RobC

Are you sure its nails? Did you open up a seam to look behind the siding? It could be staples. The answer is nope.

Regular 3/4" plywood is the recommended sheathing for vinyl decking. There could be a compatibility issue with adhesives and OSB. http://www.duradek.com/_customelements/ ... 009web.pdf

There are numerous methods but this is the way I do it. Download Attachment: UponorJoistTrak1 (Medium).jpg 94.16 KB The foil back on the duct insulation reflects stray heat back to the floor. More insulation is installed underneath (not shown). Download Attachment: UponorJoistTrakNInsulation (Medium).jpg 63.16 KB What you have there is an unknown.

The important thing about frost free hydrants is to make sure they are installed correctly. They should slope slightly to drain fully. A beveled plastic shim is included in the package that should be placed behind the escutcheon. Without the shim and especially when installed on horizontal lap siding the hose bib won't drain properly and will freeze unless you drain the line at the isolation valve. What makes the faucet frost free is the location of the valve. It should be on the warm side of the wall. It's not uncommon to find them covered with insulation that places the valve on the cold side of the wall that could make them susceptible to freezing. It's surprising how many clients I get that don't understand how these things work, so I carry one in the van for demonstration purposes. Once they see it they get it right away. Acorn, We all miss stuff. Just the other day I missed a toilet paper holder. It's not reasonable to expect anyone to cover everything in a 3-4 hour visit especially if the item is covered over or not accessible.

Hi Mike, Would this be what you’re referring to? http://www.heatilator.com/downloads/brochures/NEVO.PDF Honestly, I’ve yet to see one in operation and how I know this, is because I’ve never seen the fancy wall switch until yesterday. After a trip to the big city, I was informed that the system has been around since 96’. Their price point made them less affordable and sales were slow initially until after some time when companies discovered that their service/warranty calls were reduced to practically nothing (.2%.). Companies decided to pass on the savings to make them more affordable. A major builder in town here is using the exclusively, so we’ll see more of them on the market as sales improve. This new technology is defined by some as ‘Intellifire Ignition System’. It incorporates a bunch of stuff that includes an intermittent pilot ignition (IPI) system hence the need for the special wall control. There is a pilot, but it is intermittent i.e. it ignites/proofs a flame rectification (bimetal probe) then lights the burner; it then shuts off when the fireplace is turned off to save energy. According to the tech guy, a natural gas pilot will burn between 1,200-1,700 BTU/hr which translates, in our market, to approximately $13.00/month. A second button can ignite the pilot to keep the fireplace warm in very cold weather. It maintains the appliance warm and prevents ice formation on the hood. The third fan button allows you to choose three speeds that will come on after a preset time of your setting. With this system there is no power requirement BUT you’ll need to rough in an 18/3 wire or a Cat 5 data cable for the special multifunction wall control. As you’ve mentioned batteries shouldn’t be left in the backup battery pack. I was told that it has to do with current flowing through the batteries that depletes and runs them down. There is a solenoid (?) on the second generation controls that disconnects the current and switches to battery backup when power is absent. So you can leave batteries in on the new models, not sure if there is a retrofit for the first generation ones. In a more temperate climate such as yours, heating might be satisfied with a few heaters here and there or a centrally located fireplace that might be on for a few weeks a year. If that works, I don’t have a problem with that although I’d like to see a thermostat for the fireplace. My fireplace ‘is an entertainment appliance’ comment was directed to bad basement developments that are missing heat sources and have substituted a fireplace to claim that the basement is heated. They’re considered an entertainment appliance and are not part of the heating system. Besides, why would you substitute a 60% efficient fireplace when you already have an 80%+ furnace present? You can imagine the conversation I have with Reelatours.

As stated above the batteries could be for the remote receiver inside the fireplace. I've only seen a few in my days, usually in higher end homes particularly in masters. But to answer your question, the fireplace doesn't require power for ignition. Instead it relies on the thermocouple generating a millivolt current when it sees heat. The control is wired back to a location of preference, usually a wall switch near the fireplace to turn it on or off. Sometimes, folks will replace the switch with a thermostat, either way is acceptable. A second switch usually directly under that switch controls the blower. Blowers are optional and can run around 200 dollars so folks tend to leave them out. I'd say 20% of the fireplaces I inspect have blowers, and 95% are pre wired for them. The blower is thermostatically controlled to come on when the fireplace reaches a certain temp and shut down accordingly similar to a house furnace. If you observed a fan inside the cabinet and it failed to come on then the following might apply: The wall switch is off or no power to the fan. The fan is malfunctioning. The fireplace didn't come up to temperature to activate the fan. I view them as an entertainment appliance not designed for heating.

