RobC

AH! I See[:-bigeyes] The operative word here is air shutter So if you have soot, it's indicative of insufficient air and the air shutters need to be adjusted open slightly....etc. Great information, Thanks to all who participated.

From my perspective, and I may be wrong on this one, I see a quality concrete tile roof with a flat roof (less than 2:12) attached to it. My concerns would be the flashing at the junction and the direction the membrane has been installed. The illustration below depicts the correct orientation. Download Attachment: ModifiedBitumenLap_M.JPG 102.76 KB I'll guess to say that it's not selvage (rolled roofing) by the evidence of the black line at the lap. I suspect it's been torched and the bleed is indicative of correct torching technique. I'm thinking this roof is not attached to the decking and is either slipping OR It was installed over a recently rained on decking and has now trapped moisture that is causing this blistering. I agree with your call, there is more going on here than meets the eye. What's under this roof and is it vented?

Mike, Isn't the condensate trap installed backwards in the photo? Download Attachment: UNICO.jpg 72.08 KB

Brian, As you know, moving warm air over an evaporator coil will condense the air, thus the condensate pan and drain line etc. Once apon a time, when a Mr. Carrier was designing AC's he consulted two groups, the marketers and the engineers. He made a choice to move warm air over his coil at the marketers designs because it was more economical. Short story, moving air slowly over the coil (removes more moisture) is more expensive but has the endorsement of proper engineering practices. Unico has literally developed a whole new industry, yes industry, to circumvent government restrictions on claims they now can make. Another long story. The price will shock you as well at its performance.

Hi Pete, I somewhat envey you at building your own home that includes a high pressure ventilation system. I know of one excellent company that I'm comfortable with, The UNICO System. www.unicosystem.com As a contractor, I have attended their last workshop in Canada, they will offer installers workshop at their St.Louis plant at a cost of $300.00 per weekend. It's a most excellent product WHEN INSTALLED BY TRAINED CONTRACTORS. If you wish to discuss this, you can PM me or do it here...your choice. I implore you to research it before you implement it into your home design.

Rob, Now that you've put that in print, it could very well be. How do they get natural gas to burn red and orange? UMMMM...[:-hot]

Maybe the article I posted earlier would answer ALL your questions, just maybe, I don't know............well maybe .........well how about checking it out .....maybe. http://www.copper.org/resources/propert ... green.html Not suffering from attention defecit deprevation ...or maybe

Although some guys will argue it's 9 no matter what. It's always good to get a second opinion and what a better place. Thanks Mike.

Donald, We have lots of vinyl here and I've installed my share of it along with the aluminum stuff...a long time ago. So here is 1.5 cents worth if you want. A weather barrier is paramount and mandatory in all siding application regardless of material. If you suspect it's missing, look under the corners as they are hollow and you can get a good view of the sheathing and the barrier. The next thing I notice is the eveness of the installation. Is the siding 'relaxed' or has it been nailed to prevent expansion and contracion? If you suspect something is amiss, try moving the siding back and forth by inserting an awl or finishing nail into the drainage holes (every other lap). You shouldn't have to force a 12' piece to move it. If you study a length you'll notice notches at both ends, those are the overlaps and a movement of 3/8"-1/2" per 12' is normal. Something else to watch out for, restricting the natural movement of the material, not to mention a possible water entry point. Download Attachment: VinylSiding_M.jpg 51.13 KB I could write all day but those are the big ones, the macro view. The micro view will deal with details, that I wouldn't spend the time to memorize. I would simply ask the question "Will this keep water out of the structure?" If you're not comfortalbe then I'd default to the instructions. I find applicators seldom follow textbooks anyway. Good Luck with your inspection. BTW vinyl has become expensive here, we also use it for fencing, decking, and railings.

It didn't look like the logs had been disturbed, and the glass had just been cleaned. That's a good point because from my understanding they are certified with a particular log arrangement and to alter the design would decertify the appliance. He told me he uses it every day to keep the main floor warm hence the reason for the soot. So why would he have it shut off during a time of heating? It's suspect to me and my reason for service. I was curious to know if any of you out there might have run into this problem in the past.

