RobC

I don't have to read any further than this. What is Ozone? Ozone is a molecule composed of three atoms of oxygen. Two atoms of oxygen form the basic oxygen molecule--the oxygen we breathe that is essential to life. The third oxygen atom can detach from the ozone molecule, and re-attach to molecules of other substances, thereby altering their chemical composition. The words 're-attach and altering their chemical composition' would scare me enough to advise you to consider an alternate method of air filtration. I wouldn't rely on recommendations from the Chinese or the EPA.

What do you consider a high gas bill? About 8 years ago, I owned an 1911 two storey that was costing me over $400 in gas per month for heat and domestic. My highest gas bill in the past two years was in Jan 08 for a total of $90.00.

The reason I asked is that some folks run the main blower 24/7 (I do in the dead of winter). In this case the humidifier is also working 24/7. The humidifier is not really working, it's only energized when the blower comes on and waiting for a call from the humidistat. The blower and hum have to be interlocked otherwise the hum would run continuously and cause damage to the furnace by dumping moisture inside the plenum.

The humidifier That would be my concern too. Do we have anybody here that could shed some light on this subject? They make it sound like the ozone lives inside the plenum and somehow magically transforms itself into a 'friendly' after it leaves the system. The idea of it being approved by the Chinese govt is questionable at best.

Interesting looking hum. Would you have more info on it, brand name etc? Is it a bypass model? I like the double check valve idea and I'm guessing you're pre-filtering the supply. Another question if I may, is the unit on the supply plenum? Is +/- 25% too high, you think? I get that question from first time buyers and I tell them it's like marriage, a matter of keeping everybody happy. It's a game of keeping the ratio nose to window in equilibrium. Too dry - the nose is unhappy (window happy) Too wet - the window unhappy (nose happy) Balanced - the window and nose are happy. As far as those meaningless numbers.....I ignore them.

The short answer is that you need a thermocouple and to a lesser degree recalibration or new board. Here is the long answer The sequencing is controlled by a computer that starts out with a call for heat. I'm assuming your thermostat fan switch is set on AUTO and is not affecting the operation of the blower. The inducer fan turns on to proof the vent or make the pressure switch happy. That ensures the vent is unobstructed and clear for service. A signal is sent to authorize ignition but if the pilot light is off the gas valve will not open and the sequence should be terminated. On a hot surface igniter system the valve opens BUT if the flame rectification on the opposite side of the ignition point doesn't sense heat it will shut down the gas valve. The system will attempt ignition three times then shut down. To reset it, turn the appliance switch off then on again. Your standing pilot system may not have this sophistication built in or the puter is confused .....who knows. Quote "(presumably due to the lack of the gas valve being opened with no pilot)" On a pilot system the gas valve will not open unless the thermocouple is happy and has no effect on the blower. The blower is activated by heat limit sensors which have nothing to do with the proofing process. Having said all that, I've observed both fan and blower come on at the same time and I'm thinking someone tinkered with the programming at some point in the developmental stage, or the program is faulty or corrupted. Regardless, you have a no heat potential and the system should be serviced. I would replace the thermocouple ASAP. I would defer replacing the board, it will cost you more than the value of the appliance . Hope this answers your question.

Again this is where reason and experience are more valuable than codes sorry for swearing, and installation instructions. Anticipated snow load is practically meaningless unless you factor in the vent location, wind speed and effect of surrounding structures. For instance 12 inches might work on the windward side of a building but not so great on the leeward side. Download Attachment: HeatingBoilerVentWinter2 (Medium).jpg 46.48 KB And if that's not bad enough the 'frost of ill repute' will get you, usually in the middle of the night and freeze up your intake. But then that wasn't your question.

Perhaps a second generation super high efficiency ice melt system.[:-graduat I'm beginning to understand why some of you carry guns....lol

Do you have a model number?

Why? The first thing that comes to mind is vehicular impact and passenger damage to the system. The unit could have been installed higher and over to the left (left of the support pilaster/column) where it could have vented at the gable side of the house and not garage eaves. A concentric vent termination kit could have been added. I don’t see purple on the white vent. By placing the unit higher he could have saved on elbows. The oversized, roller coaster primary and secondary loops tell me that he got lost midway in the process. The job could have occupied 1/3 the space. I don’t see a readily accessible gas shut off. It could be hiding at the top of the unit; nonetheless, I like to see it at eye level. The expansion tank is supported by the SPIROVENT and attached tubing. The tank should be supported to avoid undue stress on the controls. The copper is supported with what looks like galvanized strapping (can’t tell from the photo). The bottom horizontal lines (to the bottom left side of the unit) look unsupported. The appliance needs isolation valves on both supply and return. The location of the return isolation valve is too far from the appliance to be of any use. The valve for the top vent at the primary loop appears closed. (Actually it is closed and begs the question: Why?) His electrical controls are scattered all over the wall not to mention the workmanship and unsupported BX. The hidden switch is a nice touch Questions: How much area does the system service? Is the single loop sufficient? Did you observe an outside sensor? Is the system glycol protected? Do we need a double check valve at the supply? Why do we need two secondary pumps? Where does the red line, next to the gas line terminate?

The whole installation is goofy...

Two thermistor housings, either for a boiler, equipment that requires exterior temperature input or possibly for an outside temperature display at the thermostat. Not sure why they'd use two, there is plenty of room to accommodate more than one sensor. Did the home have a boiler? Next time you see one, unscrew the center screw cover and have a look inside.