It sounds like you’re missing a furnace filter cabinet. What you have is an unsupported filter that could collapse on or inside the blower not to mention return air bypassing it that could reduce furnace efficiency or worse clog a heat/cooling coil. I've yet to see tape as a filter cover instead, I see three different styles of cabinet gates: The ‘A’ shape slides up and down in a track and over the opening. Download Attachment: AFilter1.JPG 86.3 KB The ‘L’ shape uses screws to secure it in place, it slides right/left and you need a screwdriver to loosen them. Couldn't find a pic sorry. A ‘U’ shape that snaps over the filter opening. They need more patience to fiddle with to make them fit providing the tabs haven’t been damaged. Download Attachment: HeatingFurnaceRm2 (Medium).jpg 82.82 KB I’ll mention a missing gate if the cabinet is missing one otherwise the older open style ones don’t make the report. Cutting a slot in the return plenum doesn’t cut it; I’d call it out as a missing filter cabinet. If you ask me, this is what I would recommend, something I seldom see. Download Attachment: FilterCabinet1 (Medium).jpg 53.99 KB Download Attachment: FilterCabinet2 (Medium).jpg 56.92 KB

The outdoor 'thermostat' is called a thermistor, it doesn't call for heat, its function is to give a temperature reading to the boiler. It's not so much the aquastats that modulate the boiler but rather the signal it sends back to the boiler/board. The boiler processes the information and adjusts the gas valve accordingly. I have two, one for boiler control and one back to the wall thermostat that displays the outdoor temperature only.

Glad you alike it

Good point. It brings to mind Charlie Beck's rule: "It doesn't say what you think it says, nor what you remember it to have said, nor what you were told that it say, and certainly not what you want it to say, and if by chance you are its author, it doesn't say what you intended it to say. Then what does it say? It says what it says. So if you want to know what it says, stop trying to remember what it says, and don't ask anyone else. Go back and read it, and pay attention as though you were reading it for the first time." - Jim in Oregon Precisely, The manufacturers' installation instructions are clear. "3. Underlayment - On decks with a pitch of 4"........", you will apply roofing felt in accordance to building codes and our instructions. Further "APPLY drip edge flashing.......", you will apply the flashing this way. It doesn't say that flashing is RECOMMENDED. Then "What does it say?" It says what it says and infers that if you don't, we might use this to weasel our way out of a warranty claim, cause you didn't read and follow our instructions. nuf said

You might want to hold off on cooking that crow although I've got great 'Martha' approved recipes I've dined on myself. "Apply drip edges directly to the deck along the eaves and over the underlayment along the rakes." If this is indeed taken from their website/installation instructions then it would clearly indicate, to me anyway, that they require the application of drip edges and installed accordingly. I fail to see any other interpretation it clearly states to "APPLY DRIP............" there is no mention that drip edge is optional. So you've called them out and the builder/developer is pressing them to recant their requirement cause the builder IS the customer and ain't gonna spend more money than he has to and there is always other suppliers with less stringent requirements. Looks to me, you're the victim of supplier/customer politics. Speaking of Box of Rocks, Do you know how much rocks cost these days? And Besides it's a 'Bag a' Hammers' or rather a 'Sack a' Hammers' if you're down South. And that you're not.

If you want you can scroll mid way down the page http://www.ipexinc.com/Content/en_ca/2_ ... tem636.asp and take The System 636 solvent cementing refresher course. Then come back to your photo and ask yourself what's missing....particularly with regard to color. It applies to the water heater as well.

Page 8/16 "Insulated Concrete Forms (I.C.F.) These systems have no wood component and the foam has no nail holding capacity. As a result, Insulated Concrete Forms require furring strips of a minimum of 1¼ inches thick spaced 16 inches on center on the outside of the foam. Note these will need to be securely fastened to the concrete." No Cladding can be attached to plastic webs. Screws are recommended as they have better pull out resistance than nails. Oddly enough with ICF the need for a weather barrier is not required.

