RobC

Have a look and tell me what you see The level is 6' and the rise was 4" Download Attachment: RoofingVulnerable1_M.jpg 126.77 KB Download Attachment: RoofingVulnerable2_M.jpg 121.05 KB Download Attachment: RoofingVulnerable3_M.jpg 174.19 KB Anything else? I've battened down the hatches, I think this is going to be a rough ride (sail).

I have to agree with Mike However, What he really means is 'expanded' lath and not 'extruded'. Anyway, You mentioned, "I was at the house today and I saw very small areas where there is visible wire mesh." AND that has me worried. Visible wire mesh or lath is not a good thing. There's so much to a stucco inspection that I now tread VERY carefully Stucco application as we speak is unregulated, and the workmanship questionable at best. A government study has determined that 15% of all applications in the province of Alberta is compliant. And that leaves 85% with expected failures in the next 3-5 years. Here is how I start my stucco inspection. I walk to the wall and like an Evangelical born again contractor I place my hand on the wall. You need to FEEL the wall and let it talk to you. Feel the texture and most importantly the density. Is it soft? Is it hart? Is it crumbly? That will tell you a lot about the mix design. And what to expect for the rest of the application. "Can anyone suggest some sites to find more info?" NO What I would suggest is to contact someone like Imasco Minerals Inc. and tag along with an inspector for a day. The experience is invaluable. Don't forget to buy him lunch. Good Luck.

I see you've given yourself additional work by cutting the sub floor beyond the joist...Oh well More importantly (than wearing shoes[]) try to keep your circular saw blade 'slightly' deeper than the material you're cutting, especially in renovation work. I see you've cut the flex pipe, that could have been a drain line or worse a live conductor. Renovation work can be dangerous even in your own home. If you asked me how I would finish this little project, it would go like this. Add a line clean out for each vanity basin. I know, it may not be code in your area but it sure makes it easier to auger. It's a convenience thing. Fix the heat duct. Keep in mind that you are over an unconditioned space and over a garage. Here, we are concerned with gas proofing, you on the other hand are concerned with fire proofing. Something I've never been able to understand, death by fire is OK here but not by carbon monoxide. Ensure the duct/heating system is separate from the garage area. As unconventional as it maybe I would install my double vanity without fixing the floor. That would allow just enough air circulation to prevent things from freezing. I would complete the ducting to the toe kick register, if you don't, the inside of your vanity cabinet will be a mini oven. If you only have one GFI outlet, now would be a good time to add another. Don't forget the insulation and vapor barrier (VDR). I like to have my water lines inside the heated space. You might think about running yours under the toe kick. After all that, you're going to tell me your wife wants two pedestal basins.. in which case forget the above Gordon, Don't beat yourself up over a small thing like calling a flexible metal duct a dryer vent. That's why we're here to learn. I've had to use this pipe a few times myself to get around tight corners on difficult renovation projects. Yes, I know...but it's better than nothing. Good Luck

Gary,[:-graduat I'm speechless And I've always thought of myself as fastidious.

Gordon, I suspect what you meant to say was that a flexible metal pipe was attached to the heat distribution system and not a dryer vent. Your question is very technical in nature and without more information would be difficult to give a proper answer. I see insulation, Would this bathroom be located over an unheated space, like a garage. Merely blowing heat in a space is not enough, like blowing into a plastic bag. You need a return or a way to allow for air circulation. More photos would help.

Of the two choices that are available in my area I would choose this one. http://www.stonetile.com/

Chris, You're kidding Right!

AND I would add to Jim' post that the TrusJoists are met for dry application. In this constantly wet enviroment they could be compromised over time and fail. 150 wet crawls! Now that's something to be proud of.

Chris, What I see here is a two fold problem. 1. Moisture 2. Building Science Design To repeat what everyone has said because it's most IMPORTANT. Get rid of the H2O. If you have a round hole in the ground it's called a well. It's supposed to have water If it's square it's called a basement/crawlspace and it's met to be DRY. I'd say almost everyone here can help you with that. Here is something you may wish to add to your design if you so desire. Download Attachment: FdnSeepageTroughs_M.JPG 93 KB Adding leaders is a good idea providing they are effective. Notice the drainage tile around the perimeter of the footing. That may be something to consider if conditions demand it. On the bigger picture. Download Attachment: Swales_M.JPG 138.04 KB There is more but you get the idea. Now comes the difficult part of the remedial process and something I would not attempt to solve without further information. Here's a GREAT resource from my library. Builder's Guide to Cold Climates Details for design and construction by Joseph Lstiburek And lastly, I would drive around the hood and check out crawls that are working and copy their designs - no cost. Now, if it's a high water problem .......and you really want to see snow, have I got a deal for you.