Marc You've made a good observation but the furnace in question is a draft induced exhaust system. Download Attachment: FurnaceTypes (Medium).JPG 96.14 KB Although I would agree by the presence of the fan, that a slight positive pressure exists at the outlet side (flue connector), the flue itself is considered at atmospheric pressure. That's the reason we can combine natural draft appliances with draft induced ones. Forced draft fans push air through the furnace while induced draft fans pull. All gas burning appliances require a correctly sized vent as previously stated but sometimes that may not be enough. As Darren mentioned, it's location is equally important. Here is a recent inspection. This is a two storey built in 2006 with the vent located on an outside wall. Download Attachment: HeatingVentCorrosion1 (Medium).jpg 86.49 KB Download Attachment: HeatingVentCorrosion2 (Medium).jpg 43.71 KB How do you fix this?! ... Move the vent. I'll be inspecting for these folks on Monday, I suspect the vendor didn't like my solution.

Isihi This has nothing to do with winning. You asked a reasonable question and hopefully got a reasonable answer, nothing more. If you chose to disregard it or don’t’ think it’s relevant to your style of inspecting, then that’s fine too. As I see it, you’re the winner, for now you have the answer to your question, reasonably priced, I might add. Don't give up .... just yet Rob

You mean this chart? Chemical Compatibility Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is compatible with the following materials: * Water (Regular White) * Steam (Premium Pink) * Air, compressed (Premium Grade) * Alcohols (Premium Grade) * Fatty Acids (Premium Grade) * Kerosene (UL Yellow Gas) * Natural Gas (UL Yellow Gas) * Nitrogen (UL Yellow Gas) * Acids, dilute (Premium Grade) * Ammonia, liquid (Premium Grade) * Cutting Oils (Premium Grade) * Soap, Liquid (Premium Grade) * Ethylene glycol (Premium Grade) * Gasohol (UL Yellow Gas) * LPG (Premium Oxygen)

Rob, I'm not doubting your knowledge or your experience with this stuff, but when you say white joint tape is not allowed on gas lines are you talking about the manufacturers specs or is it code? What about this stuff? http://www.sealtape.com/ptfe_hdwhite.html Its description sums it up. "It is widely used by plumbers for General Water Plumbing applications." Also have a look at the compatibility chart bottom right corner. Different applications require specific thread sealing tape designed for that purpose. Look around the site, you'll understand what I mean. Bottom line, not all tapes are equal. The white tape, regardless of thickness, is not designed for hydrocarbons, if you have natural gas you need to use the correct tape (UL Yellow Gas). Back to the original question: "Am I missing something or is he making this up?" He's not making up anything. He recognized the white tape but failed to explain why it was wrong. I wouldn't fault him for that.

Consult a competent and licensed gas fitter to make the necessary repairs. It's not my function to recommend a method of repair and I don't want the liability. Now, if you ask me off the record, what do you think I'd tell my client? The yellow tape was developed for a reason, mainly because it was found that overtime the white tape deteriorated when exposed to hydrocarbons. That's not to say that it will leak in the future but rather there is a chance that it might fail and for that reason I make a note of it in my report.

There are several seal compounds on the market and the one I use is Jet-Lube No. 60, it's non hardening. Its function is to cool, lubricate and seal a threaded pipe joint without galling and minimizes stripping, it also has an anti-rust additive. When I work with my gas fitter, he insists I tape AND dope all joints. At the risk of repeating myself; the white joint tape is NOT allowed on gas lines. Also be careful, over time the yellow tape will fade and turn white or light yellow that could be mistaken under certain lighting conditions.

It's a good catch on the inspector's part but his reasoning is flawed and confused. There is nothing illegal about white teflon tape, it's not designed for gas piping. Pipe joint tape comes in different colors such as white, rose (pink) or yellow. Each have a different application. Personally I use the white for finish work and pink for boilers, irrigation, or rough work where the joint is not visible; the tape is thicker. The yellow is known as Gas-Tape, and is designed to resist petroleum degradation. Here is how the specs read on the spool. For use on threaded metal pipe joints (not exceeding nominal pipe size 3) in assemblies handling natural gas and methane propane and butane and petroleum distillates (pressures not exceeding 15,514 kPa (2,250 psi) In so far as his statement regarding the shredding and possible blockage of valves, that's an installation issue, regardless of color, that doesn't apply to the concern at hand. "......you should have this condition evaluated by a licensed plumber-water heater supply line." There is nothing to evaluate, consult a competent and licensed gas fitter to correct this installation....Overtime the affected joints may fail and leak gas and go BOOM and you might never see your dog again......etc.[:-monkeyd Technically it's known as Thread Sealing Tape.

Are you sure that alarm is not a CO Detector? Smoke alarms detect smoke not heat.

Ok, did you push up the third row to look under the tile? The first two rows are generally nailed. Whenever you inspect a tile roof it's imperative to look underneath it to at least identify the underlayment and its condition. With the absence of counter strapping you could have quite a mess.

Ok, that would worry me... Did you walk the roof and look at the underlayment, strapping and counter strapping? 81', you might not have counter strapping and that would have it's own negative implications.

Did you look at the roof from this angle? Download Attachment: RoofingConcFascia (Medium).jpg 48.56 KB If so, there is no need to call for repair.

The most layers I've seen is 4, one more than the allowable according to our code. If what you say is correct "...but there is about 2 inches of shingles at cut-outs for the turbine vents in the attic." then there might very well be 8 layers (1/4" per layer x although I find it difficult to believe. An average asphalt shingle roof weighs between 210psq. and 235psq. (100 sq feet) or 2.1psf. and 2.35psf. If you add the 8 layers, between 16.8 and 18.8sqf. to your design snow load you'll find you're well over your maximum allowable. I'd make my client aware that once the roof is relieved it could spring back and cause interior cracking. Next time you're over, take a close up picture of the turbine.

More words of wisdom http://www.naplesnews.com/news/2009/jul ... /?banner=1 "A veteran home inspector" now that's funny