Gerry, We were discussing this earlier regarding introduction of moisture into the attic space and how that issue has been forgotten by the HVAC people. Brian, The fireplace was turned off (gas), I didn't get a chance to test it. I suggested that if he didn't like my recommendation he should write a letter of warranty to the buyer. I think that got the point across. Has anybody else seen this condition, I'd be interested in hearing from you. Thanks

Thanks for the info Gerry, Got a call from the seller and with permission from my client, I informed him the soot on the siding and fascia was of concern and the fireplace should be inspected ..further evaluation etc. I generally don't see discoloration from direct vented gas fireplaces. The guy (seller) is an HVAC student and tried to convince me because of incomplete combustion, yellow flame etc., it was acceptable to see this. I suspect a gas adjustment or a vent problem. Any other suggestions?

Here is a bit of information on the process. http://www.copper.org/resources/propert ... green.html

Download Attachment: FireplaceGasVent_M.jpg 35.92 KB It's a direct vented, zero clearance gas fireplace. Any thoughts?

Aaron, I guess I don't have to tell you that seeing daylight is not a good thing. And the added insult of patching a ridge with roofing mastic on a slate roof is in my opinion, sacrilegious. Roofing mastic is considered a temporary fix at best, I advise my clients to monitor those areas or make the appropriate repairs to avoid leakage. Does the gap you are referring to, run along the entire ridge? Does the roof have venting, as in roof vents, gable vents or turbines etc.? If the roof doesn't have venting, other than eaves, it may be a misguided attempt at doing a ridge vent. Regardless, the gap at the ridge is incorrect on any roofing material and needs to get fixed. Along with the recommendation I would include the provision of vents if required, just to cover yourself. Remember, Careful on recommending fixes, you could own the results and consequences. A side note: Do you have a photo?

Would you have any other photos? A turntable...........Never seen the beat of it[:-hypnotized]

Terry, It's really tough to tell without the 3D advantage. I'd like to know what the large wheel behind the sprocket is made of. That would help a bit. OK! David, How about a clue?

Looking at this again, There is an angle in the background and a wheel riding on top of it to the left. I can't see enough room for a power converter unless there is an excavation behind. The unit must be related to this wheel that's attached to ??? a door a material handling rack And then, there's those pesky leaves that indicate the unit maybe outdoors. Great puzzle![:-glasses]

OK! I like puzzles There's an electric motor hooked up to a chain. Behind the large sprocket is what appears to be a transmission like transfer case or torque converter. (not a mechanic, may have the terminology wrong) The assembly is hinged to allow movement on start up. From here it's anybody's guess. I'll say it powers: a dumb waiter a small elevator a hydrolic power converter not an escalator OR an ant trap

I've just had word from the SCO/AHJ that the installation is acceptable as shown. Apparently, they have an inducer fan built in to create enough pressure to allow horizontal venting. It still leaves the issue of moisture entry into the soffit area that would make me uncomfortable. I'd like to see a directional hood attached to 'direct' the gases away from the structure. Guess, that'll come in a few years when the failures start to show up. [:-indifferent]

Brainded is the incorrect term here, what I meant was stranded. Did the wire have any markings on it and do you have a picture of it?

Not necessarily the wire itself but the installation is questionable. If I had to guess at the kind of wire, I'd say it was braided extension cord wire.

Here is the =000000000015"]Reznor installation manual page Here is the Reznor manual for =000000000057&mod_files[currpos]=000000000015"]POWER VENTING They recommend to drill the C' vent elbow to allow for drainage. Silicone C' vent joints. Pitch downward for condensate drainage. Check out the vent cap and the distance from the wall. [:-boggled]

Mike it's kind of like fishing I wonder who's going to ask the question? Not the old guys, that's for sure.[:-jump]