Your'e picture is not coming through..on my end anyhow.

NO "They > THEY- Who's THEY said if the insulation is faced, that the faced insulation needs to be cut to allow moisture to pass." Most accurate statement - the VAPOUR will migrate toward the cold side, cause that's the way it is, and condense at the dew point in the wall. As it condenses it will freeze further down the exterior envelope and thereby reduce the insulative qualities of the insulation and thereby move the dew point closer to the warm side and thereby the process continues until the dew point is inside the wall and thereby causing ice on your wall and thereby ............. You get the point.[:-graduat So why is allowing vapour to travel into a cold wall a good thing? I would recommend the assistance of a home inspector or building science professional to evaluate this installation and explain in detail the repercussion of all this. It warms my heart to know the drywallers have taken the care to protect the fibreglass tub. AND I'm sure the 'mudders' will equally excercise the same due care and deligence in protecting it. Would somebody pick up that 2 by with the nails in it. The reason I'm now inspecting.

Also, before I forget See if you can get some heat added behind the tub. As this installation is on an outside corner wall, north wall at that, you'll find your water will cool rapidly without some heat source under the tub. And don't forget the insulation.....

One more thing, or is that possible? I see the stub wall is resting on the floor instead of going through the floor and being supported underneath with blocking etc. The way the wall is framed doesn't look too stable from where I am. Check out the wall for stiffness this aft. I wouldn't buy the idea that the vanity will tie things together as there is no blocking in the wall to accommodate for that, unless it was added after the pic was taken...doubt that! Let us know how you make out and send more photos. AND while we are on the topic of blocking, how about towel bars, curtain rods..... Now U know why it takes me forever to do an inspection. Good luck this aft.

Rusty, As a general rule, 90's are not allowed in drain applications. They are ok in vent but not drain. You could suggest two 45's and that would be much better (less chance of blockage) than 90's. I would suggest any good plumber should know that. As to the line clean out, it would be beneficial as a matter of convenience and good practice regardless of code. Furthermore the vapour barrier should be CONTINIOUS, that means the stub wall has to be removed and a proper 6 mill vapour barrier rated material installed at that location. I don't mean regular poly, it has to be rated as vapour barrier (without the U of course if your'e south of the border [:-bouncy]) OOPS, my mistake, I thought the window was block. Regardless, you should check for shims and insulation the full thickness of the 2X. How have they done the weather barrier around the window? Rusty, I don't see a continuous barrier at the right partition. Have they not provided for that and at the ceilings too?

Great little tool. Something you wouldn't want to leave behind. When I'm in the furnace room I usually punch the hole while my client is upstairs working the stat. I have never had any problems. I always use the furnace cleaners plugs if they are available or access the plenum through the vibration collar.

Rusty, I believe your'e in a heating climate. If so, The insulation as installed is completely incorrect. ESPECIALLY IN A BATHROOM. The gable insulation orientation is inconsistent with the walls. The vapour barrier should run behind the tub down to the floor and sealed with acoustical sealant ON THE WARM WINTER SIDE. Furthermore, the vanity drain needs a line CO and the 90's replaced with two 45's (one street, one hub). They got the hot on the correct side, assuming red is HOT. The window is incorrectly installed. Go to the window and remove the insulation around the jamb. Have they? Insulated the window the full 2X. Shimmed the window adequately (glass blocks are heavy) AND where is the weather barrier? It's time to put on the steel toed boots, this will come back to haunt you later on. ONE MORE THING, Where is the protective cover for the tub? I better stop.

If you check the data plate on any gas burning appliance or others, you'll note something called bonnet temperature or bon temp. The bonnet is really the location immediately downstream of the exchanger. SO, For any meaningful temperature discussions one should measure at the bonnet or plenum. That's why I need to sharpen my awl. Don't forget to carry 'band aids' (little squares of aluminum duct tape). Ps. Don't assume the general temp difference is 50-80 as they all differ.

