RobC

What you are looking at is a garden variety drip flashing.

You bet It looks and operates like the old fashion switches that we all like to recommend upgrading. The fan runs 24/7 so I upgraded to a 240volt direct current motor to save on electricity. They also come in black.

You would have to remove the cover to know for sure. One of the switch in the photo is 240 volt, Can you tell the difference? Download Attachment: Picture 001 (Medium).jpg 45.06 KB We don't have electric water heater here but if we did I'd insist in having a disconnect switch nearby to service it safely or have a means of shutting it down in the event of an emergency.

Wouldn't the manufacturer's instructions determine that? The 4" rule applies here also for both wall and ceiling distance to a maximum of 20" from the ceiling. Tests have shown that smoke will roll in corners and placing them in the 'dead' zone won't activate them. Same applies at the top of a cathedral ceiling for instance. When I see them inside bedrooms, I make sure they're interlocked with the outside ones. BTW You can charge more money if you refer to them as Smoke Alarms. [:-graduat

A pinless will only read the first 3/4" max. If I had the assignment I'd use my Protimeter Surveymaster with the wall probes and do a visual with a boroscope.

AAli, I'm going for a little nappy cuz I've had a really looong week and when I come back I'd like you to change your question around. Think about it

The word grow op comes to mind.

The "T" will extend the piping horizontal to the water heater closet for the finial connection. The 'T' is not so much the concern as the vent connector running horizontally. 1/4":foot is the rule for slope

Unprotected wiring is allowed to run in attic spaces if the distance between the top and bottom cord of a truss is less than 1m (39.4 in), otherwise a running board is required to protect the loomex or run along the bottom chord. I don't see ceiling furring strips much anymore, the wallboard is usually screwed directly to the truss. In any event, you need 1 1/4" coverage from backside of finish to comply. Check out Home Depot and pick up a copy of the Electrical Code Simplified for Quebec. My reference is on page 57.

London, Ontario, Canada $475,000 Is that the selling price or the monthly operating cost?

The boiler, primary, secondary loops and zones were installed by my genius radiant guy. I installed the domestic tubing, irrigation and the JoistTrak. Incidentally, I opted for a system feeder to avoid paying the yearly backflow preventer inspection fee. There is no make up valve, double check valve or pressure reducer to the system.

I'm thinking the priority valve is required because the unit can't do both demands at the same time. So it needs something to tell it to do domestic for a given time and then switch to radiant and vice versa. Priorities change according to the application For instance, residential domestic is always first, we want to ensure enough hot water for morning showers etc. The boiler should recognize the importance of showers over radiant or fan/coil demands so we set the 'priority' accordingly and give it a certain weight so the boiler won't do domestic all day long and neglect the radiant portion of its work load. But your place of business might be different. If you have overhead garage doors opening and closing all day long then you would prioritize the fan/coil as your main call for heat. The domestic would in this case be very low on the list, workers will just have to wash their hands in cold water but we can't afford to freeze the bay. Here is a photo of my boiler room before drywall. Download Attachment: MechRoom (Medium).jpg 78.45 KB Download Attachment: MechRoom2 (Medium).jpg 82.66 KB Download Attachment: MechRoomFanCoil (Medium).jpg 48.05 KB This is the radiant transfer plates for main floor tiles. Download Attachment: UponorJoistTrak1 (Medium).jpg 94.16 KB Download Attachment: UponorJoistTrakLoop (Medium).jpg 43.47 KB Download Attachment: UponorJoistTrakNInsulation (Medium).jpg 63.14 KB

I seldom see an expansion tank with an open domestic/radiant system. They are mostly found on closed loop systems around here. The priority valve is needed to set a priority on who gets hot water first and the length of time or weight of priority. For example, I have domestic as my first priority over radiant and fan/coil. However domestic over time looses it priority to radiant depending how I set up the 'weight' of priority. So yes, a priority valve is required to set up a system that must satisfy two different demand loads.

Often time it's not always about codes. I rely on this documentation for evaluating ledgers. http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/W34 ... N=70285302 The Canadian version: http://www.apawood.org/pdfs/managed/D34 ... N=70285302 Check out page three. My favorite page. http://www.apawood.org/level_b.cfm?cont ... _prog_main

Thanks Mike, Didn't forget about you, got distracted for a brief moment. I see it being used for practically everything but muffler repair.

I'll never look at another roll of Tuck tape the same way again. I sure hope the economy picks up for you guys down there, like real SOON. BTW, how much do you want for the lamp behind you? Ah...On second thought, never mind!

UH..........NO[:-bigeyes[:-crazy] I won't ask how you found that. LMAO

Does anybody have technical information on this product particularly in regard to its intended use? I'm looking for a compatibility research study from a recognized source.

How much of it was there? Do you have pictures?

The high-low grills work well if the appliance is adjacent to an inside wall such as a warehouse or room sufficiently large enough to draw from. If you are drawing cold outdoor air then a duct is needed, we call it a combustion air duct. A bit of history. As buildings became more energy efficient we soon realized we couldn’t rely on air leakage to supply our gas burning appliances. The problem was solved by providing a duct connected to the outdoors and terminating inside the furnace room usually attached to the side of the furnace cabinet. Here is the first generation hand insulated hard pipe combustion air duct. Download Attachment: HeatingFurnaceRm (Medium).jpg 45.4 KB It satisfied the appliances but made folks grumpy. Homeowners didn’t like all that cold air dumping in their basements so they stuffed the pipe with old clothing and insulation. A solution that seemed to work well was to place the end of the pipe in a 5gal plastic bucket. That would ‘trap’ the cold air and keep folks happy, the development of the termination boot was born. Needless to say we never patented the idea.[:-weepn] Fancy gizmos were also developed such as the interlocked motorized damper termination boot, but they soon fell out of favor for the cheaper and trouble free modified paint bucket idea. Whatever you recommend, you need to get outside air inside somehow.

What you need is an insulated duct with a termination boot like the one in the picture below. Download Attachment: HeatingFurnaceRm (Medium).JPG 51.21 KB

Would it be possible to 'pull' another pipe through the existing ABS? There are alternate repair methods that involve pulling a sock through the pipe, and injecting a hardener to form a patch on the inside of the pipe, which might be too cost prohibitive for your application. It's really difficult to offer an opinion without photos and detailed information.

That was my initial reaction, a rapper buys his buddy's mansion with the intention of renovating it on the back of the engineering firm. But the fact remains as inept as the firm appears they did identify 2.5M in repairs. I'm thinking the report would clear up a lot of misunderstanding. We always have to remember where we're getting our information.

If I understand this correctly. An engineering firm inspects a 4.1 M residence for $14,000.00 to do a 'walk around' and fails to check the heating system. [:-bigeyes And then they submit a cost estimate for window repair without counting the number of windows. [:-bigeyes And in describing his service, Mr. van Deusen states "They also make assumptions," [:-bigeyes What condition was the home in at the time of the inspection that would require 2.5M in repair? Would that be deferred maintenance? There are a lot of unanswered questions, I'd like to see the report first before passing judgment. It will be interesting to hear the judge's ruling.

I stopped waiting for them and bought Devwave's Picture Drop.