Dear Gnome, On Firefox 3.5.3 Just to let you know, the second tool bar is dark and barely visible. And On the posting form window, the bar is missing its maroon color with the exception of maybe 3/4" or so at the beginning to middle of the B in :Book Store.

http://www.bobparsons.me/video/186/pick ... takes.html

The idea of living inside an arsenic box has never appealed to me.

Agreed But the product is advertised as insulated siding along side the Energy Star logo. http://www.continentalsidingsystem.com/ ... elock.html In their VDO below, they claim a 5.25 R value with a 30% reduction in energy consumption. I would submit that the smallest part of the EPS is nowwhere close to the claimed R value. And yes, as an overall system the siding has 0 insulation value as stated above. http://www.continentalsidingsystem.com/ ... WP_inc.mp4 Toward the end, it's revealed that 29' sheets [:-bigeyes are used to eliminate joints. I'd have to question the wisdom of that idea; it might explain the need for a 2" J' mold as I suspect the movement could be as much as 1 1/4". I don't particularly like the misinformation and scare tactic this product is marketed under.

Providing the coffee table is explosion proof. Let me guess, the house was built in 19 freakin 81 []

Most definitely.

I'm not too happy about the way he's installed his corner or for that matter the profile he's used, however...... But the concern here is the siding having insufficient coverage by the J' mold. Judging by the photo, he hasn't followed the correct pitch and seems short at the top of the sheet on the first photo. The top square cut sheet appears flush to the outside edge of the corner mold. The second photo clearly shows a sheet not covering the one below as evidenced by the exposed lock. In the months ahead when the temperature drops the gaps will be more noticeable and there may be a concern that the sheet(s) may not slide back inside the J's. I would suggest you drive around the neighborhood and document others for a comparison. I seldom, if ever, see unvented vinyl soffit, Questions: Did he use the same soffit throughout the house? Is this a reno over ply soffit? Do we want to concern ourselves with the windows and doors?

Yes, I'm sure photos will generate even more discussion and perhaps identify more stuff you haven't considered.

Scott, Your concern is justified, if your siding is flush with the edge of the 2â€

If I understand this correctly, you're building EIFS cladding over a rain screen system and three months later, ONLY 6mm deep cracks [:-bigeyes have appeared at the perimeter of the plastic insulation. If your base/finish coats are 6mm thick then a 6 mil deep crack (1/4") would be considered a failure. If I had to guess, I'd blame thermal expansion and contraction of the underlying plastic insulation. Also, the 6mm x 6mm cracks in the cladding will expose the plastic insulation to sunlight and eventually destroy the board. In short, the cladding is 'toast' and the recommended plan would be to start over and do it right the second time. Although I've never liked the EIFS concept, perhaps you might consider second generation EIFS. Questions: Are the cracks of similar size around the building or do they differ in size from one elevation to another? Is a nog a furring strip?

It can tell you if a circulator is working by placing the disc at the center of the pump.

I think your approach is a systems approach, in that there are multiple efforts to restrict or stop moisture migration. The rubber is just another chink in the overall system approach. I think that's where it should go. I'm much more interested damproofing and capillary break techniques, as that's addressing the source instead of the symptom (water in the cold joint). In my perfect world, I'd backfill in lifts, alternating in sloped dumps of stone against the foundation, then dirt sloping the other eay, followed by stone, etc., until you have a "wall of stone" providing an air space outside the foundation wall. Stone under the slab almost goes without saying, and it's amazing how many times I see slabs without stone........ The washed aggregates will also have the added benefit or reducing hydraulic pressure on the wall. But as we all know that eventually fills up with silt and fails over time as with the perimeter drain line. Even though I've opted for a 'socked' line I expect it to fail but maybe over a longer period. Regardless, I've solved the pressure issue with the use of re bar. I'm thinking I have close to a mile of #4 in the walls. Let's just say that I've never hesitated parking an 8,000# skid steer adjacent to it. "labor-intensive techniques were simply the product of having lots of really cheap labor but not lots of ready cash." Sounds like my job site......[]