Randy, I use the same software reporting system and I'd say don't spend any money. You have all the stuff you need right at your fingertips. Click on Report Sections>General Information>PHOTO FRAMES. You have a choice of one or two per page with captions. If you want four (4) per page simply make a new template and save it as that. You can also click AutoShapes>Callouts and add extra comments. I imbed lots of photos and illustrations using this method. I use the text wrapping option (Square) which gives me a photo amidst the paragraphs that are unrelated to the subject and saves space. My preference is to imbed the photos right next to the observation paragraph, this way the client can reference the defect right away. As previously mentioned check out Powertoys for the image resizer-indispensable. Sorry about the tardiness That's what happens when you miss a month and only click on the active topics button.

Sorry about the focus, don't know what happened? Download Attachment: ElectK&TNScrew_M.JPG 34.75 KB Download Attachment: ElectK&TNScrew1_M.JPG 55.28 KB

Welcome to the board, Joe Removing 'distribution' covers is a must. Not doing it, is a disservice to your client and a greater liability issue for yourself if you don't. I like to test GFI outlets with the button on my three prong tester. I've read somewhere that it's a more accurate or complete test, something I couldn't explain and could very well be misinformed but I do it anyways. Fuse panels are a rarety here (Calgary) as they are being replaced for insurance and lifestyle reasons. I don't operate or reset tripped circuit breakers (generally). Last week my curiosity got the best part of me and when I reset a breaker it sparked and refused to reset. The seller called me a few days ago on another matter he was correcting and never mentioned that his house had burned down....thank god. NOW, comes the regional difference- Canadian combination panels are split up into two sections - the service section and the distribution section with two different panel cover(8 screws). The service portion is covered by a cover, I call a deadfront, usually on top, that covers the SEC and main disconnect breaker. It is protected on all sides so this cover is 'L' shaped with the bottom of the 'L' into the panel. This makes it very dangerous to reinstall as the tolerance is minimal between stuff and the chance for electrocution or loosing your eyesight is great. In the past, as a matter of course I used to remove this portion of the combination panel but no more.

I seldom find transition fittings and/or a mixture of different material in one system as the costs can be probihitive. The cement is costly and not a common item found with contractors. I've personally had to add PEX lines to PB with a 'transition fitting' and transitioned ABS drain lines to PVC as PVC is not readily available in my market. I have to agree that multiple changes of material within the same run or system would imply an amateur installation and one to be cautious of. Quote: "If you see an ABS to PVC cement transition during the course of a normal home inspection, chances are it's incorrect. " I'm not sure that it would be incorrect as such unless the overall installation was incorrect itself, but as for the joining of the two systems, it's my experience that the joint is as strong as the rest of the joints.

With the exception of some old PVC and really old copper and cast iron, ABS (residential) is used here exclusively without any major issues. BUT multi residential is another story. The material is NOT allowed to penetrate through a fire seperation wall as it can create its own fuel to burn. PVC is the preferred material for penetrations. Here is my number don't with ABS DONT use the stuff to drain second floor bathroom, laundry, etc. Water draining in ABS is noisy that insulation will not cure. I recommend cast iron be used between living spaces to minimize noise. ABS can be combined with PVC with transition cement, mainly used in renovation and seldom if never in new construction.

Wow! A Dual Exhaust- Direct vented- Clothes Dryer Download Attachment: AppliancesDryer_M.jpg 46.2 KB []

I get the sense from all of you that it's not the end of the world, and I agree. I have yet been able to record anything over 2ppm and as Jim stated, it's bad venting that kills. As I understand it, the realtors, sellers and most likely the neighbourhood by now, know about this furnace and not to use it. I didn't and it won't get reported to the gas Co. either.

You have found this Download Attachment: HeatingCrackedHeatExchanger_L.jpg 41.86 KB Do you report it- to the Gas Company? to the Sellers OR simply include it in your report, inform your clients and go home. Then who is responsible if something happens? I know an HVAC contractor would red tag it on the spot. Does the Home Inspector have a greater responsibility beyond his clients in this case? What does everybody think?