw something I could not explain from the roof. Inside the very small attic (no pics) the bathroom exhaust fan was attached to this flashing. Talk about a double whammy! I think I may have laughed a little too loud, because they heard me through the access hole. Another day, another chuckle !! Click to Enlarge 92.54 KB

Does a sliding glass door, like the kind one finds leading to an exterior patio or deck, qualify as proper fire protection between the house and garage ? I think the owner of today's house must have really liked the look of his garage!

Paul, Where is this house? I'm by W Main almost everyday. Does it have an RE sign ?

Moot , mute that one really gets me ! I will admit that I enjoyed most of Walter's comments. I think most of them fell on deaf ears. Oh well, you can lead an Inspector to the dictionary but you can't make him use it.

We have not had a good rant in a while so I thought I’d throw one in. First off let me say, I’m no grammarian and I don’t play one on TV but there are a few (way too often) misused words that bug me! Just because they sound alike does not mean one can use them interchangeably! Misuse of these sound-alike words will, in my opinion, make the writer appear less intelligent than he otherwise would. I know I’m guilty of comma crimes but correct word choice is an easy one to rectify. Here is the short list of those words that, when misused, make me cringe. Your vs You’re Your: A possessive form of you. "I like your flashlight", she said. You’re: An abbreviated form of “you areâ€

How much is the rent ? I'll send the info to my Mother-in-Law. I might even pay for her air fare[:-slaphap[:-taped]

In the code there are certain requirements for 20Amp circuits: kitchen, bathrooms and laundry come to mind. In these circuits obviously 12AWG would be needed. But anywhere else that a 15Amp circuit is allowed so should 14AWG copper. Does the AHJ require all 20 Amp circuits in the house or just 12 AWG on 15 Amp breakers?

Mark, Are you saying that the AHJ won't allow 14 AWG even in lighting circuits? That seems odd !?

It might just be a death trap or Santa Claus !!!

I don't think I get what you are saying. But, if you are saying there is a requirement that the gap over hardscape is exactly 2 inches. That is not the case.

Thanks for the info... I think I typed before I thunk. I was thinking about the Brown Recluse not being up here in the PNW.

This afternoon I had the great pleasure of attending a discussion group organized by the MVMA Masonry Veneer Manufactures Association, Owens Corning and Pumalite (a local distributor). The MVMA is new trade organization that is attempting to set some standards for the installation of Masonry Veneer, aka Faux stone. One of the many things that came out of that meeting was their installation standards that were introduced in Jan 2009. Their goal is to first create an ASTM standard and then get the installation standards (or part thereof) codified. That should be a few years before that will happen. These standards are very close to the Owens Corning Best Practice Guide but are now intended for all manuacturers. Here is a link to the document .... http://www.masonryveneer.org/pdf/mvma030909.pdf Happy reading. From my perspective, this is a great thing! I can now point to some industry wide standard not just OCs Best Practice Guide. This helps when I can't figure out who made the stone I'm looking at.

I am under the impression that we do not have the Hobo Spider here in Oregon .... Am I wrong ?

Well from that description, sounds like the drain line is pitched incorrectly and is holding water. When another fixture empties water into the system, air or water pressure is forcing the trapped water back up into the sink. But this could also imply that there is a lack of venting all though the house. How well did this sink drain? Do you do a sink overflow drain test and then empty a full sink full all at once ? Maybe, the drain line is marginally or even correctly pitched and has built up gook which could be causing it to hold water. Just a thought. Added later... It could also be that the main drain is clogged or occluded so that water backs up in the entire drain system and the bathroom sink is the point of relief. I think it's now PLUMBER o'clock !!

It is a little hard to tell from your photos whats what. But It sounds to me like the main bathroom sink is not vented or the vent is clogged. How much water came back into the sink, a sink full or a trap full? If there is only a trap's worth of water in the sink. Air pressure may be forcing the water in the trap back up into the sink. If there is more than that, I'd suspect that the drain line is also pitched toward the trap instead of away from it. Do you have any more photos? Where is the sink drain line in the wide view photo?

I'd be afraid that those shingles would give be vertigo and I'd fall off the roof.... or maybe just puke off the edge. I have had a talk discussion with my go to roofer about this type of defect. He basically said that it is a manufacturing defect, citing the same reasons Scott stated above, but that there is not enough evidence to suggest that they will fail early.